5 string buckeye burl/mahogany neck through

[Hopkins]

Looks good, have you checked out the HVLP systems like this? Invalid Link Removed

No compressor needed... Also kudos for masking off your flip flops.. safety first.

I think I would go with an LVLP gun and a small compressor. Something about that system just seems like it would be a waste of money.

 

[scottyd]

I think I would go with an LVLP gun and a small compressor. Something about that system just seems like it would be a waste of money.

Nah, you're wrong there.. I've used it with good results, don't let the Harbor Freight branding fool you about the overall design of the sprayer, that's just an example. Turbine sprayers are hardly a waste of money. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[Hopkins]

Nah, you're wrong there.. I've used it with good results, don't let the Harbor Freight branding fool you about the overall design of the sprayer, that's just an example. Turbine sprayers are hardly a waste of money. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I know that the turbine powered HVLP systems are really nice, but most are pretty expensive. The price of that one is what makes me question it. But if you have had success with it I have no reason to not take your word for it.

I already have a compressor capable of supporting an HVLP gun so I have no reason to try it out.

 

[scottyd]

I know that the turbine powered HVLP systems are really nice, but most are pretty expensive. The price of that one is what makes me question it. But if you have had success with it I have no reason to not take your word for it.

I already have a compressor capable of supporting an HVLP gun so I have no reason to try it out.

I use both.. but at one time I didn't have a shop with a dedicated spray room plumbed with air either.... Its still nice to bust out the turbine on occasion when I don't feel like stretching (aka running a maze of ) air line or when the spray room is occupied. I think that just like most of HF stuff the occasional user will be just fine.. the daily user, not so much.

 

[Hopkins]

I use both.. but at one time I didn't have a shop with a dedicated spray room plumbed with air either.... Its still nice to bust out the turbine on occasion when I don't feel like stretching (aka running a maze of ) air line or when the spray room is occupied. I think that just like most of HF stuff the occasional user will be just fine.. the daily user, not so much.

How does it lay finish down compared to HVLP? What types of finish have you sprayed with it, any 2k urethane?

 

[scottyd]

About the same actually. Its a little different setting up the fan and what not. I've used it with poly, waterborne, acrylics & lacquer of different brands mostly guitar and furniture type applications. I've never used it with anything requiring catalyst or 2 part, nothing automotive or large. I've got a really nice Mattson gun that I use for stuff like that but I it would most likely handle it well.

 

[Hopkins]

About the same actually. Its a little different setting up the fan and what not. I've used it with poly, waterborne, acrylics & lacquer of different brands mostly guitar and furniture type applications. I've never used it with anything requiring catalyst or 2 part, nothing automotive or large. I've got a really nice Mattson gun that I use for stuff like that but I it would most likely handle it well.

Cool, sounds like a possible future option if I am ever in a pinch.

 

[lbridenstine]

Looks good, have you checked out the HVLP systems like this? Invalid Link Removed

No compressor needed... Also kudos for masking off your flip flops.. safety first.

I like the idea of no compressor needed. I never know what to look for when it comes to spray systems, so thanks for the link. I'm planning on wiping tung oil on the next couple guitars, but at some point I'm sure I'll need to buy one.

I got really confused because I looked through all the pictures and was like "I don't even see my flip flops anywhere" but I went back through and found it. I wasn't actually masking them, I just keep kicking the drop clothes back when I'm done spraying because they're really slippery on that floor. The only thing I use flip flops for is to walk on top of drop cloths that have finish on them so I don't get it on my feet, so the bottoms of the flip flops are also very slippery. So... unfortunately I'm not doing well with the safety first aspect there.

 

[scottyd]

Lol that's a technical explanation of flip flops! I was just kidding yah. But now we know you spray finish barefoot!

 

[lbridenstine]

Now I wait for it to cure.

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She likes to push the tennis ball down the stairs while I’m in the basement taking pictures of the bass.

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[vmabus]

Beauteous!

