3-way Rotary Switch for Squier Bronco with Dual-Rail Pickup

[andare]

Hello everybody.

I have a Squier Bronco and I'm going to replace the stock single coil pickup with a Strat-sized dual-rail humbucker.

I still don't know if I'm going for a generic pickup from eBay, a Dimarzio or a Seymour Duncan but they all have 5 wires (2x start, 2x finish, 1x bare ground).

Just for the kicks I'd love to replace the tone pot, which I never use, with a 3-way rotary switch to have these options: 1 - series, 2- parallel, 3- split single coil (doesn't matter which coil since they're very thin). I only really need series and parallel but I haven't seen 2-way rotary switches so I might as well add another tone option.

What kind of rotary switch do I need? 3 position 4 pole? 3 position 2 pole?
Most importantly, how would I wire it up?

I already know how to wire up the hot and ground wires to the volume pot and output jack.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!

 

[ctmullins]

You can do series/single/parallel with an on/on/on mini switch too. Diagrams floating around the web. I did it years ago, which is when I learned that single beats parallel every day....

 

[NoiseNinja]

Know this is not answring your question, but I'd recommend the DiMarzio DP182 Fast Track 2 pickup.

 

[andare]

You can do series/single/parallel with an on/on/on mini switch too. Diagrams floating around the web. I did it years ago, which is when I learned that single beats parallel every day....

I know but I really want a rotary switch (w/a chickenhead knob of course) because it's cool

 

[andare]

Know this is not answring your question, but I'd recommend the DiMarzio DP182 Fast Track 2 pickup.

Yes I've been looking into those thanks. I've already tried an Artec dual-rail HB in the Bronco and it sounds muddy. I've gone back to the stock pickup for its clarity but it's very noisy and it has no bass.
How's the Fast Track 2? That's the low-output version of the Fast Track 1 iirc?

 

[NoiseNinja]

Yes I've been looking into those thanks. I've already tried an Artec dual-rail HB in the Bronco and it sounds muddy. I've gone back to the stock pickup for its clarity but it's very noisy and it has no bass.
How's the Fast Track 2? That's the low-output version of the Fast Track 1 iirc?

No, almost double the output and more bass, more mids and less treble, but giving your experience you mind find that muddy, the tonal profile according to DiMarzio's tone charge for the pickup would be close to that of the Model P P pickup.

Fast Track 2™ | DiMarzio

Compared to: Fast Track 1™ | DiMarzio

In fact they are so different I don't quite understand why they share the same name.

 

[andare]

No, almost double the output and more bass, more mids and less treble, but giving your experience you mind find that muddy, the tonal profile according to DiMarzio's tone charge for the pickup would be close to that of the Model P P pickup.

I see. Maybe a Fast Track 1 or pro Track would suit me better then.

 

[NoiseNinja]

I see. Maybe a Fast Track 1 or pro Track would suit me better then.

As far as I am concerned the definition lies in the mids, which means to avoid mud and get more clarity you would likely want a pickup with more mid frequency content than low frequency content, and a fair amount high frequency content, and you wouldn't want the pickup to be too hot either, though that would likely would make it work better in parrallel and coil tap mode.

 

[ctmullins]

You would need a two-pole rotary switch with three positions. You could use a switch with more poles, and just not use them. You could use a switch with more positions, but they would be surplus - maybe one could be a mute position?

I highly recommend the Wilde L45-S - loads of clarity with fullness! Edit: But they come with two-conductor wiring, so maybe not for you....

 

[andare]

You would need a two-pole rotary switch with three positions. You could use a switch with more poles, and just not use them. You could use a switch with more positions, but they would be surplus - maybe one could be a mute position?

I highly recommend the Wilde L45-S - loads of clarity with fullness! Edit: But they come with two-conductor wiring, so maybe not for you....

So if I understand correctly: the 2 poles are for the hot and ground wires that go to the volume pot and the 3 positions are for series/parallel/coil split. Is that correct?
2 pole 3 pos switches are hard to find so yes maybe I can add a kill position. Cool.

As for the pickup you recommended, I've heard of it but I'm in Poland so ordering from the US is expensive. I'm already getting reamed buying on eBay from other European countries, especially the UK where everything seems to be located.

 

[ctmullins]

Basically yes, one pole for hot and one for ground.

