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2013 Ampeg V-4B 100W Reissue Pt2

#2,181
coreyfyfe said:
EQ points are the same, coupling caps and switching options are different. I have a V4 head and I've done the V4B coupling cap conversion, not a huge difference.

76-79 is a fine era, the regular V4/V4B didn't change much I don't think, but there was also a distortion model that was quite a different circuit.

I'm not really on board with new production 7027As or 12DW7s. Sovtek/EHX/New Sensor and JJ are both making them. I don't think anyone is making new production 6CG7s? Invalid Link Removed I've tried the 12DW7s from both and went back to old stock, they're still pretty cheap considering what a new production 12DW7 costs (Invalid Link Removed4). I have a few spares plus what are in my SVT and V4. I think I end up buying another one for the stockpile every time I'm reminded that they're still fairly cheap at AES. 7027As are a different story. The sovteks I had didn't last long at all. I've seen a lot of complaints about JJs. I have three sets of 7027As for my V4, the sylvannias in it, a backup set of sylvannias, and a matched set of mixed production stuff. I should be good for a while. I've heard of people having good luck with the new tung-sol reissue 7581As in their vintage V4s, the plate voltage rating is still lower than a 7027A should be, but if they work then that's an option. A tech friend of mine also recommended moving the standby junction in the amp to prevent the big inrush you get when it is first flipped off standby and save some wear and tear on new production tubes. I haven't tried it but I have his notes somewhere in my files. Anyways, this was a longwinded way of saying that I wouldn't put my money on new production at this time.

Considering all the tube factors, the need for a cap job on a vintage amp if it hasn't been done, other potential maintenance and/or reliability issues, the added DI on the new amps, etc, etc, it might be worth it to spring for the modern version if you can work it in your budget.
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Thanks for the reply. I think I may have gotten too excited too quick. Rereading the ad, I think this person may be LOOKING for one (at what may be an overly optimistic price), but his ad really isn't clear.

I'm still looking for a used V4B reissue, but these things aren't too common still. There are always a few on the classifieds, but it's not worth it to bring into Canada by the time I add the exchange rate and pay 13% sales tax at the border (yes, we have to pay tax on used items). I can afford a new one, but prefer to buy everything used.
 
#2,182
Eric_Allard said:
Thanks for the reply. I think I may have gotten too excited too quick. Rereading the ad, I think this person may be LOOKING for one (at what may be an overly optimistic price), but his ad really isn't clear.

I'm still looking for a used V4B reissue, but these things aren't too common still. There are always a few on the classifieds, but it's not worth it to bring into Canada by the time I add the exchange rate and pay 13% sales tax at the border (yes, we have to pay tax on used items). I can afford a new one, but prefer to buy everything used.
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Guitar Center has a used one right now ($899 USd) - I don't know what their policy is regarding sales to Canada though.
 
#2,183
Bass 45 said:
Guitar Center has a used one right now ($899 USd) - I don't know what their policy is regarding sales to Canada though.
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Thanks for looking that up.
With the exchange rate and tax (not even considering shipping), that works out to about 80% of the cost of a new one... Not worth it. If I'm paying that much, I may as well pay the other 20% and get a warranty. I found a used one on Kijiji for a fair price ($1000 CAD), but it's too far and the seller is not willing to ship.
It's not like I "need" another amp, but I've been craving for some of the Ampeg tube sound in my current band.
I'll keep my eyes peeled and something good will show up eventually.
 
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#2,184
Eric_Allard said:
Thanks for the reply. I think I may have gotten too excited too quick. Rereading the ad, I think this person may be LOOKING for one (at what may be an overly optimistic price), but his ad really isn't clear.
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Got a reply from the seller. He is indeed SELLING the VT-22. He is asking $500 CAD. Apparently, it all works as expected so I probably can't go wrong. Even after spending money on the parts for a complete overhaul,I can probably recoup my money if I don't like it.
I have read that some people have had success converting these to 6550 out KT88 power tubes. That would solve the problem with the availability of 7027A's, but can the power transformer take the extra current draw of those tubes?
 
#2,185
I had a V4 with the 6550 conversion and now one with the 7027As. The power transformer got noticeably hotter on the 6550 amp. Whether that will be a problem long term I won't know but it's definitely something to keep in mind.

Personally I'd keep it with the stock tubes and try new production 7027A or 7581A tubes before I converted to 6550s.
 
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#2,186
Eric_Allard said:
Got a reply from the seller. He is indeed SELLING the VT-22. He is asking $500 CAD. Apparently, it all works as expected so I probably can't go wrong. Even after spending money on the parts for a complete overhaul,I can probably recoup my money if I don't like it.
I have read that some people have had success converting these to 6550 out KT88 power tubes. That would solve the problem with the availability of 7027A's, but can the power transformer take the extra current draw of those tubes?
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I think the late '70's models had beefier transformers and 6550 conversion was a factory option. Somewhere I have a late '70's catalog that explains this and mentions the power rising to about 125 watts IIRC.
 
#2,190
Fliptops sells drop in cap can replacements, but again getting shipping to Canada might be an issue. I think the whole cap kit for my amp was $140. You can probably find them cheaper if you shop around, I went for all in one place shopping.
 
#2,191
Bass 45 said:
I think the late '70's models had beefier transformers and 6550 conversion was a factory option. Somewhere I have a late '70's catalog that explains this and mentions the power rising to about 125 watts IIRC.
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Yes, 6550's were available as an upgrade. See "optional equipment" for the performance kit.

