4001 Mashup

[mapleglo]

I think you should probably plug the tuner holes, veneer the headstock, and drill it as a 3+2 instead of a 2+3 headstock. The tuner bushing is going to hang over your truss rod access, and there will definitely be problems with a truss rod cover.

I tried doing the 3+2 layout during the design phase. It wasn't happening as I couldn't get the straight string paths. But you're right about the truss rod cover. That won't happen in its current state.

 

[mapleglo]

Close up of the headstock with the G tuner installed. I'll think about it for now, but I think it'll be more trouble to try to "fix" it, than just leaving it as a learning experience.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

How about a TRC that's kind of an organically (leafy?) shape that curves around the tuner bushing. With your artistic ability, its an opportunity, not a problem. I can kind of picture it in my head, sinuous curvy thing that complements the lovely leafenbacker headstock. You got this.

 

[mapleglo]

I clamped the bridge in place to check string height. @Gilmourisgod got me nervous.

No frets yet obviously, but seems ok with plenty of adjustment left.

I did a little more general shaping on the headstock and neck/body transition. Still much left to do but coming along.

I also ordered fret wire - 2 different sizes, one for the zero fret and one for the rest, and side markers and dot fret markers. Shipped on Friday, should be here at the end of next week.

 

[MrArose13]

Oh, and the top pic, on the left, is a router my husband picked up at the thrift store today for $5.00. I'll take a closer look at it tomorrow.

Looks like someone just got a router table

 

[Dadagoboi]

I think you should probably plug the tuner holes, veneer the headstock, and drill it as a 3+2 instead of a 2+3 headstock. The tuner bushing is going to hang over your truss rod access, and there will definitely be problems with a truss rod cover.

Next time you might consider using Hipshot 3/8" tuners, they require smaller holes in the headstock. I'd also be concerned how little wood is left in the G string tuner/ trussrod access route area. Other than that, KILLER!

 

[mapleglo]

Looks like someone just got a router table

Great idea!

Next time you might consider using Hipshot 3/8" tuners, they require smaller holes in the headstock. I'd also be concerned how little wood is left in the G string tuner/ trussrod access route area. Other than that, KILLER!

Thanks, yeah, it does seem a little thin there. I think I'll leave the volute pretty thick, in an effort to compensate.

 

[mapleglo]

I rounded over the edges of the body with a very mild round over bit.

And continued shaping the neck. Very slowly.

I'd like to end up with a thin, "D" shaped profile.

 

[mapleglo]

Did a little more work on the neck.

Getting there. A few more rasping sessions I think. Though I do wish I had a more aggressive rasp...

And those red splotches toward the left of the work bench - I guess they appeared when the jig saw smashed my left pointer finger the other day. Ouch.

And the fret wire and dot markers arrived from LMII.

A little smaller than I expected, but I think they'll work. I didn't realize they are in California. Next business day delivery. I think I'll be ordering more from them.

 

[JIO]

Great idea!
Thanks, yeah, it does seem a little thin there. I think I'll leave the volute pretty thick, in an effort to compensate.

Well, it's not orthodox - but as long as it achieves the goal. Same with the front G placement… just an area to get creative with. (as far as the cursed trc!)

 

[wraub]

Unfortunate though this may be, at least you still have... Well, everything else.
Good looking body, well considered design, plenty to work with. Lots of potential.

(kinda sounds like me describing me, now that I think about it...)

 

[Skarsoul]

after consulting my crystal ball, I'm predicting another multi page Truss Rod Cover sub thread. . .

 

[mapleglo]

I'm pretty close to the finished shaping the back of the neck.

I thought I'd take a break from that so I installed the fret markers.

My first "inlay" attempt I can't wait to do the side markers. I might even start the radius on the fretboard.

 

[JIO]

My first "inlay" attempt I can't wait to do the side markers. I might even start the radius on the fretboard.

I already see an advantage of that heal-hump; you can lay the bass down and it rests on it, and not the tuners which saves them from being whacked out of tune.

Also - positioning of fb dots is harder than it looks, especially if they are closer to each other (12th/24th frets) wood grain can minutely shift the bit, resulting in a close but just-off pairing. Looks like you had smooth sailing on maple.

 

[mapleglo]

I already see an advantage of that heal-hump; you can lay the bass down and it rests on it, and not the tuners which saves them from being whacked out of tune.

Also - positioning of fb dots is harder than it looks, especially if they are closer to each other (12th/24th frets) wood grain can minutely shift the bit, resulting in a close but just-off pairing. Looks like you had smooth sailing on maple.

I'm actually beginning to like the heal-hump as it also helps to keep the fretboard level. I hadn't thought about the whacked out of tune issue. The dot positioning did come out pretty well. I measured carefully, and used an awl to start each hole, which helped prevent the drill bit from wandering. Misaligned dots would have played havoc with my OCD.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Maple,
Do you have a sense for how much wood is left between the bottom of trussrods and back of neck? I'm really paranoid about my double-action rod blowing out the back of the neck. The figure I keep seeing as minimum safe distance is about 3/16". This leaves me with a neck thickness somewhere between 7/8" and 1" neck thickness at the first fret. I'd shave another 1/16" off if I thought it was safe.

 

[mapleglo]

Maple,
Do you have a sense for how much wood is left between the bottom of trussrods and back of neck? I'm really paranoid about my double-action rod blowing out the back of the neck. The figure I keep seeing as minimum safe distance is about 3/16". This leaves me with a neck thickness somewhere between 7/8" and 1" neck thickness at the first fret. I'd shave another 1/16" off if I thought it was safe.

The neck is just about 7/8" thick, and I was careful not to take that down during shaping. The fretboard is about 1/4" thick, the truss rods are about 3/8" thick, which leaves about 1/4" on the back side between the bottom of the truss rods and the back of the neck.

I'm going with a 10" radius on the fretboard, so that will thin the top a little, and final sanding on the back may bring it down another 1/16th or so. I'm hoping that'll be ok. The neck feels nice now, though I wouldn't mind it being just a tad thinner. Like you, I don't want to thin it down too much more, for the same fears you have.

 

[Robert Canfield]

How did I miss this build? I'm a fan Maple! What the heck? Sub'd

 

[Gabbs]

How did I miss this build? I'm a fan Maple! What the heck? Sub'd

You may be a fan but do you have a number?

 

[Gilmourisgod]

How did I miss this build? I'm a fan Maple! What the heck? Sub'd

You gotta be light on your toes to keep up with Maple, this thread was interrupted by the Marceline Axe bass, now we are back live.