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300 Watts vs 200 Watts???

#61
Problem with point to point is you don't have the option of routing things well, the position of stuff is determined by the going between the points, and that may not be the ideal location. Much better off laying things out well and using wires and mounting where necessary than sacrificing layout in order to be able to boast 'point to point'.
 
#62
moody said:
I keep hearing this. Not every drummer is stupidly loud.
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I use to play drum, that was my first instrument so your point is well taken.
That being said, guitar players always need to be louder than everybody, so put add a drummer to the mix and the mix gets stupid loud and da poor bass player cannot hear him or herself.
300 watts and a 610/810 fixes that! ........ Most of the time!
 
#63
Mr. Foxen said:
Problem with point to point is you don't have the option of routing things well, the position of stuff is determined by the going between the points, and that may not be the ideal location. Much better off laying things out well and using wires and mounting where necessary than sacrificing layout in order to be able to boast 'point to point'.
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Different definitions of point to point? My definition of point to point implies the ability to put tag strips where necessary.

e.g. look at gut shots on this page. (This is not me, and I am not trying to sell them - these are absolute works of art IMHO)
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#64
Stuff going from point to point. You can get away with it with simple circuits and low gain. With more gain, the limitations with regards to layout become apparent. Can see axial components with a leg bent back so it's more like a radial there, better supported at both ends so it can't vibrate when subjected to vibration. It is tidily made, but that's the simple circuit thing.

Edit: typo
 
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#70
Mr. Foxen said:
Stuff going from point to point. You can get away with it with simple circuits and low gain. With more gain, the limitations with regards to layout become apparent. Can see axial components with a leg bent back so it's more like a radial there, better supported at both ends so it can't vibrate when subjected to vibration. It is tidily mode, but that's the simple circuit thing.
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I'm trying to figure out what your last sentence means. What is a tidily mode and what has it got to do with simple circuits? Maybe I'm miss reading it?

Ps this same person has made some very high gain amps using the same methods and has not had serious issues.

Not saying that there is a problem with well designed PCB. I just don't see why point to point has to be inherently worse.
 
#73
I have one of these on the way. I spoke with the guys at Mills last night. They still do use PCB but they did concur that picture is not a good representation of where the company is today. Once I receive mine, I will do a review and give any positive or negative feedback I have. I do not really have an issue with PCB, but I do understand the concern. If it sucks, I will post it on here, but as a company, I see Mills Custom as good guys trying to make a product that is high quality and different. I'll let you guys know.
 
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#74
cv115505 said:
I have one of these on the way. I spoke with the guys at Mills last night. They still do use PCB but they did concur that picture is not a good representation of where the company is today. Once I receive mine, I will do a review and give any positive or negative feedback I have. I do not really have an issue with PCB, but I do understand the concern. If it sucks, I will post it on here, but as a company, I see Mills Custom as good guys trying to make a product that is high quality and different. I'll let you guys know.
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Cool, it will be interesting to see pics of the internals.
 
#75
Amp power, speaker sensitivity, max spl and apparant sould volume are complex discussions. Adding one item doesn't necessarily make a lot more sound!

You have to double your power rating to increase only 3db Spl. So 200w to 300w isn't going to make a lot of difference. Only 1.5db, barely perceptable under peak loads. Which is a bit like going from 8-8.5 on your amp dial...not a lot. Most amp dials are in 3db increments. 3 db is the generally accepted minimum jump in dbs to be noticable. From 200w, you'll need 400w for a noticable increase or 800w for a larger increase. So that's the amp considerations...
Spealer cabs are not equal and some are more effiecient than others. A more efficient cab will often yield more dbs at a low amp power thus offering a higher over all SPL. But, most drivers meet an optimum level of power to spl quite early and they have a max spl (sound pressure level) at a lower wattage than their max wattage handling. So 300w into a single cab where the cab actually maxxes out it's SPL at say 150w isn't going to produce any more dbs for the exta 150w if it's powered by a maxxed out 300w amp. This loss can be recovered or untilised by adding a 2nd cab. They would share the load and combine their max spl's. Often allowing the full power rating across the drivers and keeping the drivers under their max spl / wattage level. This max spl / watt is unique for each model of driver and varies by quite a lot between brands and models.
So what I'm saying is that a 100w of extra amp power isn't going to add a lot of real world SPL across the same cab. But if you do go for the bigger head, get a 2nd cab to share the load. At 300w, there's not a lot of drivers which will actually deliver 300w of sound. Most max out at quite low power levels (I've seen alot of ratings in the 125-150w). Add a 2nd cab and you can use what is being wasted from your existing 200 watter and use the extra 100w of headroom.
So if you go for the 300 watter, seriously consider getting a 2nd cab to make use of the extra headroom. Two matched cabs usually add a further 3db becuase of the reduced load. So you will gain from three areas all combining in a higher SPL.
 
#77
JakeyBran said:
I'm looking at new amp heads, and there's a custom build company that manufactures a 200 Watt all tube head, and a 300 Watt all tube head. The price difference is $100 with the 300 watt being $100 more than the 200 watt head. Is the extra 100 watts worth the extra $100?
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Well, for $100, 100 extra watts in a tube head is a bargain - assuming they are otherwise of equal quality (which we presume they are).
Ordinarily the difference between 200 and 300 watts would be almost inaudible so I would say no - but thee difference in price is so small you might as well get the extra little bit of headroom.
Of course - if you play little places and don't NEED 300 watts there is a BIG difference in weight to be added so you might take that into consideration (very few "ordinary gigs" would allow you to open up a 300 watt tube head).
 
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