I have one half glued and trimmed further to size. Once the other side has dried and been trimmed its off to the spindle sander to refine the shape before gluing to the neck blank.
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Mucho helpful, thanks. I too may have being flexing the table down as you indicate. I will have to play with it some more.@rudy4444 is a master with this.
I have had some amateur trials and tribulations...
One thing I discovered was that I had been putting a lot of downward pressure on the piece when running it through (mainly because I was apprehensive in its use), that caused the table on my cheap drill press to bend down slightly during the "cut" resulting in upward pressure of the wood onto the planer when released. I hope that's somewhat clear...
Another thing I found is that some woods (e.g. purpleheart) just don't work well with this tool, burns and chatters, whereas others (e.g. walnut) plane like butter.
YMMV, as they say, but I think it's also a matter of practice and technique.
Yes it was one of two perfectly quartersawn pieces I found at local exotic wood store. Bought them about twelve years ago. One made it into my five string and this one is becoming a six. I doubt I will ever do another with ebony due to its rarity now. My saving grace with these boards is I got about ten bass fingerboards and six guitar fingerboards from the off cuts and I have enough ebony for trim and inlays for my lifetime.I love that piece of ebony, great centerpiece for this instrument.
Maybe if enough people pressed them KTS might make again? From my contact with them they had indicated a few end user complaints regarding stiff threads when making adjustments. All titanium has more friction thread to thread so prelubing and insuring no glue gets to the rod is important. I wouldn't mind participating in a campaign to bring them back? They are really cool and the quality is above anything I have ever seen.Dang, those are some pretty truss rods!
Just look at those tiny perfect little weld beads!
Amazingly good craftsmanship there.
Kinda geeking out here... but damn!
Too bad the manufacturer quit making them.
Question for you @Slidlow
Do feel it necessary to "wash" the joint when gluing ebony? As in, using acetone or similar, to remove the oils from the surface...for better adhesion?
I haven't really either... but the "wood data base" online, states it as such... and recommends the washing procedure I mentioned, which I totally agree with for woods such as Teak for instance. But not so much with the ebony I've come across.I haven't found the ebony I have used to be oily