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5 string buckeye burl/mahogany neck through

For your logo it looks like you will need highlights on it so it will be seen, not just black.

Yeah, good point.

Hey Lisa

I do decals and I would love to contribute to this bass, my treat. Here are a couple of VERY QUICK rough designs based on your brushstrokes - a gold leaf, a turquoise and a silver. It would take a minute to get the "B" right, and to keep every pixel of detail from your original brush stroke - it would help if I had a large hi-res version. The B looks more like an E here, the brushstroke was very fine and Photoshop/Illustrator were not liking it much.

I just wanted you to get a feel for these and see if anything struck a chord.

FINAL DECALS LISA.png


If you like, we can refine something to your liking - and I can print them onto a sheet and pop them over to you. Or if you have other ideas, let me know....I am easy...

Pat Wilkins LOVES my decals and says they are among the easiest to work with he has ever experienced....(it's all in the paper!)

I enjoy doing it so it's no sweat. Plus I love the idea that I can contribute in some small way to an instrument as nice as this one.
 
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Hey Lisa

I do decals and I would love to contribute to this bass, my treat. Here are a couple of VERY QUICK rough designs based on your brushstrokes - a gold leaf, a turquoise and a silver. It would take a minute to get the "B" right, and to keep every pixel of detail from your original brush stroke - it would help if I had a large hi-res version. The B looks more like an E here, the brushstroke was very fine and Photoshop/Illustrator were not liking it much.

I just wanted you to get a feel for these and see if anything struck a chord.

View attachment 615137

If you like, we can refine something to your liking - and I can print them onto a sheet and pop them over to you. Or if you have other ideas, let me know....I am easy...

Pat Wilkins LOVES my decals and says they are among the easiest to work with he has ever experienced....(it's all in the paper!)

I enjoy doing it so it's no sweat. Plus I love the idea that I can contribute in some small way to an instrument as nice as this one.

That's awesome! What kind of decals are they/what's the application process? I'm trying to start finishing the bass next week if I can manage to, so I'm not sure if there would be time or not, but I'm interested if so. I have a hi-res version.
 
That's awesome! What kind of decals are they/what's the application process? I'm trying to start finishing the bass next week if I can manage to, so I'm not sure if there would be time or not, but I'm interested if so. I have a hi-res version.

Hi Lisa

It's no big deal - I can probably get them out to you later today. I will send the instructions - you just soak it in a cup of water for around 20 or 30 seconds and apply it to the headstock. Then you just shoot a couple of light coats of clear over it and it the edges completely disappear. Here is exactly what Pat Wilkins said about my decals:

"I'd like to know where those decals came from and the particular paper that was used. That was a great decal. It went on easily and the backing vanished perfectly. I don't get great water decals like that very often and especially not the laser printer type. If I could get that paper I might make some decals of my own." -Pat

What I would propose is this - send me the hi res version as soon as you can today, and let me know the exact size you want - and I will pop you back some proofs. If you are available today to have a back and forth or two - and you like the results, I can probably print them out and send them to you today. It'a a waste of sheet not to fill them up, so here is what I would do for you, again my treat. My standard Luthier pack is black, gold foil, gold leaf, silver foil and silver leaf. Happy to throw in a couple of "exotic" ones too. And while you are at it, you should send me your complete signature, and I can send those as well. You can use those under the pickups to "sign" the bass or on the back outside or inside of the control cover is pretty cool. Some like to put them on the back of the headstock.

So post the hi res version, or email it to me at [email protected] and let's get on it. Time is a wasting. My builder Keith Horne works for EchoPark in L.A. and here are the decals I ran for him. I can do pretty much anything, and this isn't a business, I do it for select folks whose work I truly appreciate.

Decal .png


So let me know. I am easy at the office today, so it's a good day for me. If you like any of the above I did for Keith, let me know and I will include those. If not good for you there is always tomorrow, and we can use Fedex if you are in a hurry.....

So, in summary, either post or email me a hi res version of your logo with the size(s) that you like - and a hi-res version of your signature, and we will do a back and forth until you are happy - and I will get you a sheet or two to get you started.

