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6 string Fretless with Ebony Neck
- Thread starter Slidlow
- Start date
Okay so I need a control panel for the side of this bass. Start with a thin piece of aluminum and glue to a piece of ebony.
Next trim to width and sand the face of the ebony.
Then use a steel plate I had for a template to drill and file the slots.
Then realize this one will be too thin and start over again.
This is just the first layer. It has to be cut to length and the ends rounded but first the second layer needs to be made and glued on. More to come.
Next trim to width and sand the face of the ebony.
Then use a steel plate I had for a template to drill and file the slots.
Then realize this one will be too thin and start over again.
This is just the first layer. It has to be cut to length and the ends rounded but first the second layer needs to be made and glued on. More to come.
Countersunk for the pot attaching screws and mounted them up to check the assembly. Next is the top part of the ebony assembly.
Thanks, This will be side mounted like my five string but different. The five had an outsourced preamp that had to be fitted. This 6 string is getting a Richter piezo preamp and just a simple volume and tone basically to cover the slot the preamp will be inserted into. I am not routing any control cavities from the front or back.Nice, I like the look of those sliders, very 80's and I don't mean that in a critical way...
next step complete. I bit taxing but got it done. Needed to cut two slots in a block to glue on top of the previous piece. This will get rounded ends and be trimmed in height. First I have to cut the recess into the edge of the body then this can be fitted. Last it will be trimmed down to the same profile as the body. Wait and see.
Well New Years is here! Back to this little bit. First I trimmed the ends and rounded by disk sander and file.
Then fit to opening in the side of the body.
and finally brought it down to close to flush. The final trimming will be done with this in place so the control panel has the same round overs as the body and fits completely flush. Once the pots are installed with a small etched circuit board and connections made to the Richter preamp the panel will be held with two small black oval head screws.
Then fit to opening in the side of the body.
and finally brought it down to close to flush. The final trimming will be done with this in place so the control panel has the same round overs as the body and fits completely flush. Once the pots are installed with a small etched circuit board and connections made to the Richter preamp the panel will be held with two small black oval head screws.
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Sorry I missed a step. cutting the recess in the body wing. I did it by clamping the body at the right angle and using a forstner bit to cut to two separate depths. One for the panel mounting and all the way though for the electronics. Got caught up in the work and forgot to take pictures. I have some cleanup still to perform on the inside as it is still a little rough.
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Started to slot the neck for the truss rods. This is just a simple guide I had made some years ago stuck in place with double sided tape. I make several light passes to get close to the final depth and finish with a round bit for the last part. A little trimming for the end blocks and the rods can be installed. This neck is getting two rods. Starting on the bass side for no particular reason and will do the treble side after.
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As I am routing for truss rods I'll talk about them a little. I am using two titanium rods I bought from KTS some time ago. This has a solid ebony neck so I need to mitigate the weight factor and this is one way. Also I need two rods to be sure to be able to move this neck if needed. Now the great thing is two of these titanium rods weight less then one stainless steel rod. So I will save about a 1/2 pound over having to use steel.
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I have built 5 bases with ebony necks, and for each one, I kept the strap button on the upper bout in alignment with the 12th fret. This in conjunction with ultra light tuners results in no head dive.
I really like the feel of an ebony neck as well. Not enough "o's " in smoooooooth to describe it.
I really like the feel of an ebony neck as well. Not enough "o's " in smoooooooth to describe it.
The ebony is nice. On the five string I completed about five years ago the strap button is about at the 14th fret. Due to careful body design neck dive is a non issue. That one had a single stainless rod. So here I am using two of the titanium rods and slightly lighter tuners then on the five. Counting the extra thickness of the ebony I expect no issue with neck dive. Also I have the ebony through the body which helps to balance out. The five weighed in at just shy of 12 pounds and I believe the 6 will be about the same. These two will probably be the only ebony ones I will build and both are for myself as I do not have issues with the weight. Thanks.
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To route the truss rod channels I started with 6mm (the rods are sized metric) for the top and ends. Switched to a 5mm for the rod channel and used a 5/16 bit for clearance around the adjuster at the heel.
6mm straight cut for the top channel and the ends.
5mm round bit for the rod channel.
One rod in.
6mm straight cut for the top channel and the ends.
5mm round bit for the rod channel.
One rod in.
There both truss rods routed in. Some final trimming and then to prep the fingerboard and get ready to glue it on. One of the last shots of the titanium rods I will be able to take.
Since it was brought up I will address neck dive on this design. Here is a picture of my 5 string with ebony neck through and padauk body wings. It balances pretty much where I place it. I can have the neck straight out or at a high incline but I like it about where it is shown in the photo. No tendency for neck dive.
So I took a left over piece of ebony and taped it to the front and hung an extra spare tuner off the headstock and got no change to balance. If I were to use standard pickups I would probably chamber the body to offset the weight of the pickups but I would probably not reduce the overall weight. Anyway these are personal instruments and I have no issue with their weight. This six will hit the 12+ pound mark which is probably too much for a good number of people. I am not interested in that debate though. To each her/his own.
I have made several using this design all 4 and 5 strings of differing weights (due to materials) and the design is pretty much proven from an aesthetic and ergonomic standpoint. I was a little curious about the balance for the 6 string but after this little adventure I have no worries.
So I took a left over piece of ebony and taped it to the front and hung an extra spare tuner off the headstock and got no change to balance. If I were to use standard pickups I would probably chamber the body to offset the weight of the pickups but I would probably not reduce the overall weight. Anyway these are personal instruments and I have no issue with their weight. This six will hit the 12+ pound mark which is probably too much for a good number of people. I am not interested in that debate though. To each her/his own.
I have made several using this design all 4 and 5 strings of differing weights (due to materials) and the design is pretty much proven from an aesthetic and ergonomic standpoint. I was a little curious about the balance for the 6 string but after this little adventure I have no worries.
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This is the first of this design built in 1985 and it came in at 9 pounds 3 ounces. Maple neck through with ebony and black walnut for the body.
And this one with a Macassar ebony neck with weighty pickups, thicker neck and a fairly heavy bridge hit 11 pounds.
None of these are light weights but that has been due to choices for material and hardware. Chambering and other means of lightening could be done for sure if required. Despite the weight disadvantage the balance of all of these is excellent.
And this one with a Macassar ebony neck with weighty pickups, thicker neck and a fairly heavy bridge hit 11 pounds.
None of these are light weights but that has been due to choices for material and hardware. Chambering and other means of lightening could be done for sure if required. Despite the weight disadvantage the balance of all of these is excellent.
