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4 string 36" scale Cocobolo-Ebony-Pau Ferro CT inspired

I’m gonna share with you the building of a bass strongly inspired by “master” Carl Thompson.

Spec:

4 strings
36” scale
24 jumbo frets
Set-neck construction
Width at nut 42mm (1.653”)
Thickness at nut 21mm (0.826”)
Width at 12° fret 54mm (2.125”)
Thickness at 12° fret 24.8mm (0.976”)
Body thickness 28mm (1.102")

Neck laminated Mahogany/Walnut/Mahogany whit Ebony binding and dyed veneer
Makassar ebony fretboard without dot, 16” radius
One piece Mahogany body 18mm (0.708")
Cocobolo/Ebony top 5mm (0.196")
Pau Ferro/Ebony back 5mm (0.196")
Pau Ferro heel block
Ebony headstock front and back
Finish with Danish oil

Passive electronics:
2 Bartolini humbucker W4BCB with Cocobolo/Ebony cover
Switch DPDT for PU selection
Volume pot 250Kohm ( or 500K???)
Tone pot 250Kohm with Mallory cap 0.033uf
Switch DPDT for tone-bypass/tone pot/tone pot+treble defeat with an extra Mallory cap 0.022uf (or 0.033? Any suggestion?)

Black Hipshot A style bridge 19mm spacing
Black Hipshot Ultralite Y tuners


This is an old render, something gonna be different:
Spawnbass-_zps7734db0c.jpg


Cocobolo
cocobolomex.jpg


Pau Ferro
PauFerroPSantos.jpg
 
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Reactions: Gary_M
I have no photos of neck lamination, I made a sandwich with Mahogany / black veneer / red veneer / Walnut (5mm thick) again veneer and Mahogany.
Then I cut the neck blank creating a "wedge" thinner towards the nut and thicker toward the heel, we can see in this photo:
IMG_0371_zps17e316a2.jpg


I routed the TR channel parallel to the back of the neck, so as to create a triangle of forces between TR and strings, thanks to the different inclination of the two planes of the neck:
IMG_0324_zps78fbcd31.jpg


I cut out the scarf joint with an angle of about 12°,
I cut a recess for TR nut,
I applied the TR single action gluing the heel with epoxy and I closed the channel with a strip of wenge:
IMG_0367_zpsed81b929.jpg


P.S. sorry for my bad english :hmm:
 
I keep on showing my building:

I glued the fretboard (previously shaped) and clamped with spring clamps. I saw this technique on Pete Hilton's site. As you know he is the "chief luthier" at CT, but he also make some stunning bass at home (but without vacuum pump like the one he use at Thompson's shop :smug:)
IMG_0530_zps5a0f8bef.jpg


Headstock ready to be glued:
IMG_0870_zps075ad951.jpg


Headstock glued and clamped!
IMG_0871_zps3233e89b.jpg
 
I remember that someone was having problems with their Cal Thompson esque bass because they couldn't find strings long enough for the 36 inch body through scale.

Do you know what you will be stringing this up with?

I was looking up double bass strings for a lark, and a short scale double bass is 36 inches, that doesn't include the length of the tailpiece to the bridge, so You could potentially string this up with double bass strings.

I have a feeling that it wouldn't end well though, I wonder if anyone else knows?
 
Some pictures of gluing the veneers and binding on the sides of the neck/fretboard. As shown in the second picture the veneers will be red for the back and green for the top, I made this choice because the Walnut and Pau Ferro have a cold tone that contrasts well with red veneer, while the Cocobolo is warm and looks good with a cold green veneer. IMHO of course!:smug:

IMG_0874_zps8d9796ec.jpg



VVVVV (lot of chaos in my micro-workroom...:hmm:) VVVVV
IMG_0877_zps9bb636c7.jpg



IMG_0880_zps9e80a5b8.jpg
 
Yes, a good piece of mac ebony!

I keep on post some random pics.
Of course some pic while i'm working could be more interesting... but i have only two hands!

