I should preface this by saying the 5 string is an Ibanez Mikro 5 with a 28.6" scale strung with nickel round wounds and the 4 string is a 30" scale P bass strung with flats. The bass line of a song Im playing goes from G to A# to D. On the 5 string the boom of the D on the B string to the thinner sounding A# on the A string sounds terrible meaning I have to play the A# on the 6th fret of the E string. While that does sound better, its still boomy going from the low B to the E string. Playing it on my 4 string in drop D tuning sounds much more balanced, especially if I just play all the notes of the song (G, A#, D and F) on the E string dropped to D. I can even play the A# on the A string and it sounds ok. How do I get that low B string to not sound so boomy and have it more balanced when I go from the B to the E string? Just a matter of a lighter touch? EQ? Or is it just what happens with two completely different basses in scale sizes, pickups and strings? Thanks
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Pretty much that.
Any tips on managing the boomy B string? Lighter touch? lighter gauge? Its currently 130.
Rule of thumb I've always seen is a 5 string needs to be 35" scale length, otherwise the B is bleh. EDIT: This has been debunked by at least 3 other posts. "needs" is not an absolute.
I have identical Schecter Custom 4 and 5 string models. They make the 4 a 34" and the 5 is 35".
For your purpose (and my preference), maybe the Drop D is the better option. I almost always prefer it.
I have identical Schecter Custom 4 and 5 string models. They make the 4 a 34" and the 5 is 35".
For your purpose (and my preference), maybe the Drop D is the better option. I almost always prefer it.
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Tell that to Fender, Sadowsky, Michael Tobias... and many more makers that use 34" scale 5 strings necks quite successfully, some exclusively. Fodera also makes some 33" scale basses with B strings.
That said 28.6" is dang short to attempt a good B string tone and tension. Maybe try some flats on that one, that could go a long way at tightening up the fundamental on the low string.
Also, perhaps an alternate tuning and a little lighter gauge. Talk to a good string guy like Jason from BassStringsOnline.com (@SLaPiNFuNK) to determine what might work for a DGCFA# tuning or something similar that can make that scale more useful.
Drop D is easy. Since you are using a short scale, a .110 set with a hex core will be fine. If you want even heavier, GHS makes a .115 Boomer set.
Thanks for the replies. Double E, I was considering some LaBella Deep Talkin flats on the Mikro. They make a 5 string short scale set and I love them on my P bass. Socialleper, I just have short scale LaBellas on the 4 string, no issues tuning my E to D with the 105 gauge. Ive even dropped to C# with no real issues.
Been doing that more now that Im using flats on my P and J basses. I hated the sound of a pick on rounds but really like it on the flats, especially on the P.
I agree with the scale issue: Your problem is getting a short scale 5 string with excellent string balance. Good luck with that.
Claiming that 35" scale is the only effective scale for a low B string seems to cause wads in many people's lingerie. There are plenty of 34"s that work fine, although my preference is 35" if I can get it. Since you only play shorties, you only play basses that have to compensate for the scale by increasing the gauge of the string. That's why your B is boomy. You get three options: a) switch to long scale, b) switch to lighter gauge strings at the expense of tension, and c) alternate tuning for the E string.
Enjoy!
Claiming that 35" scale is the only effective scale for a low B string seems to cause wads in many people's lingerie. There are plenty of 34"s that work fine, although my preference is 35" if I can get it. Since you only play shorties, you only play basses that have to compensate for the scale by increasing the gauge of the string. That's why your B is boomy. You get three options: a) switch to long scale, b) switch to lighter gauge strings at the expense of tension, and c) alternate tuning for the E string.
Enjoy!
D
Only yesterday after 2 long years, I managed to tighten up my B-string on my main 34" scale bass (frankenfender with EMG humbuckers)
Here is what I did:
My first results were promising, but that is possible prone to changes.
Good luck!
Here is what I did:
- swapped out EMG DC40 pickup at the bridge for a EMG 40CS (EMG luna/fanatic in here)
- installed an EMG mid control (I used the BQS)
- changed string gauge from 45-65-80-100-130 to 50-70-85-105-135 (Ernie Ball regular Slinky to Power Slinky)
- will probably change the gauge again to Sadowsky Blue label .130 (hex core vs round core)
My first results were promising, but that is possible prone to changes.
Good luck!
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LOL so not true. My ESP was 34 and has a great sounding B string. Proper set up, the right strings and knowing how to EQ will get you there.
Rule of thumb I've always seen is a 5 string needs to be 35" scale length, otherwise the B is bleh.
I read it on the Internet, so it must true.
I read it on the Internet, so it must true.
Ric5
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- Jan 29, 2008
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It's the bass, I've seen a lot of ppl chase the bad b on here when it was the bass. They could've got a good b if they just moved on. With manufacturing and qc what it is now i am sure you can find an bass with a nice b somewhere for cheap.
My three B strings are 34", 35" and a bit over 36".
In terms of playability and tension, the longest is best, but in terms of sound, the 34 can compete. It's just not as fast and you need to watch out how you play it.
OP have you tried moving your right hand?
I usually play over the neck or in extreme cases, over the neck PU. On the 34" my hand moves further towards the bridge when i play B and E string stuff. That compensates for the lack of tension and makes the sound a bit less boomy.
In terms of playability and tension, the longest is best, but in terms of sound, the 34 can compete. It's just not as fast and you need to watch out how you play it.
OP have you tried moving your right hand?
I usually play over the neck or in extreme cases, over the neck PU. On the 34" my hand moves further towards the bridge when i play B and E string stuff. That compensates for the lack of tension and makes the sound a bit less boomy.
