Musiclogic
Commercial User
- Aug 6, 2005
- 6,505
- 75
- 60
- Disclosures
- Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
3 Wood Challenge: Nomad98 Semi-hollow 4banger?
- Thread starter Nomad98
- Start date
4, BUT I would change the PG a bit. Maybe a bit... flickier?
Oh, and did the competition start on the 1st of June?
Oh, and did the competition start on the 1st of June?
Well it seems we are voting sorta which is all good! I am starting to lean towards building two basses. Option 1 and 4. Seems they are about evenly split on the feedback (vote) so why not give both a go (that's my way of trying to convince myself that this is a good idea)?
What does "a bit... flickier?" mean? I would consider it if I knew what you ment.
Phil (Nomad98)
What does "a bit... flickier?" mean? I would consider it if I knew what you ment.
Phil (Nomad98)
Yes, it started June 1st, as indicated by the parent thread ( http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/3-wood-build-challenge-887238/ ) posted on June 1st, and as stated several times in the original discussion thread.
Maybe he meant something like white pearl?
Ah... white pearl! I have started to warm up to the white pearl in the last year. A few years ago I would totally dismiss it as "too much". These days I really like it.
Even if "flickier" doesn't mean that, it's a great suggestion!
Even if "flickier" doesn't mean that, it's a great suggestion!
Nomad98 said:
Yes, I meant 'flickier' in two ways:
1) like White pearl as you've mentioned
2) are you familiar with the Gibson hummingbird? The scratchplate on that is 'flicky' due to the thin, pointed 'flicky' bits.
Hope that made sense!
Oh, and I'll start the 'sister build-off' on Friday. Good luck with the build!
SaintMez
Commercial User
- Jan 3, 2010
- 428
- 59
- Disclosures
- Blood Brothers Guitars - Luthier, Porter Guitars - Contractor
I love the idea of an 8-string "mudbucker" style bass, but I have wonder how the high content of the octave strings will come through a mudbucker pickup.
I wonder about that too. I have been thinking that the design will also have a bridge PUP weather its a 4 or eight/octave.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,030
- 1
- 31,770
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
Personally, I think it would be exceptionally lush. I have a four-string with an Artec mudbucker and Chromes, and it sounds like velvet. Adding the octave strings should just make it more velvety, I would think. I might try it one day.
.
I absolutely love option #3. Beautiful beastly yet classy design.
EDIT : With black block inlays
EDIT : With black block inlays
OPTION 1
It is clean, simple and elegant.
and
Option 1.1
Take the upper f-hole from Option 2 and put it on Option 1's upper bout, yet retaining the lower f-hole as is Asymmetric f-holes! Given the bridge choice, maybe Novac fanned frets?
It is clean, simple and elegant.
and
Option 1.1
Take the upper f-hole from Option 2 and put it on Option 1's upper bout, yet retaining the lower f-hole as is Asymmetric f-holes! Given the bridge choice, maybe Novac fanned frets?
There is a bit of progress but the saw dust was a small amount of MDF... the my bandsaw blade broke.
Here are picts so far:
Got the paper printout and it was cut up, MDF traced and body and neck templates were cut apart (then the blade broke).
I have the woods selected. The top and back are the book matched flame maple. The core is another slightly flamed maple piece and the neck/fingerboard will be birds eye maple. You can see the birds eye between the book matched top and I threw in a neck (w.i.p. for another project) that is made from the same birds eye so you can get an idea of where the neck will be going.
Closer shot.
I have always wanted a red burst bass with a nice top so this is my idea so far on the finish for the body. Also, I would like to try to do faux binding around the top and back.
The neck will just be left as is and the headstock face may match the color of the body? Still undecided on that.
And I guess if you haven't figured out which design I am going with you will have to use you keen sense of observation and/or powers of deductive reasoning.
As always...
Thanks for looking,
Phil (Nomad98)
Here are picts so far:
Got the paper printout and it was cut up, MDF traced and body and neck templates were cut apart (then the blade broke).
I have the woods selected. The top and back are the book matched flame maple. The core is another slightly flamed maple piece and the neck/fingerboard will be birds eye maple. You can see the birds eye between the book matched top and I threw in a neck (w.i.p. for another project) that is made from the same birds eye so you can get an idea of where the neck will be going.
Closer shot.
I have always wanted a red burst bass with a nice top so this is my idea so far on the finish for the body. Also, I would like to try to do faux binding around the top and back.
The neck will just be left as is and the headstock face may match the color of the body? Still undecided on that.
And I guess if you haven't figured out which design I am going with you will have to use you keen sense of observation and/or powers of deductive reasoning.
As always...
Thanks for looking,
Phil (Nomad98)
SaintMez
Commercial User
- Jan 3, 2010
- 428
- 59
- Disclosures
- Blood Brothers Guitars - Luthier, Porter Guitars - Contractor
Everyone has been working hard at this Challenge thing and I feel I have a little catchup work ahead of me. I have gotten some things done so on to the "show!"
First off, I got the MDF templates made. The picture has the 30 inch neck on it. I think I am leaning towards going 34 and I made a neck template for that as well. I still have as bit of time before I am locked into either, but I am a 34 guy so maybe I should not fool myself.
Next I routed out the chambers in the body core. It really is more of a faux hollow body or I guess that "semi-hollow" is the right way to put it.
The body is made in two halves. I spent a lot of time on the "F" holes. I want them to be almost finish sanded so I only have to sand the top surface of the body. It is a real pain to get a nice surface in the "F" holes when it is glued into the body core, so I do most the finish sanding before I glue the top halves to the core. Once the body halves have the tops and backs glued to them, I glue the body halves together.
I think I may contour the wood to the "F" holes. Nothing really deep, but just enough to catch some reflection and show a little depth (may change my mind in that but). The pencil lines off the top and bottom of the "F" holes indicate where the contours will go (you can see it better in the picture above).
I also have an annoying flaw in the top/back flamed maple (not the rectangle burn mark, the dark squiggly line near the center by the bridge area). The mark will hopefully be hidden by the bridge, or I may try to make a mute if I need to hide the flaw. The back has the same flaw... there I may put some little inlay, or I may learn to live with it. Time will tell but it's better to have options.
Thanks for looking...
Phil (Nomad98)
First off, I got the MDF templates made. The picture has the 30 inch neck on it. I think I am leaning towards going 34 and I made a neck template for that as well. I still have as bit of time before I am locked into either, but I am a 34 guy so maybe I should not fool myself.
Next I routed out the chambers in the body core. It really is more of a faux hollow body or I guess that "semi-hollow" is the right way to put it.
The body is made in two halves. I spent a lot of time on the "F" holes. I want them to be almost finish sanded so I only have to sand the top surface of the body. It is a real pain to get a nice surface in the "F" holes when it is glued into the body core, so I do most the finish sanding before I glue the top halves to the core. Once the body halves have the tops and backs glued to them, I glue the body halves together.
I think I may contour the wood to the "F" holes. Nothing really deep, but just enough to catch some reflection and show a little depth (may change my mind in that but). The pencil lines off the top and bottom of the "F" holes indicate where the contours will go (you can see it better in the picture above).
I also have an annoying flaw in the top/back flamed maple (not the rectangle burn mark, the dark squiggly line near the center by the bridge area). The mark will hopefully be hidden by the bridge, or I may try to make a mute if I need to hide the flaw. The back has the same flaw... there I may put some little inlay, or I may learn to live with it. Time will tell but it's better to have options.
Thanks for looking...
Phil (Nomad98)
