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34" scale 5 string bad? help please

#21
Usually 35" gives a tighter B-string, but it is not an exact science... I have a 34" SR5 with a super B-string, and I have a 35" Lakland 55-02 with a super B-strings...

However, I have indeed tried some 34" 5-stringers with very floppy B-strings!
 
#24
Ric5 said:
most 5 string basses are 34". They would not build them that way if they didn't work.
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Yes, I agree that most commonly known 5-string basses are 34". E.g. StingRay and Fender.

MTD, Celinder, Yamaha (TRB5), Lakland, Lull, etc. plus most custom builders make 35" basses.

Sadowsky and Alleva Coppolo are 34", though.

Both CAN work great, but IMO/IME, there are definitely some 34" 5-stringers out there with very poor B-strings.
 
#25
I am on that prefers a rare bird...a 34" scale 5 string with a string thru bridge! Where many believie that longer scale length alone makes for a tighter B string, part of the equation is missing, it is the STRING LENGTH, not scale length that makes the most difference. This is part of the formula for Lakland and why the B string is known for not being floppy. Granted, they are 35" scale, most of the instruments leave the factory with the strings running thru the the body of the instrument; thus adding additional tension due to increase in string length.
 
#26
BigOldHarry said:
My #1 reason for playing 34" exclusively is that I found that swapping between 34" and 35" screwed up my fretless intonation. I played *only* 35"s for a number of years, but I started really wanting a nice 4 string for some gigs, and we all know that 35" four string basses are not the norm...

so now I play only 34"s - - and I've found my hands aren't nearly so tired after gigs. That little extra reach in the lower registers was taking a toll - not to mention the bit of extra weight that 35" basses have... So I'm a happy camper.
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Switching between the various scale lengths, even on fretless, isn't that big of a deal to me. I used to routinely switch between a 35" scale 6 and a 30" scale fretless 4.

As for weight, a lot will depend on the particular manufacturer, but there's an idea that most 35" scale basses are simply bigger. More often than not, the bridge is moved back closer to the strap button. The neck may be extended a hair, but for the most part it's mostly in the bridge. Any changes in weight should be negligible either way.

As for 35" scale 4 strings, they're out there. At the moment I have 3. Call me crazy, but I enjoy how 35" scale basses play.
 
#29
I have a 35" 5ver and two 34" ones. I dunno, the laws of physics state that 35" will give the B a tighter sound, but a lot of people on here will tell you that a $3000 34 will overcome that in some way. I sat in the Sadowsky shop and experienced this first hand, though I couldn't tell you how they do it. It's possible that string choice plays a big role.

But a lot of it depends on your feel, as well as what brands you already like. For instance, the name Music Man has popped up on this thread several times as an example of how to do it right. But honestly, I tried out a whole bunch of Music Man 5vers, and found none to have the holy grail of B strings. I bought a 35" scale Lākland instead, because it had a B string with some real zing in it; I don't want a B string that feels better than one on a cheapo bass, I want one that feels as close to an E string as possible, flab-wise.

Granted, I then turned around and bought a Fender 5ver, which is 34" scale. Again, some on here have mentioned that string selection can really affect things, and I definitely *do* buy that argument. I think I've found a string set that gives me a good B, but I'm always on the lookout for a better B.
 
#31
I've had great 34" basses and great 35" basses. Neither is any better than the other simply because of the scale length. It all depends on the build quality of the instrument and the quality of the parts used. I'd say go shop around for some basses and see what you like.
 
#33
roadkill2309 said:
Again, some on here have mentioned that string selection can really affect things, and I definitely *do* buy that argument.
Click to expand...

Strings can certainly help, but shouldn't be a substitute to a well made bass. Thicker/denser strings can help, but the drawback is that the low B string will get too thick sounding as you move up the fingerboard. A lot of bassists view the B string as 5 lower notes, but when you can use it higher on the fingerboard, you can really open the utility. My Conklin's low B can still sound fine near the 15th position, but I've played a few basses over the year that the 7th position sounded junky.

Fretlessboy said:
My pair of Ken Smiths have great 34 inch "B" strings. Oakland's 35 inch slams. A great bass is a great bass.
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Oakland?
 
#34
I've got little experience with 5-strings, but from what I understand, the 35" scale helps prevent the ever-dreaded floppy B-String. That said, I've also heard that it really depends on the bass, and that if it's well made, there can be 34" scale 5-strings without a floppy B.
 
#36
I prefer 34" scale for my hands. I think the other strings may sound better and since the B string gets the least amount of use, I prefer to "sacrifice" that string for the other 4 I play on most.

That said, you can find good and bad 5 string basses of any scale. I am playing a Yamaha BB605 with a Bartolini preamp and pups. It sounds and plays ALMOST as good as any other 5 string I have owned - and that has been MANY. Get what feels right and speaks to you - no matter what people on TB say.
 
#37
Jumping on the build quality bandwagon here. I have an SX 5 string and a Modulus 5 String, both at 34" scale. Guess which one plays better? I suppose it has a lot to do with neck materials (Maple vs Graphite), but still, a good quality, highly playable (is that a real metric?) 34" 5 string IS possible. Just go and play some until you find yours.
 
#39
IMO, a lot has to do with the rigidity of the neck too. If you have a solid, rigid neck, the tension of the strings won't cause the neck to bow one way or the other, allowing it to hold the tension of the strings and keep the action nice and low without moving. Sure, you may have some natural adjusting to climates and seasonal changes, but, on an every day basis, you can have low action with a tight, articulate B string as well as an even tone across the fretboard.
 

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