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2 screws loose when putting neck on

Jack Butler

Jack Butler

Supporting Member
Jul 2, 2012
3,034
2,728
Washington DC
#1
Just put a jazz neck on P body. 2 of the screws tightened as expected, 2 when all the way down still spin when I turn with a screwdriver. My first 2 non-luthier thoughts...
Get slightly larger screws
or
Put some wood glue or wood filler in the holes first. If I went with this option, is it better to screw the neck on while the glue is wet, or let it dry first and then attach neck?
Thanks for any advice
 
#2
Probably the best bet is getting a hardwood dowel that is about the same size and gluing that into the holes and re-drilling. This would keep the neck to body joint rock solid.
 
#4
Lownote38 said:
I've used toothpicks (one or two in each of the holes that are too large) and wood glue to hold them in. Once dry, I put it all back together. This method has always worked perfectly for me.
Click to expand...

I've used the toothpick method on stripped strap button screw holes many times. Actually, I've done it without the glue, and it still worked fine!

For neck bolt holes it might be good to cut some slivers off a board, wider than a toothpick. Just spitballin' here; never had one of those strip.
 
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#6
Kevin aka Kebo said:
Easiest fix - Tooth Picks, plain and simple.. DO NOT redrill and go larger..
Click to expand...

This is true. Do make sure the holes in the body allow the screws to pass freely. Jam a bunch of glue-drenched toothpicks into the questionable screwholes and trim flush. Immediately put the neck into position and re-introduce the screws while the glue is still wet. If you really wanna go gangbusters, consider adding threaded inserts.

Riis
 
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#7
Zooberwerx said:
This is true. Do make sure the holes in the body allow the screws to pass freely. Jam a bunch of glue-drenched toothpicks into the questionable screwholes and trim flush. Immediately put the neck into position and re-introduce the screws while the glue is still wet. If you really wanna go gangbusters, consider adding threaded inserts.

Riis
Click to expand...
But don't glue the neck to the body! Careful with overflow.

If you were to drill it out, it would be stupid to put in a wooden plug. Waste. ... Of..... Time. Threaded inserts is the only answer if you are going to take the power tools out of the closet.
 
#8
Toothpick method without glue works for me all the time. Especially if you have medium-dense ones where they won't disintegrate as soon as you screw into them but sturdy enough to "replace" the stripped screw holes. I can handle pickguard or control plate screw holes being stripped, but I fear that one day my neck/body joint screwholes will be stripped.
 
#9
Few things - DO NOT and i REPEAT do not use threaded inserts. The tension needed will pull the inset right out of the neck. Glue, you don t need it. And as stated dont glue the neck to the body, better, put the glue bottle down and step away from the neck pocket..
 
#10
96tbird said:
But don't glue the neck to the body! Careful with overflow.

If you were to drill it out, it would be stupid to put in a wooden plug. Waste. ... Of..... Time. Threaded inserts is the only answer if you are going to take the power tools out of the closet.
Click to expand...

Don't I get bonus points for unintentionally creating a set-neck situation? Best way to avoid that is to plug the screwholes (heel of neck) with toothpicks & glue (...essential!) and re-introduce the screws while the neck is off the bass. Wait a day, remove the screws from the neck heel, and re-attach the components as you would normally.

Riis
 
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#11
Kevin aka Kebo said:
Few things - DO NOT and i REPEAT do not use threaded inserts. The tension needed will pull the inset right out of the neck. Glue, you don t need it. And as stated dont glue the neck to the body, better, put the glue bottle down and step away from the neck pocket..
Click to expand...

Uhhh, What? Threaded inserts work great
 
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#13
Hopkins said:
You answered your own question in the OP, just use a slightly wider screw and be done with it. If it has a #8 screw use a #10. You don't have to re drill any holes, just screw the new screw into the same hole. Sometimes threads in this forum can get overly complicated really fast.
Click to expand...

Consideration: you may have to widen the hole through the body pocket so the screw will pass freely. Don't forget to wax the threads.

Riis
 
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#14
Hopkins said:
You answered your own question in the OP, just use a slightly wider screw and be done with it. If it has a #8 screw use a #10. You don't have to re drill any holes, just screw the new screw into the same hole. Sometimes threads in this forum can get overly complicated really fast.
Click to expand...

While this solution certainly will fix the problem, it falls under the heading of treating the symptoms rather than the disease.

The damage is to the screw threads in the neck. That is where the repair effort should be focused. The existing screws are fine. They do not need to be fixed or changed.

Another consideration is that the shaft of the larger screw will require a slightly enlarged hole for safeties sake. This is a special consideration for a hardwood like maple. That requires counterboring the existing holes, albeit probably only a small fraction of an inch. It is not a big deal. Still, it is another task, hauling out some extra tools for a minutes worth of work.

For whatever reason, at a later date another tech may have to replace one of the over-sized screws. After removing the screw and obtaining a proper replacement from the bin, he observes that the hole is too large (or insert appropriate metaphor or simile) for the screw to obtain purchase on the threads. Certainly the tech will utter a few oaths, maybe discussing one's parentage or perhaps directions for an unplanned trip, when this fact is discovered.

Respectfully submitted.
 
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#16
Hopkins said:
You answered your own question in the OP, just use a slightly wider screw and be done with it. If it has a #8 screw use a #10. You don't have to re drill any holes, just screw the new screw into the same hole. Sometimes threads in this forum can get overly complicated really fast.
Click to expand...
If you swap a #10 for a #8 it won't sit flush on the back. You'll need to re countersink the backing plate which will probably entail removing chrome and inviting corrosion. The simplest method is to fill the holes with glue laden toothpicks and then saw them flush when the glue sets. If you're worried about a little glue leakage permanently gluing your neck to the body then just lay a little wax down on the neck and neck pocket. The glue won't attach to the neck and neck pocket then.
 
#17
Kevin aka Kebo said:
Respectfully - your information is incorrect on BOTH threaded inserts and larger screw size and can A) Be detrimental to the instrument B) Depending on the instrument, result in SIGNIFICANT devaluation.
Click to expand...

So the proper installation of inserts or oversize screws can be detrimental? How so?

Devaluing the instrument? Why would a functioning bass with inserts be worth less than a bass rendered unplayable due to a neck ruined by two stripped screw holes?
 
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#18
A bass with oversized screws is a red flag. And done correctly it's way more work than the simple fix that works.

The screw wasn't the problem. Address the problem. This is like changing an undamaged wheel because you had a flat.
 
#19
Kevin aka Kebo said:
Respectfully - your information is incorrect on BOTH threaded inserts and larger screw size and can A) Be detrimental to the instrument B) Depending on the instrument, result in SIGNIFICANT devaluation.
Click to expand...

No it was not, I have seen varying screw sizes used on different neck from the factory, it is very well possible that the neck he is using simply has larger screw holes than the one that was on his previous body. Secondly, hundreds of people on this forum myself included have used threaded inserts for neck installation. You are the only person I have ever heard say they do not work.
 
#20
Jack Butler said:
Just put a jazz neck on P body. 2 of the screws tightened as expected, 2 when all the way down still spin when I turn with a screwdriver. My first 2 non-luthier thoughts...
Get slightly larger screws
or
Put some wood glue or wood filler in the holes first. If I went with this option, is it better to screw the neck on while the glue is wet, or let it dry first and then attach neck?
Thanks for any advice
Click to expand...

I had a bass like that. I put in some slightly larger screws and everything was fine.
 

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