Here's Duncan's article: Guitar Wiring Explored - DPDT On-On-On Switch Wiring

Which contains this visual:

So then the task is to match that up to the connections on the rotary switch, which shouldn't be too hard.

 

[andare]

Basically yes, one pole for hot and one for ground.

Here's Duncan's article: Guitar Wiring Explored - DPDT On-On-On Switch Wiring

Which contains this visual: View attachment 4169775

So then the task is to match that up to the connections on the rotary switch, which shouldn't be too hard.

Thanks!

 

[Bodeeni]

I have a Dragonfire Strat Hotrail Pickup in my Bronco. It does the flatwound Pbass thing better than my Fender P. I am not sure you will get much out of the switching options, they will all be noisier which is why I went with the humbucker in the first place.

 

[andare]

I have a Dragonfire Strat Hotrail Pickup in my Bronco. It does the flatwound Pbass thing better than my Fender P. I am not sure you will get much out of the switching options, they will all be noisier which is why I went with the humbucker in the first place.

Thanks for chiming in.

I'm only considering humbuckers. Series and parallel are both hum cancelling, coil split obviously not but the only reason I'm considering it is because most rotary switches have at least 3 positions so why not add that option. Also the Bronco is the perfect candidate for goofy mods.

The Dragonfire pickup is not an option for me because I'm in Europe. Also at 80 bucks I might as well buy a Dimarzio or a SD, which are available at the same price minus the crazy shipping.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

Thanks for chiming in.

I'm only considering humbuckers. Series and parallel are both hum cancelling, coil split obviously not but the only reason I'm considering it is because most rotary switches have at least 3 positions so why not add that option. Also the Bronco is the perfect candidate for goofy mods.

The Dragonfire pickup is not an option for me because I'm in Europe. Also at 80 bucks I might as well buy a Dimarzio or a SD, which are available at the same price minus the crazy shipping.

Only parallel will be hum canceling. To buck the hum, one coil needs to be reversed. When you switch it from parallel to series, you reverse the wiring, therefore they aren't backwards anymore. They're both running the same way, and the hum canceling effect will be lost. Beefier though, with much more output. But most likely, it'll just be distorted and twice as honky. Which, humbuckers have a very honky sound as they are. Think of series mode like leaving your stingray flat, except cranking the mid knob full.

Oh, you'll need three positions. On/on/both on 6 nodes (at least for a toggle switch like I have. I've never wired a rotary switch, but it can't be much different. Maybe just another way to connect your constants I imagine. All switches do the same thing, take a constant and split it between different destinations.) Look up the nordstrand big man diagram for details on the switch wiring. It's the best one I've seen.

 

[andare]

Only parallel will be hum canceling. To buck the hum, one coil needs to be reversed. When you switch it from parallel to series, you reverse the wiring, therefore they aren't backwards anymore. They're both running the same way, and the hum canceling effect will be lost. Beefier though, with much more output. But most likely, it'll just be distorted and twice as honky. Which, humbuckers have a very honky sound as they are. Think of series mode like leaving your stingray flat, except cranking the mid knob full.

Oh, you'll need three positions. On/on/both on 6 nodes (at least for a toggle switch like I have. I've never wired a rotary switch, but it can't be much different. Maybe just another way to connect your constants I imagine. All switches do the same thing, take a constant and split it between different destinations.) Look up the nordstrand big man diagram for details on the switch wiring. It's the best one I've seen.

Humbuckers are two single coils next to each other, with reverse wind and reverse polarity. Therefore they are hum canceling both in series (north coil into south coil to output - this is the standard wiring) and in parallel (both coils going to output separately). They are also in phase with each other.

What you're thinking of is swapping the hot and ground wires on one coil, which reverses its direction. This means the two coils in a humbucker will now have the same wind but reverse polarity, so they will hum and they will be out of phase. I'm not aware of anyone doing this intentionally since the resulting sound will be extremely thin due to how close the coils are to each other. Much more common is putting two humbuckers out of phase (bridge and neck) a la Frank Zappa and Peter Green.

 

[JeezyMcNuggles]

Humbuckers are two single coils next to each other, with reverse wind and reverse polarity. Therefore they are hum canceling both in series (north coil into south coil to output - this is the standard wiring) and in parallel (both coils going to output separately). They are also in phase with each other.