V4_brochure_3.jpg
 
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#2,192
Eric_Allard said:
I'll have to decide whether I want to restore the old one and convert it to a head or buy a new reissue. With all of the oddball multi-capacitor cans and obsolete tubes, restoring it may get pretty pricey pretty quick depending on what it needs.
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The tubes are not really an issue. The 6K11 is the only one not available as a reissue. Buy a few and you have a lifetime supply. There are also substitutes available. No problem re-caping these amps. Often you find that people use three cap cans and one stand alone cap.

Vintage amps usually come with issues. It is true, costs can get out of hand quickly when you are restoring an amp, especially if you are not doing the work yourself. It is usually less expensive if you were to buy a reissue.

It's hard to know what you are getting till you buy the amp and take a look inside. I've come across more than one V4 that was mangled by well intentioned service people. One seller was so proud of the work that he did. Turns out there were multiple lifted pads from using too much heat, the power supply caps were wired incorrectly, bad solder joints, etc. I prefer all original condition amps but those are hard to find. One that's been properly serviced is the next best thing.

If you buy a used amp in a private sale it is about the only way to avoid tax. Buy a used amp from a store and you are stuck with tax just like a new one.
 
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#2,194
I would up checking out that VT-22 and had to bring it home. It's not the most desirable vintage (speaker codes put it at 77), but it's super clean. There's barely any scratches on the front panel. The Tolex is almost perfect (not that it matters since I'll be building a head can for the chassis). It still has the original Magnavox tubes and they're very strong. I don't think it's seen a soldering iron since it left the factory, but there's zero hum, hiss, crackling, buzzing, etc.
I played it briefly through a bass cabinet and it sounded very good. I'm not going to have time to go through it for a little while, but it should be a fun winter project.
My first instinct with an old amp is to replace electrolytic capacitors, but I hesitate to touch this one just yet. Am I gambling with the tubes and/or transformers?
Owner was a guitarist who was infatuated with his 1 watt Marshall so this thing clearly wasn't doing it for him.
One more question: wouldn't the polarity switch be gone by 77? Maybe the speakers were replaced, but they appear to be the correct ones.
 
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#2,195
Polarity switch was still there, it swaps the polarity of the line filter so it still has function. They still include them on the modern amps as well.

If it sounds good, voltages are stable, and isn't giving you problems then I wouldn't rush to do a cap job, just keep in mind that it will be on your horizon.
 
#2,196
Eric_Allard said:
I would up checking out that VT-22 and had to bring it home. It's not the most desirable vintage (speaker codes put it at 77), but it's super clean. There's barely any scratches on the front panel. The Tolex is almost perfect (not that it matters since I'll be building a head can for the chassis). It still has the original Magnavox tubes and they're very strong. I don't think it's seen a soldering iron since it left the factory, but there's zero hum, hiss, crackling, buzzing, etc.
I played it briefly through a bass cabinet and it sounded very good. I'm not going to have time to go through it for a little while, but it should be a fun winter project.
My first instinct with an old amp is to replace electrolytic capacitors, but I hesitate to touch this one just yet. Am I gambling with the tubes and/or transformers?
Owner was a guitarist who was infatuated with his 1 watt Marshall so this thing clearly wasn't doing it for him.
One more question: wouldn't the polarity switch be gone by 77? Maybe the speakers were replaced, but they appear to be the correct ones.
Click to expand...

If the amp sounds good, it is good. If the amp has been sitting for a long time, the power supply caps would have degraded. A tech can tell you what kind of shape it is in and it is good to have it checked out if you are not doing it yourself. If you do take it in for servicing, document with images what tubes you have in the amp. Some places have been known to swap them out with lesser quality.

A lot of revisions had the polarity switch. As I recall, in 76 with the distortion model, they had a circuit breaker instead of a fuse and no polarity switch.
 
#2,197
This one has a fuse, polarity switch, and master volume, but no distortion.

There was some markings on the front panel, but as it turned out, it was just sticker residue. A little naphtha cleaned it right off.

How do I take off the grill? There is some staining I would like to clean (not that it matters too much since I'll just store the cabinet).

It's my first Ampeg amp and I'm very impressed so far. Compared to Fender amps of a similar vintage, there's no comparison in build quality and attention to detail.
 
#2,198
Eric_Allard said:
This one has a fuse, polarity switch, and master volume, but no distortion.

There was some markings on the front panel, but as it turned out, it was just sticker residue. A little naphtha cleaned it right off.

How do I take off the grill? There is some staining I would like to clean (not that it matters too much since I'll just store the cabinet).

It's my first Ampeg amp and I'm very impressed so far. Compared to Fender amps of a similar vintage, there's no comparison in build quality and attention to detail.
Click to expand...

There are two screws on each side near the top. Remove those and you can slide the amp out the back. Then you have access to the inside of the cabinet.

Look for date codes on the pots, starting with 137. If the caps are original, there should be date codes on them. These will help you estimate when the amp was manufactured.

Perhaps this is your schematic.
 

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#2,199
beans-on-toast said:
There are two screws on each side near the top. Remove those and you can slide the amp out the back. Then you have access to the inside of the cabinet.

Look for date codes on the pots, starting with 137. If the caps are original, there should be date codes on them. These will help you estimate when the amp was manufactured.

Perhaps this is your schematic.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I'll check it out once I get a chance to open it up.
 
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