 

[lbridenstine]

Here are my decal tests, now that it's too late for the bass:

I decided to try to color over some of the colors with a silver sharpie and put them on backwards, along with the regular, non-sharpied ones facing the right direction. The logo is pretty small and the Sharpie was not fine-tipped, so you can definitely see where I colored outside the lines, but it's just a test. Also, I'm not going to continue spraying more finish over them because I'd like to use most of this wood for something and I don't want to give myself too much to sand off.

I'm kinda liking that outline one (top, left on the black limba). I also think everything showed up pretty nicely on the white side of the limba. Black shows up good on the mahogany as well. Turquoise really pops on the wenge when it has the silver behind it. The one above the turquoise is the one that matches what I put on the truss rod cover.

BassHappy, the mother of pearl decal is on the bottom left of the walnut. I like that the best of the silver or white ones. The one above it looks white, but is actually just silver Sharpie. One of the silver-ish ones on the white part of the limba might also be a pearl one, I can't tell for sure.

So, I'm thinking about buying one or both of these to potentially fill in decal outlines in the future:

Classic Metallic Pitt Artist Pens 3Ct Set (Design Memory Craft):Amazon:Home & Kitchen

Faber-Castell Artist Brush Pens (Set of 6) Color: Landscape:Amazon:Home & Kitchen

Any thoughts? (Hopkins?) They're India Ink, it says waterproof, lightfast, archival, and I like the color options (there are several other sets as well).

 

[Hopkins]

Any thoughts? (Hopkins?) They're India Ink, it says waterproof, lightfast, archival, and I like the color options (there are several other sets as well).

You will just have to do some experimenting. When you print your logos on decal paper (ink jet, not sure how the laser paper works), the ink needs to be bonded with a clear finish. I just spray a light coat of rattle can lacquer over it. The paint pens I use are oil based, and the lacquer melts it so I have to bond the ink first, let it dry then fill in the color. If those pens you linked run at all in the water, you may have to use them with some sort of bonder as well. The only reason they wouldn't work is if the bonder and the water melted the ink.

 

[BassHappy]

Here are my decal tests, now that it's too late for the bass:

I decided to try to color over some of the colors with a silver sharpie and put them on backwards, along with the regular, non-sharpied ones facing the right direction. The logo is pretty small and the Sharpie was not fine-tipped, so you can definitely see where I colored outside the lines, but it's just a test. Also, I'm not going to continue spraying more finish over them because I'd like to use most of this wood for something and I don't want to give myself too much to sand off.

I'm kinda liking that outline one (top, left on the black limba). I also think everything showed up pretty nicely on the white side of the limba. Black shows up good on the mahogany as well. Turquoise really pops on the wenge when it has the silver behind it. The one above the turquoise is the one that matches what I put on the truss rod cover.

BassHappy, the mother of pearl decal is on the bottom left of the walnut. I like that the best of the silver or white ones. The one above it looks white, but is actually just silver Sharpie. One of the silver-ish ones on the white part of the limba might also be a pearl one, I can't tell for sure.

So, I'm thinking about buying one or both of these to potentially fill in decal outlines in the future:

Classic Metallic Pitt Artist Pens 3Ct Set (Design Memory Craft):Amazon:Home & Kitchen

Faber-Castell Artist Brush Pens (Set of 6) Color: Landscape:Amazon:Home & Kitchen

Any thoughts? (Hopkins?) They're India Ink, it says waterproof, lightfast, archival, and I like the color options (there are several other sets as well).

Hey Lisa

Great to see all the tests. Some of them do pop pretty nicely.

it's quick and easy for me to do a reflection in illustrator and send you a batch printed backwards if that helps, just let me know. Or if you want other sizes, that is cool too. And if you want to eliminate certain colors and have more of others, that is a snap. We are all learning from this - most of all me. I have never finished over a decal myself - but I got excited when Pat Wilkens had such great success with a couple of mine - and really liked them, and I wondered if maybe it could evolve into a little fun side business for me some day.

I got the graphics part pretty handled, but I am sure that serious decal printers are highly invested in real equipment. Plus the actual electroplating process or however they do the gold and silver metallic look is a bit of a mystery to me. I am sure others know much more than I do and can shed some light on this.

The pens and brushes both look like good ideas to me. Hopkins has a good idea - something I would never have thought to do in flipping it over and using the opposite side - that is for sure!