To me an artist should have an entire palette of decals to choose from when putting one of the final - and one of the most important - finishing touches on a one-of-a-kind creation...

FULL DISCLOSURE: A very special thanks goes out to mapleglo who turned me on to this laser decal paper when I was struggling with the inkjet process. She is a gem....
 
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So, a little update.


BassHappy has been working on getting some decals ready and they look great! Can't wait to see them in person.



I emailed Target Coatings to ask their thoughts on the epoxy/shellac/lacquer thing and this is what I was told (they responded in about a half hour, by the way)

It is OK to use epoxy underneath EM6000 Production Lacquer for your bass guitar application. Ensure that the epoxy is fully cured and thoroughly cleaned with denatured alcohol (DNA) prior to applying any sealer or topcoat applications. Some epoxy formulas generate an amine blush during the cure cycle. This blush is a 'greasy' feeling diluent that can cause poor film formation and adhesion problems when top coats are applied. Cleaning with DNA will remove the blush.

Once the epoxy is cured and cleaned, fine sand the epoxy surface with 400grit aluminum oxide sand paper to level off defects. You can now proceed directly to the EM6000 Lacquer- there is no need to use our shellac for this application.​

So, I guess that's what I'll do. I'll just use the shellac on the neck.

I started cleaning up the epoxy/turquoise runs on the mahogany yesterday, but only had about an hour to work on it, so I didn't get it all cleaned up yet, which unfortunately means I'm going to have to wait longer to do the epoxy and let it cure. I won't be able to do it until at least Sunday with my schedule, then it's 72 hours to cure after that. But the shellac step is taken out except for the neck, so that might help things a little bit.

After a bit of sanding and scraping, I decided to see what the fine toothed side of the shinto rasp would do on the epoxy runs/ridges on the mahogany and it turned out that it worked really well. The rasp is flat, so there were certain areas of the curves that it couldn't reach and that's most of what I have left to work on.
 
Chucking a round bottom router bit into a drill press and recessing the pot/switch holes so close to the end of the build was terrifying. I kept thinking “what if this tears a gigantic hole through the top and splinters out and destroys the entire bass???” Luckily it turned out totally fine.

tumblr_noirht3Lze1qi8q1ao3_1280.jpg


tumblr_noirht3Lze1qi8q1ao1_1280.jpg


Added some epoxy, hopefully that's all it needs so I can turn it over and do the mahogany.

tumblr_noirht3Lze1qi8q1ao2_1280.jpg
 
Ugh, yes... sanding. I'm trying not to think about it yet. 72 hours to cure = 72 hours to not have to sand.

On the bright side, I did do a pretty nice job this time of not letting it create runs. I know of one run that dripped through the bark cutout area and out the other side, but I think that was it, surprisingly. So hopefully it will go faster this time.

I started getting the template ready for the pickup and bridge block routes and figured out the depths of the routes and that the thickness of the bridge block should be the same as the depth of that route, so that's all pretty much ready to happen once the epoxy is cured, then some more holes to drill, sanding the epoxy smooth (it's not too far off), sanding the neck, shellac the neck, do the decals, then spray finish, which I'm thinking will take 2-3 days. There is some epoxy around both ends of the fretboard that I'm going to have to clean up somehow...
 
Beautiful. The decals Basshappy made are great as well. Have you decided which logo you're going to use?

Not yet. I'm thinking either the white pearl (1st row, 3 over) or the copper/brown (2nd row, 5 over), but I'll have to see how all the different ones look when it's laid out over the bass.


Does anybody here know about decal compatibility with different finishes? I'm hoping I can use them with tung oil (Formby's) on some of my other builds too.
 
Does anybody here know about decal compatibility with different finishes? I'm hoping I can use them with tung oil (Formby's) on some of my other builds too.
I tested this with my build, and I didn't like the results with tung oil on labels. I ended up spraying with a Rustoleum clear coat enamel. Even when I put the waterslide label on my fingerboard, I put several coats of clear on before I did the CA glue sealing. I hope you have better success, because I wasn't happy with my results.
 

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