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5 string buckeye burl/mahogany neck through

#641
lbridenstine said:
I wouldn't mind replacing the decal so I can color in the back like I did on the tests I did after the one on the truss rod cover. I was thinking even if the decal isn't the problem, I'd want to redo the decal as long as I'm working on it - and put it on a gloss surface. I'm not really excited about having to re-finish it though.
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you can still always put a matte finish over it. I've always had luck putting the decal over gloss then putting a thin coat of gloss over the top of all to help hide any transition between the under coats and the slide (the gloss will have a different sheen than the decal and it can show differation in the top coats)and then top that off with whatever type desired satin, semi, gloss or whatever .
 
#642
lbridenstine said:
Well... I thought I was done, but he sent me this picture last night and said the finish is blistering on the truss rod cover. Does anyone know what would cause this? I thought it looked like it got burned or something. He said it suddenly appeared within the last day.

tumblr_nr9p34ZgPT1qi8q1ao1_1280.jpg
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Geeeeeeez Lisa - I am so sorry you are having a problem with this...

I managed to find about the reverse fill process, not that it will help with the decal adhering. What I read said that the front of the decal is the same as the back as far as adhesion to the decal paper goes. What they suggested is to wet the decal, pull it off the sheet and restick it to the decal paper in reverse. Let it dry - you know REALLY dry - like several hours or overnight - and then fill in the outline as you want to from reverse, which is now facing forward. Use waterproof ink or paint of course. After you are done and the ink you used is nice and dry, you can then wet the decal once again and stick it on the surface the original way.

I hope this helps for you moving forward!
 
#643
BassHappy said:
Geeeeeeez Lisa - I am so sorry you are having a problem with this...

I managed to find about the reverse fill process, not that it will help with the decal adhering. What I read said that the front of the decal is the same as the back as far as adhesion to the decal paper goes. What they suggested is to wet the decal, pull it off the sheet and restick it to the decal paper in reverse. Let it dry - you know REALLY dry - like several hours or overnight - and then fill in the outline as you want to from reverse, which is now facing forward. Use waterproof ink or paint of course. After you are done and the ink you used is nice and dry, you can then wet the decal once again and stick it on the surface the original way.

I hope this helps for you moving forward!
Click to expand...

Thats too much work. All you have to do is flip your image before you print it
 
#645
I'm not sure if I have any of that size left. I feel like I used them all when I did the test decals because I thought I wouldn't be using that size any more and wanted to save the headstock sized ones. I'll have to check though.

I'm also not 100% convinced that the decal is even the problem until I see it in person. It's hard to tell from the angle of the picture, but to me, it looks like that bubble is between the A and B and above the decal, not on it. I could be wrong though.
 
#647
I still haven't seen the truss rod cover in person yet, it sounds like he might bring it over this weekend.

Until then... I got an expensive package from LMI yesterday, so I got all excited and took out everything that I've gathered so far for the next 2 guitars and laid it out for a picture (cell phone picture, and I'm wishing I would have thought to get out my DSLR before I put everything away...).

tumblr_nrk04bu18F1qi8q1ao1_540.jpg


I felt the need to splurge on some new small tools, so those are spread out in the picture. I'll go over things more in depth when I start a new thread.

I have another bandsaw blade that isn't in the picture and Rick (BassHappy) is being awesome and sending me some more decals soon. I also need a new can of tung oil sometime towards the end of these builds, but I'll wait on that for a while.

I need to pick up a piece of walnut as well. There's a local lumber barn that I haven't checked out yet, but have heard good things about. They apparently have TONS of black walnut and have better prices than some other places I've bought walnut from. They're also having a sale on lumber packs next month, so I think I'm going to check that out and see what their lumber packs consist of and buy the walnut there whether it's in a pack or not. So, that means I need to work on the non-walnut parts while I'm waiting.

Can anyone guess what's going where for these 2 guitars?
 
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#648
I'm bad at guessing but I see some buckeye burl hiding out in the back!

lbridenstine said:
I still haven't seen the truss rod cover in person yet, it sounds like he might bring it over this weekend.

Until then... I got an expensive package from LMI yesterday, so I got all excited and took out everything that I've gathered so far for the next 2 guitars and laid it out for a picture (cell phone picture, and I'm wishing I would have thought to get out my DSLR before I put everything away...).

tumblr_nrk04bu18F1qi8q1ao1_540.jpg


I felt the need to splurge on some new small tools, so those are spread out in the picture. I'll go over things more in depth when I start a new thread.

I have another bandsaw blade that isn't in the picture and Rick (BassHappy) is being awesome and sending me some more decals soon. I also need a new can of tung oil sometime towards the end of these builds, but I'll wait on that for a while.

I need to pick up a piece of walnut as well. There's a local lumber barn that I haven't checked out yet, but have heard good things about. They apparently have TONS of black walnut and have better prices than some other places I've bought walnut from. They're also having a sale on lumber packs next month, so I think I'm going to check that out and see what their lumber packs consist of and buy the walnut there whether it's in a pack or not. So, that means I need to work on the non-walnut parts while I'm waiting.

Can anyone guess what's going where for these 2 guitars?
Click to expand...
 
#655
BassHappy said:
Hey Lisa

Sounds great....

Are these commissioned, or for you, or undecided????
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Neither, really. I just came up with a million designs and wanted to start off with these two. I'm going to build them and just say they're for sale when they're done, most likely. They're going to be 7 strings and as of right now, I don't play 7 string. Everyone I know is into extended range instruments.
 
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#658
I'm trying to figure out a finish/decal schedule.

I can't give the decal a full 24 hours to dry, because if I wait more than 24 hours between spraying coats, I'm supposed to sand in between, which I can't do to a decal. And, I have a feeling I don't want to apply the decal to wet finish either.

I'm not going to be spraying finish until at least Tuesday and I'll probably do 3-5 thin coats of finish before applying the decal, meaning I will probably spray 3-4 coats Tuesday and 1 Wednesday before the decal.

I could spray a coat during my lunch break (11 a.m.), then after work, apply the decal (around 4 p.m.) and let it dry until lunch break the following day and spray more.

Or I could spray a coat after work, wait a shorter amount of time for the finish to dry before putting the decal on (maybe a couple hours), and give the decal a little longer to dry before spraying the next coat. The finish dries pretty quickly, so I think this option might be okay, but I don't really know.


Thoughts?
 
#660
I sanded back the finish (and epoxy) and started re-finishing.

tumblr_nslu5fiX3b1qi8q1ao3_1280.jpg


A week or so ago, I colored the back of one of the decals with a silver india ink pen to try to give it an opaque background to stand off of, but unfortunately, the ink didn't seem to want to stick to the decal paper. Every time I touched it, I'd get silver on my fingers and when I held it in the warm water the silver just started dissolving off. It's supposed to be water proof, but I think it just can't stick to this paper or something. Maybe I could try the spray-over-the-ink-with-clear coat-before-soaking method next time. I'm not sure if that would help in this case or not.

Luckily, Rick sent me more than one so I was able to use one that wasn't colored over with silver.

This looks MUCH better.

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I think with the epoxy gone, the burl isn't quite as dark and lets the color of the decal show more. Also, I realized that I had originally done the black laser toner transfer under the epoxy, so the other decal was on a faded black because of that too.

I'm re-finishing one of my other guitar's fretboards again, so I figured I'd put a decal on that one's truss rod cover while I'm at it too.

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I haven't started the clear over them yet.
 
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