Gluing headstock wings:
IMG_1017_zpsd1655b39.jpg


Fretting:
IMG_1851_zps76bdc107.jpg


Dressing and polishing the frets:
IMG_1849_zps63c46aa9.jpg


Maybe fretting and dressing before shaping the back of the neck could be strange for someone , but i was wondering if would work. I'll let you know!
 
Updates about the back of the body::

In order to have the electronics cover (on the back) with wood that matches perfectly with the rest of the body back I cut the cover with a fine scroll saw,
and then I filled the space sawed by the blade with a veneer of 0.6mm
IMG_2013_zpsf7dde446.jpg


Then I did the electronics "hole" on the body to align the cover, here's a placement test:
IMG_2017_zpsa2811399.jpg


And now how i glued the back: I glued the Pau Ferro sides, using the Ebony center as a support, then I glued the Ebony center pushing it with a hammer in his place. Being narrower at the top allowed me to let the joints adhere perfectly.
But i put it too much inside and i bend slightly the body. :hmm: But if i do the same with the top i should solve the problem...
IMG_2026_zpsce01358a.jpg


I'm realizing I work in reverse.
I put the frets before shaping the neck, i did the electronics cover before the whole body... should I worry? :eyebrow:
 
Updates about the back of the body::

In order to have the electronics cover (on the back) with wood that matches perfectly with the rest of the body back I cut the cover with a fine scroll saw,
and then I filled the space sawed by the blade with a veneer of 0.6mm
IMG_2013_zpsf7dde446.jpg


Then I did the electronics "hole" on the body to align the cover, here's a placement test:
IMG_2017_zpsa2811399.jpg


And now how i glued the back: I glued the Pau Ferro sides, using the Ebony center as a support, then I glued the Ebony center pushing it with a hammer in his place. Being narrower at the top allowed me to let the joints adhere perfectly.
But i put it too much inside and i bend slightly the body. :hmm: But if i do the same with the top i should solve the problem...
IMG_2026_zpsce01358a.jpg


I'm realizing I work in reverse.
I put the frets before shaping the neck, i did the electronics cover before the whole body... should I worry? :eyebrow:

I think you will do fine lol!
really nice build, been watchin from the start
 
Below some pictures of the process of gluing the top
(i cut it as option 4 of Cocobolo top poll 2.0 )

As you can glimpse from this photo I dug with the chisel the channels for the wires of the PU and the mass of the bridge
(I hate to make the holes with a drill, i hate the drill bits that bend and break inside the body and i hate the spindle that ruins the top.
I'm not able to do it! :spit:):
IMG_2044_zpsa3a820a1.jpg


After gluing the wings, I pushed the Ebony center to straighten the body:
IMG_2047_zpsb925967e.jpg


I clamped it well:
IMG_2049_zpscf841a19.jpg


The only flaw is gluing the green veneers, the left one is slightly raised up and there is a little space below,
I think we will insert a veneer micro-wedge....

Ah, a little explanation as to why I pasted the top and the back already cutted: to not throw anything away, of course!
With the remnants of Pau Ferro I made the heel-block,
while the remains of Cocobolo will be use as PU covers, TR cover and logo on the headstock.
 
Here is the body ready to be carved. I placed the Hipshot bridge and the Neck just to see how it will look assembled
IMG_2050_zps7bfa1b0d.jpg



Hipshot tuners:
IMG_2051_zpsf04df795.jpg



Full view:
IMG_2054_zps8b973aa3.jpg



I lost a bit of enthusiasm in the construction of this bass, because my "customer" some month ago told me to work slowly because he has other expenses to deal with, and now he no longer responds to my messages...
Perhaps doesn't he want this bass anymore?...
This situation is a bit frustrating... Any advice? :hmm:
 
That's nice work on the cavity cover.

Do you plan to leave a sharp step between the shaped top layer and the body core, or to do some rounding or blending?


As far as the customer situation, it doesn't sound good. You might consider stopping work until you have an indication that you still have a customer. Either that, or put aside any deposit he has given you, so you're prepared to give it back when he asks for it back a few months from now, and you finish the bass to sell elsewhere.