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5 string buckeye burl/mahogany neck through
- Thread starter lbridenstine
- Start date
Dewaxed shellac? I've done this with a number of basses over the years and not run into any issues.
Okay, that's what I was originally going to do, so as long as that's okay to just sand the edges so there isn't a ridge there, then I could do that. I think I'll still make a tape dam around the burl on the next coat so hopefully no more will run down the sides and hopefully the voids will fill all the way this time.
I made some dewaxed shellac to use in between the epoxy and lacquer the other day (photo on previous page)
I'm also going to coat the neck with shellac before the lacquer to hopefully bring out the figure or color or whatever more than the waterbased lacquer would.Are you sure? I would have thought it would as long as the epoxy is sanded to a low enough (by this, I mean not super fine) grit, I think 220 was what the shellac says to sand the wood to if I remember right, so I was going to sand the epoxy to 220 as well before the shellac. Do you have anything about this that I can read up on?
Manton Customs
UK Luthier
Maybe it depends on the Epoxy? It was my understanding that the two are not compatible and I think I did try once with bad results, but it was a while back. Here's an article which says they don't get on Invalid Link Removed which might have been where I picked it up.
Here's what the man says in the above article: Important: do not use shellac over or under epoxy, the two will not stick to one another! Either one works as a sealer and improves adhesion to the waterborne, but it's one or the other, not both. I prefer epoxy because it "wets" the wood better and acts as a filler as well.
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I got the epoxy/turquoise sanded down and the second coat on.
The color is a bit off on the mahogany on this one, it's more orange/red in person, but you get a little bit of an idea of how the epoxy makes it look.
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I had to add more turquoise to a few of the voids, so that's why a few look a little sloppy right now.
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The color is a bit off on the mahogany on this one, it's more orange/red in person, but you get a little bit of an idea of how the epoxy makes it look.
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I had to add more turquoise to a few of the voids, so that's why a few look a little sloppy right now.
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BassHappy
Supporting Member
- Aug 15, 2011
- 571
- 171
- Disclosures
- Owner/Luthier:RoseBud Basses & Guitars LLC
Hopkins
Commercial User
Great execution, I'm just personally not a fan of the toothpaste...I mean turquoise burl filling, but that's just my opinion.
Thanks guys!
The owner of the bass just happened to be a fan of turquoise, so when I was mentioning options to him for filling the voids at the beginning of the build, he jumped on the turquoise option as soon as he heard it. He seems happy with it after seeing the pictures too, so that's good. If it were my bass, I probably wouldn't have done it, but since he likes it, I think it was something that was worth doing on a build.
The site I got it from (Invalid Link Removed) has a lot of other options for inlay materials too, so at some point, I might try something a little more subtle if I have wood that needs filling.
BassHappy
Supporting Member
Hey, it is all SO GOOD girl!
A big part of what you do is making the client/commissioner of the build happy - and I have to assume that you have done that with an extraordinary commitment to passion and dedication. It really shows. To me, it speaks volumes about YOU and your commitment to excellence. And excellent it is.
Bring it home.
I forgot to take a picture the other day, but I went back to the wood burning pen method to put another logo on the truss rod cover (it's 3 very thin layers of wood glued together so I didn't want to end up potentially separating them with a clothes iron), but after I put the epoxy on, the burl got much darker than the burl on the body/headstock AND the ink faded a bit, so you can barely see it. The cover is too thin to sand the epoxy off, so I'm wondering if I should leave it or try to put another logo on top if I can line it up the same? Do you think shellac would transfer it, rather than using Mod Podge or gel? I don't want to use heat on top of the epoxy.
Also, I'm trying to make my mom a mother's day gift (late, I know) of a picture on wood and I can't get a good color print with a laser printer, so I printed one on our inkjet photo printer and it turned out much better than the laser ones, but with both laser and inkjet, I keep having issues with some of the ink/toner peeling off as I'm rubbing the paper off of the wood. I was under the impression that the toner/ink is going into the wood, but it seems more like a film sitting on top. I'm going to try to figure this out, but suggestions would be helpful.
Also, I'm trying to make my mom a mother's day gift (late, I know) of a picture on wood and I can't get a good color print with a laser printer, so I printed one on our inkjet photo printer and it turned out much better than the laser ones, but with both laser and inkjet, I keep having issues with some of the ink/toner peeling off as I'm rubbing the paper off of the wood. I was under the impression that the toner/ink is going into the wood, but it seems more like a film sitting on top. I'm going to try to figure this out, but suggestions would be helpful.
- Aug 15, 2011
- 571
- 171
- Disclosures
- Owner/Luthier:RoseBud Basses & Guitars LLC
If you haven't seen it check out this...
or, for just this one, you could paint it on...
you could even make a logo stamp with craft foam and a scrap of wood... I couldn't find a vid for this but i'm sure you get the idea.
hope that helps.
or, for just this one, you could paint it on...
you could even make a logo stamp with craft foam and a scrap of wood... I couldn't find a vid for this but i'm sure you get the idea.
hope that helps.
Funny, I was just looking up videos and came across this video by Canon:
I wonder why both videos specify Krylon clear matte finish.
I have tried printing on label paper without the finish and glue before and the printer smeared the ink every time. I'm guessing the finish and glue prevents that. I wonder if Titebond would work? I don't really keep any Elmer's white glue around anymore.
I'm using a gel that looks pretty similar to that, but a different brand. The one I got is gloss, but I'm not sure if it matters for this or not. $16 for a container smaller than the one in the video! Do you guys know if it's safe to put water based lacquer over gel?
I'm not sure I would be that good at painting, but maybe I'll give it a try, since I have lines on there I can trace and a bottle of black artist ink...
By the way, here is what the truss rod cover currently looks like. You can kind of see the logo on there... barely.
And here is the photo I'm trying to transfer for my mom. The one on the left is a new print that I was going to try before I saw the videos and the one on the right is the last attempt (after too much scrubbing). I did notice in a lot of the other videos of the method I did on this that everyone is spreading water over the paper and letting it soak the paper before they rub the paper off and I didn't do that, I just dampened a washcloth and scrubbed at it, so I probably scrubbed way too hard.
Gotta sand that off and try again.
