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2013 Ampeg V-4B 100W Reissue Pt2

#2,162
Hey, know what's cruel? FedEx delivering the V4B 25 minutes before I had to take a work conference call in my home office. That was long enough, though, to play for a few minutes and feel very happy. Also pleased that the V4B, though wide by three inches on either side while sitting atop my Bergantino CN112x2 stack, fits nicely nevertheless: The feet sit almost flush against the sides of the cabs.
 
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#2,163
soxhats said:
Hey, know what's cruel? FedEx delivering the V4B 25 minutes before I had to take a work conference call in my home office. That was long enough, though, to play for a few minutes and feel very happy. Also pleased that the V4B, though wide by three inches on either side while sitting atop my Bergantino CN112x2 stack, fits nicely nevertheless: The feet sit almost flush against the sides of the cabs.
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Congratulations on the new amp.


I don't always stack the head on the cab. I can't lift anything anymore. So matching the head and cab isn't a problem.

If the foot position turns out to be a problem, you can buy a piece of ¾" ply that is the same size as the heads cabinet to put between the head and the cab.
 
#2,165
soxhats said:
Hey, know what's cruel? FedEx delivering the V4B 25 minutes before I had to take a work conference call in my home office. That was long enough, though, to play for a few minutes and feel very happy. Also pleased that the V4B, though wide by three inches on either side while sitting atop my Bergantino CN112x2 stack, fits nicely nevertheless: The feet sit almost flush against the sides of the cabs.
Click to expand...

Crueler yet would be it's arrival 10 minutes before leaving for work. ;)

Is the Berg cab. square? The NV115 can be turned on it's side (there are rubber feet there also) and it's a perfect fit; whereas, face up there is a similar overhang. Oh wait a minute, you have two 112's; I was thinking one 212 cab.
 
#2,166
soxhats said:
Am I assuming correctly that there's nothing inherently wrong (i.e. potentially damaging) about placing the amp flush on top of the cab?
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I had a tech tell me you shouldn't do that. The V4b has the rubber feet that absorb the vibration the cabs produce. But if they're hanging off the edge of the cab, they're obviously not doing any good. I don't know how significant of a risk this really is though...
 
#2,167
soxhats said:
Am I assuming correctly that there's nothing inherently wrong (i.e. potentially damaging) about placing the amp flush on top of the cab?
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You can do that if there is no metal such as a corner of handle making contact.

The feet mostly serve to protect the tolex from being scratched if the amp gets slid around when placing it on the speaker cab. In this case, the feet are hard so they are not absorbing vibrations. On amps with soft rubber feet they do absorb vibrations. A properly designed cab should not vibrate. Some do though.
 
#2,170
Alexander said:
Hmmm - I thought I read somewhere the V4B's feet absorbed vibration. Maybe that was for my Super Bassman. I'm pretty sure all the cabs I've owned vibrate...
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Perhaps we are caught up in semantics. All cabs vibrate to some extent but usually not enough to affect an amp. If a cab is not braced properly, it will vibrate more than is desired.

Feel the feet on your V4B and see how hard they are.
 
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#2,172
Tonight's rig. V4B / SVT810E

20150314_165935_zpsj8xsahhd.jpg
Would like to use it at tomorrow nights gig too but it's up 2 flights of stairs
 
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#2,174
Well I picked up my new v4b yesterday ... and 3 hours later it went back, it has the infamous "rattle". Not to worry the dealer is getting me a new one (fingers crossed). I never considered myself an Ampeg guy but I now have the V4b, an SVT 350h (used with a VT Bass pedal) and a R12R Reverbrocket guitar amp. It was interesting doing an A/B between the V4b and my restored 1968 Sunn 200s!
 
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#2,176
Yeah got my fingers crossed ... My 200s is running about 75 watts even with a tube rectifier, has more bottom and top end, and more note detail with clean notes up to about 1 O clock. The V4b has more mids, a DI and is more "forgiving" to the player. All in all I consider it a keeper if we can get one without chassis rattle.
 
#2,177
I've been considering one of these for a while, but feel the new price is a little too high here in Canada (about $1775 including tax in NB).
A VT-22 popped up for sale near here for pretty cheap. Is it more or less the same except in combo form with slightly different EQ points?
I'm considering buying it and converting it to a head. Are there decent quality 7027, 6GC7 and 12DW7 tubes available these days?
This combo has white rocker switches. Does that give a decent clue to year of manufacture?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
 
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#2,179
EQ points are the same, coupling caps and switching options are different. I have a V4 head and I've done the V4B coupling cap conversion, not a huge difference.

76-79 is a fine era, the regular V4/V4B didn't change much I don't think, but there was also a distortion model that was quite a different circuit.

I'm not really on board with new production 7027As or 12DW7s. Sovtek/EHX/New Sensor and JJ are both making them. I don't think anyone is making new production 6CG7s? Invalid Link Removed I've tried the 12DW7s from both and went back to old stock, they're still pretty cheap considering what a new production 12DW7 costs (Invalid Link Removed4). I have a few spares plus what are in my SVT and V4. I think I end up buying another one for the stockpile every time I'm reminded that they're still fairly cheap at AES. 7027As are a different story. The sovteks I had didn't last long at all. I've seen a lot of complaints about JJs. I have three sets of 7027As for my V4, the sylvannias in it, a backup set of sylvannias, and a matched set of mixed production stuff. I should be good for a while. I've heard of people having good luck with the new tung-sol reissue 7581As in their vintage V4s, the plate voltage rating is still lower than a 7027A should be, but if they work then that's an option. A tech friend of mine also recommended moving the standby junction in the amp to prevent the big inrush you get when it is first flipped off standby and save some wear and tear on new production tubes. I haven't tried it but I have his notes somewhere in my files. Anyways, this was a longwinded way of saying that I wouldn't put my money on new production at this time.

Considering all the tube factors, the need for a cap job on a vintage amp if it hasn't been done, other potential maintenance and/or reliability issues, the added DI on the new amps, etc, etc, it might be worth it to spring for the modern version if you can work it in your budget.
 
#2,180
I do not regret making the switch to the reissue V4B - due to many of the things Corey mentioned.

Mainly I had some trouble with the JJ 7027's failing. I also like that the reissue is smaller and lighter.

I got lucky and was able to do a straight trade though - I got my "new" reissue on Guitar Center's used website for about $800 USd. Someone won it in a contest and traded it right in on a bass that they had been wanting (IIRC).

To pay for it, I sold my vintage one for about the same price - it was in excellent condition.
 
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