BassHappy
Supporting Member
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
5 string buckeye burl/mahogany neck through
- Thread starter lbridenstine
- Start date
Ah, well good! I'm glad it turned out that way.
Congrats Lisa!
Definitely a barking animal!
Thanks!
Great looking and sounding bass! Must be a little surreal somehow to have all those hours of handwork result in something that will probably be around long after you. I hope to have the same experience someday. Props to Lisa.
Thanks!!!
It's kind of weird that someone else owns one of my basses now and is playing it at shows and stuff.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Two of my instruments just played 3 shows in London, including Download festival. Its a pretty cool feeling
That's awesome! Congrats!
Well, both of you have made some striking instruments, so enjoy the attention!
Thankss
Great watching you're development here. I remember your first threads where there were lots of oops and now you've made your first custom for a customer. Keep Rockin'
Those weren't that long ago either. I'm glad I'm improving and making less mistakes!
Wowza - that is what I call art! It's been an enjoyable thread Lisa - one of the best parts of TB. 
Wowza - that is what I call art! It's been an enjoyable thread Lisa - one of the best parts of TB.
Thanks for watching!
Well... I thought I was done, but he sent me this picture last night and said the finish is blistering on the truss rod cover. Does anyone know what would cause this? I thought it looked like it got burned or something. He said it suddenly appeared within the last day.
I haven't seen it in person, but I don't think so. I cut the decal really close to the letters.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Just think of it as a good reason to experiment more with your decal procedure. Just FYI, I always let my decals dry for 24 hours after application before applying any finish to them.
The adhesion on the decal is no good because of being placed on a matte surface.. basically like top coating over a bad coat of primer, it'll bubble and eventually come off. I'm getting away from them... The GOOD news for you is that you only have it on that truss cover.. AT least its not on the headstock..
"Surface preparation
It is vitally important to have a gloss or semi-gloss surface to apply the decals. If the model is painted with matt/flat paints, then the surface needs to have a couple of thin coats of gloss varnish, or Klear/Future to give it some shine.
Matt/flat paints leave a surface that is microscopically rough. If a decal is applied to such a surface then it will only make contact with the high points on the surface of the paint. When dry there will be thousands of microscopic air pockets under the decal which will appear as ‘silvering’ and will look terrible.
Some modellers will only varnish those parts of the model where decals are to be placed, but there is a danger of producing a ridge at the edge of the varnish. Most modellers will varnish the entire model because this is not only needed for decal application, but also makes it easier to apply filters and washes to the model.
The model can always be returned to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application with another coat of appropriate varnish.
Decal Solutions
Decal solutions from Humbrol and Microscale.
Although waterslide decals are intended to stick well to the model, in practice they only do this in ideal circumstances, such as when there is a perfectly flat surface. If the surface undulates or has texture, of if the decals need to fit over or around surface projections, then they need a little help.
Many companies produce two part decal solutions to help with the application of waterslide decals. The first part is painted on to the surface of the model. This makes it easier to slide the decal into the correct position and improves the adhesion of the decal. The second part is painted on top of the decal. This softens the decal and helps to make it conform to any irregularities in the surface. This second solution can be reapplied if the decal has not fitted well around any surface projections.
Once the second solution has been applied, the decal may appear to wrinkle and may look dreadful. However, do not touch it at this stage because it will be extremely elastic and fragile. As it dries the wrinkles should disappear and the decal will shrink back on to the surface and cling fast to any surface details.
These decal solutions vary in strength between different manufacturers. It is advisable to experiment a little when you use these solutions for the first time, or change brands."
"Surface preparation
It is vitally important to have a gloss or semi-gloss surface to apply the decals. If the model is painted with matt/flat paints, then the surface needs to have a couple of thin coats of gloss varnish, or Klear/Future to give it some shine.
Matt/flat paints leave a surface that is microscopically rough. If a decal is applied to such a surface then it will only make contact with the high points on the surface of the paint. When dry there will be thousands of microscopic air pockets under the decal which will appear as ‘silvering’ and will look terrible.
Some modellers will only varnish those parts of the model where decals are to be placed, but there is a danger of producing a ridge at the edge of the varnish. Most modellers will varnish the entire model because this is not only needed for decal application, but also makes it easier to apply filters and washes to the model.
The model can always be returned to a matt or semi-gloss finish after decal application with another coat of appropriate varnish.
Decal Solutions
Although waterslide decals are intended to stick well to the model, in practice they only do this in ideal circumstances, such as when there is a perfectly flat surface. If the surface undulates or has texture, of if the decals need to fit over or around surface projections, then they need a little help.
Many companies produce two part decal solutions to help with the application of waterslide decals. The first part is painted on to the surface of the model. This makes it easier to slide the decal into the correct position and improves the adhesion of the decal. The second part is painted on top of the decal. This softens the decal and helps to make it conform to any irregularities in the surface. This second solution can be reapplied if the decal has not fitted well around any surface projections.
Once the second solution has been applied, the decal may appear to wrinkle and may look dreadful. However, do not touch it at this stage because it will be extremely elastic and fragile. As it dries the wrinkles should disappear and the decal will shrink back on to the surface and cling fast to any surface details.
These decal solutions vary in strength between different manufacturers. It is advisable to experiment a little when you use these solutions for the first time, or change brands."
I wouldn't mind replacing the decal so I can color in the back like I did on the tests I did after the one on the truss rod cover. I was thinking even if the decal isn't the problem, I'd want to redo the decal as long as I'm working on it - and put it on a gloss surface. I'm not really excited about having to re-finish it though.
