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300 Watts vs 200 Watts???

I'm trying to figure out what your last sentence means. What is a tidily mode and what has it got to do with simple circuits? Maybe I'm miss reading it?

Ps this same person has made some very high gain amps using the same methods and has not had serious issues.

Not saying that there is a problem with well designed PCB. I just don't see why point to point has to be inherently worse.

Auto corrected typo. Should have said 'made', now edited. Point to point is inherently worse as its the only build style that forces layout to be compromised to be built in that style. Layout is all of the art of making audio circuits. The circuits themselves are long established, quality components are jsut costs, laying it all out well is still a skill that needs to be applied. Also don't confuse gain and distortion.
 
PTP and turret board construction would raise the price point quite a bit. Peavey used PCBs in many of their huge and heavy amps for years, and those are rock solid, many have been in service for decades. My Demeter VTBPM800D uses PCBs, and Demeter is at the top of the heap regarding quality. There are wiring principles to observe also. Twisting wires coming from the power supply transformer. Crossing power B+ wires over heater wires at 90 degrees, etc., things like that. It can't be all willy nilly. But nothing wrong with using simple cable ties to bundle wires together if wiring principles allow such.
 
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Here's a list of their bass amps/cabs


"We have 2 bass heads currently, the Compass 300 watt all tube powerhouse. 8 6l6 loaded, as well as the Atlas 200 watt model t style head loaded with 4 kt88s. The compass is $1200 and the Atlas is $1100

Cabs:
2x10 - $450
4x10 - $650
6x10 - $850
1x15 - $400
2x15 - $750

(other cabinets can be made by request)"

Based on those claims, I would go with the KT88 loaded amp.

wouldn't 8 x 6L6's be more like 240w ? I understand that the tubes themselves are not the full picture as far as power ratings go, but I have always generally understood 6L6's to be "30w per tube" ...no?

This.
 
Amp power, speaker sensitivity, max spl and apparant sould volume are complex discussions. Adding one item doesn't necessarily make a lot more sound!

You have to double your power rating to increase only 3db Spl. So 200w to 300w isn't going to make a lot of difference. Only 1.5db, barely perceptable under peak loads. Which is a bit like going from 8-8.5 on your amp dial...not a lot. Most amp dials are in 3db increments. 3 db is the generally accepted minimum jump in dbs to be noticable. From 200w, you'll need 400w for a noticable increase or 800w for a larger increase. So that's the amp considerations...
Spealer cabs are not equal and some are more effiecient than others. A more efficient cab will often yield more dbs at a low amp power thus offering a higher over all SPL. But, most drivers meet an optimum level of power to spl quite early and they have a max spl (sound pressure level) at a lower wattage than their max wattage handling. So 300w into a single cab where the cab actually maxxes out it's SPL at say 150w isn't going to produce any more dbs for the exta 150w if it's powered by a maxxed out 300w amp. This loss can be recovered or untilised by adding a 2nd cab. They would share the load and combine their max spl's. Often allowing the full power rating across the drivers and keeping the drivers under their max spl / wattage level. This max spl / watt is unique for each model of driver and varies by quite a lot between brands and models.
So what I'm saying is that a 100w of extra amp power isn't going to add a lot of real world SPL across the same cab. But if you do go for the bigger head, get a 2nd cab to share the load. At 300w, there's not a lot of drivers which will actually deliver 300w of sound. Most max out at quite low power levels (I've seen alot of ratings in the 125-150w). Add a 2nd cab and you can use what is being wasted from your existing 200 watter and use the extra 100w of headroom.
So if you go for the 300 watter, seriously consider getting a 2nd cab to make use of the extra headroom. Two matched cabs usually add a further 3db becuase of the reduced load. So you will gain from three areas all combining in a higher SPL.

Not saying you've said anything others haven't, but I notice, as a point of curiosity, that when this matter of what constitutes a "noticeable" increase in loudness is discussed/laid out here, no one seems to include the point that the corresponding increases in wattage and sound power only strictly apply to increases in a single system...

i.e., 2x wattage increase in system A = ~3dB increase in system A

It is not necessarily the case, that because system B has 2x wattage of system A, that system B will be taken (or measured) to be 3dB louder than system A.

Also, with regard to what's noticeable (assuming one system/unit of sound power), double the sound power is double the sound power, and it sounds like double the sound power. Because of the way we tend to (naturally) look at relationships like this, there is an almost automatic "sense," when viewing formulas, that twice as much power should be twice as loud. But when we step back and realize that sound power/loudness is more like an additive (of discrete units) relationship than a multiplicative one, we realize that it's one that we already understand, intuitively.

Doubling the sound power unit of a one person talking, from one person talking to two people talking (+~3dB), is louder, but it's not twice as loud. It's as much louder as you'd expect...and it's noticeable...it's as loud as two people talking instead of one.

Similarly, (imagine) increasing 200 units of power (people yelling "Surprize!") from 200 people yelling to 400 people yelling (+~3dB), would certainly be noticeable. Increasing from 200 people to 300 (+~1.8dB) would also certainly be noticeable. All of this, of course, requires the use of some imagination, but I imagine if someone were to close the eyes, they'd notice the difference between 200 and 250 people (~.96dB).

It'd be really nice if amps had a wattage readout on them.
 
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those are good prices; if it's a good product.
8 6L6's really is only gonna do about 200 watts at ~25 watts a piece, if I understand all that correctly, which I may not.
 
These look great, and the prices are even crazy low. Hope they do sound good!

Maybe I'm missing something here. Amp are the only piece of electronics that seem to going backwards in the look department. I think the problem is a lot of young players that have never lived in their grandparents attic or basement and seen all the old sh$t there. If I want an amp that looks beat I'll buy something new and beat the hell out of it myself.

Man look at those knobs, they came right off a Magnavox console stereo and is the cabinet made of driftwood?

Price probably reflects the build.
 
No body complaining about these being fender clones yet? Beware the fender tone stack:eyebrow:
whats wrong with the Fender tone stack ? all kinds of players in the bass playing universe are perfectly happy with it. I have used both Fender and Ampeg/Bax tone stacks for decades and am totally comfortable with both of them. Different tools is all.
 
whats wrong with the Fender tone stack ? all kinds of players in the bass playing universe are perfectly happy with it. I have used both Fender and Ampeg/Bax tone stacks for decades and am totally comfortable with both of them. Different tools is all.

Trying to be sarcastic, which I guess didn't work. I really like the fender tonestack. Vintage bassman 100 is my amp of choice (although it seems to be the TH500 these days).

I think the fender tone stack gets a bad rap here on TB... no mids,, scooped sound,, too complicated, etc. Of course it seems fine when folks are blissfully unaware of how it is different from a Baxandall.
 
I have one of these on the way. I spoke with the guys at Mills last night. They still do use PCB but they did concur that picture is not a good representation of where the company is today. Once I receive mine, I will do a review and give any positive or negative feedback I have. I do not really have an issue with PCB, but I do understand the concern. If it sucks, I will post it on here, but as a company, I see Mills Custom as good guys trying to make a product that is high quality and different. I'll let you guys know.


You realize of course that now I will be stalking your account everyday until I see a review...
 
Go to any "Large" guitar show and see dozens of start up amp companies, point to point, nuts to butts, pink, blue, paisley flowered amps and see how long they last. Are these built in a garage?

The reason I ask is that back in the 70's I bought an amp that was new on the market and couldn't get it serviced. No longer around. It wasn't good. Have a back up.