So let me know if you want a backwards batch and what colors you might prefer. So far, most of the decals I have made have been applied over maple which is obviously a wood very light in color - so they have worked fine. I am finding as I think you are - that the darker woods are much more of a challenge. I am anxious to see how my yellow-gold Les Paul decal looks over that black Gibson laminate. Will be interesting to see if it pops enough to be useful.

The bass is simply gorgeous! Amazing work....

I can't wait to see that beauty finished. You should be so proud!

PS What a great dog!

 

[BassHappy]

You will just have to do some experimenting. When you print your logos on decal paper (ink jet, not sure how the laser paper works), the ink needs to be bonded with a clear finish. I just spray a light coat of rattle can lacquer over it. The paint pens I use are oil based, and the lacquer melts it so I have to bond the ink first, let it dry then fill in the color. If those pens you linked run at all in the water, you may have to use them with some sort of bonder as well. The only reason they wouldn't work is if the bonder and the water melted the ink.

Hey Hopkins

No, the laser ones do not need to be sealed with any sprays. After drying for an hour or so, they are good to go, are colorfast - and won't deteriorate in water. Although I always like to give them overnight to cure.

Just so you know. I tried the ink jet ones first, with little success, and mapleglo was kind enough to point me in the direction of the laser ones. How you coming with yours, any news?

 

[Hopkins]

Hey Hopkins

No, the laser ones do not need to be sealed with any sprays. After drying for an hour or so, they are good to go, are colorfast - and won't deteriorate in water. Although I always like to give them overnight to cure.

Just so you know. I tried the ink jet ones first, with little success, and mapleglo was kind enough to point me in the direction of the laser ones. How you coming with yours, any news?

I've always used the ink jet paper because I can source it locally, but I have been meaning to order some laser jet paper. Its just one of those things that you don't think about until you need it. I haven't had a chance to look into the electoform decals yet. I did use the ink jet paper in a laser printer. I think it did something to the film because it would roll up into a tube as soon as it was wet enough to slide off the paper backing.

If you print Lisa another set of decals in reverse, it may be a good idea to use a slightly thicker outline.

 

[BassHappy]

I've always used the ink jet paper because I can source it locally, but I have been meaning to order some laser jet paper. Its just one of those things that you don't think about until you need it. I haven't had a chance to look into the electoform decals yet. I did use the ink jet paper in a laser printer. I think it did something to the film because it would roll up into a tube as soon as it was wet enough to slide off the paper backing.

If you print Lisa another set of decals in reverse, it may be a good idea to use a slightly thicker outline.

Hey Hopkins

Good idea. My story is that i don't have an ink jet printer, so I went to my local high-end and state-of-the-art Photo/Graphics shop here in New York with the disk and the paper - so they could print it super hi res for me. Unfortunately, the paper would not feed into their high end ink jet - the paper was too heavy. Then mapleglo pointed me to the laser printer decal paper and I was off and running.

 

[Hopkins]

Hey Hopkins

Good idea. My story is that i don't have an ink jet printer, so I went to my local high-end and state-of-the-art Photo/Graphics shop here in New York with the disk and the paper - so they could print it super hi res for me. Unfortunately, the paper would not feed into their high end ink jet - the paper was too heavy. Then mapleglo pointed me to the laser printer decal paper and I was off and running.

Ive been meaning to order some laser jet paper, laser jet gives a better black than Ink jet, so I think it would definitely make for a better decal.

 

[BassHappy]

Ive been meaning to order some laser jet paper, laser jet gives a better black than Ink jet, so I think it would definitely make for a better decal.

Hey Hopkins

You have to be really careful with the laser - once the printer is hot they can smear like crazy. I have my print dialog on - turn the printer on from cold and hit print as soon as it is ready. Works fine that way. If I am doing multiple sheets I always turn if back off and restart when it is cold.

 

[Hopkins]

Hey Hopkins

You have to be really careful with the laser - once the printer is hot they can smear like crazy. I have my print dialog on - turn the printer on from cold and hit print as soon as it is ready. Works fine that way. If I am doing multiple sheets I always turn if back off and restart when it is cold.

Thanks for the tip