What you're thinking of is swapping the hot and ground wires on one coil, which reverses its direction. This means the two coils in a humbucker will now have the same wind but reverse polarity, so they will hum and they will be out of phase. I'm not aware of anyone doing this intentionally since the resulting sound will be extremely thin due to how close the coils are to each other. Much more common is putting two humbuckers out of phase (bridge and neck) a la Frank Zappa and Peter Green.

So, you're putting an inline split in there then, right? Not a double coil humbucker? So, it will be wound in series to reverse the polarity and buck the hum. Just like a standard split. Correct?

Because a normal, tapable, double coil humbucker has one coil that is reverse wound, exactly like a jazz bass setup. That's why, when you tap it and give it options, series mode has increased output, increased mids, and parallel sounds like a stingray. But series defeats the bucking nature of the pickup, because the two coils are not wired together in the first place, and are designed to be wired in parallel. Having a series option, reverses polarity, and hums.

Regardless of any of the details, you'll only have a quiet pickup in one toggle option. Because the other options defeat the buck. But, that's all good. Whatever you wanna do. I myself like options. I have my Tele wired with two individual singles in the bridge. One reverse wound to create a humbucker when both coils are engaged. I can also select each coil individually. Front gives it a massive beefy jazz tone (more mids). Back coil has more high end (more like a 70's set up). Both coils, without the neck, sounds like a stingray. But, a little thinner because it's farther back. But eq fixes that right up.

 

[andare]

I don't think we're understanding each other here.

I'm going to use a humbucker. A humbucker is always hum canceling. It's actually made of two single coils and they can be wired in series or in parallel, which is accomplished by connecting the 4 wires in a couple of different ways. This doesn't change the polarity or the wind so it doesn't affect the hum canceling, which is always there.
Splitting the coil turns off one of the coils so then yes, you only have one active coil and it hums.
I have done this before so I know what I'm talking about.
What I don't know is how rotary switches work, hence this thread.

 

[Rabidhamster]

So, you're putting an inline split in there then, right? Not a double coil humbucker? So, it will be wound in series to reverse the polarity and buck the hum. Just like a standard split. Correct?

Because a normal, tapable, double coil humbucker has one coil that is reverse wound, exactly like a jazz bass setup. That's why, when you tap it and give it options, series mode has increased output, increased mids, and parallel sounds like a stingray. But defeats the bucking nature of the pickup.

Regardless of any of the details, you'll only have a quiet pickup in one toggle option. Because the other options defeat the buck. But, that's all good. Whatever you wanna do. I myself like options. I have my Tele wired with two individual singles in the bridge. One reverse wound to create a humbucker when both coils are engaged. I can also select each coil individually. Front gives it a massive beefy jazz tone (more mids). Back coil has more high end (more like a 70's set up). Both coils, without the neck, sounds like a stingray. But, a little thinner because it's farther back. But eq fixes that right up.View attachment 4170873

So a normal Humbucker bucks hum already.
it's already in series.
If you switch to parallel it still bucks hum.

If you split the coils, so you're only using one of the two, then if hums. But at no other time will it hum.

Tapping a coil means a point midway between a winding - even a single coil - you have to have pickups specially intended to do that.

Splitting a Humbucker and using only 1 coil is the only time the standard Humbucker stops bucking hum unless maybe you wired one coil backwards to defeat it. Heck you can even pair the opposite side of another split Humbucker to regain your hum cancelling.

 

[Rabidhamster]

I don't think we're understanding each other here.

I'm going to use a humbucker. A humbucker is always hum canceling. It's actually made of two single coils and they can be wired in series or in parallel, which is accomplished by connecting the 4 wires in a couple of different ways. This doesn't change the polarity or the wind so it doesn't affect the hum canceling, which is always there.
Splitting the coil turns off one of the coils so then yes, you only have one active coil and it hums.
I have done this before so I know what I'm talking about.
What I don't know is how rotary switches work, hence this thread.

I believe this will give you what you want, but it's designed for an amp so you'll have to cut off that positioning tab, and you'd need a chicken head with a set screw. Probably other options. Rotary switch wiring always gives me a headache, I have to sit and stare at it with a multimeter to eventually figure out what I'm doing. Gives me some kind of mental block I guess. I find it helps to imagine the switch in a straight line from turn direction.

https://www.tubesandmore.com/sites/default/files/associated_files/p-h395_specification_sheet.pdf