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Acoustic Electric Bass

#161
Dadagoboi said:
Bondo will do the trick. Adheres great to 'Fiberglas and sands much easier. There's also catalyzed body putty. Or just another resin coat minus the fabric will help level things out.
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I thought about using bondo, and I still may, but it's heavy, and I may have to use a bit to smooth out some areas. My inclination at this point is to buy a can of that textured paint and spray on a coat on to see how it looks. I've been trying to keep this low budget as well. I have a little resin left, but I was hoping to use that to bond the top to the shell.
 
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#162
mapleglo said:
1zx9pq1.jpg


2qc4278.jpg
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Ever the artist, I like the way it looks at this stage. And pushing the envelope it would look amazing with LED's inside that articulated different areas randomly. Very cheesy sci-fi vibe ("IT'S ALIVE!") :wideyed:
 
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#163
JIO said:
Ever the artist, I like the way it looks at this stage. And pushing the envelope it would look amazing with LED's inside that articulated different areas randomly. Very cheesy sci-fi vibe ("IT'S ALIVE!") :wideyed:
Click to expand...

You are too kind :)

Keeping the shell translucent would be very cool, and that's a great idea. Especially with placing lights inside. Unfortunately, my shell is not nearly consistently translucent, and there's more than a few spots where I believe there are air pockets or other issues that would show. I have to imagine that Ovation uses a two part mold - an outer mold, into which they partially fill with a fiberglass/resin slurry, and an inner mold, which is pressed into the outer mold. That would create a nice, smooth consistent shell. I think they must use a "textured" mold, and they also put some black dye in with the slurry. The end result would be their classic textured shell. They likely need no sanding or treatment, except perhaps around the edges.

No, I'm going to have to use some of that textured paint to cover the multitude of sins on my shell.

Speaking of which, I did some additional sanding in an effort to get it smoother. I ended up sanding through a small area. I took another look at the remaining resin, and figured I have just enough resin and hardener for two small batches. So I pulled a fiberglass cloth scrap out of the garbage, mixed up a little resin, and patched where I sanded through. Then I used the rest of the resin batch to cover the entire shell, hoping it would fill some of the depressions that I was unable to sand out.

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5juwes.jpg


You can clearly see some of the "white" areas which I believe are either air pockets, where one layer didn't where adhere well to the layer beneath, or areas that I sanded which in turn lifted off some of a layer. I'm not really sure. In any event, I'll take another look at it when it's cured, do some final sanding to get it as smooth as possible (without sanding through anywhere), and then pickup some textured paint and spray it tomorrow. I'd also like to stop by the wood store so see if they have any inexpensive maple for the top. Though I have been thinking that there might be a way to remove the top from the other shell, rout it down to reduce weight, and re-use it.
 
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#165
wraub said:
I also suggest spruce for the top, but, if you can re-use the other top, then definitely go with that.

I also also commend your "just do it" attitude and stick-to-it-iveness with your projects. Please continue your efforts. :)

Watching...
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Yes Mapleglo

I agree wholeheartedly - very inspiring to see how you stick with it and continue with a flow of new ideas! I think using the original top, if it can be planed or routed thinner is a superb idea. It's a pretty fine balance between weight and thickness but I think you can nail it with some TLC. Plus recycling the top is a win win for everyone!

I will check in here, anxious to see how the textured paint works out for you! Here is a shot I found of the Rustoleum textured paint and how it dries:

DSC_3673.jpg
 
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#166
Thanks!

I disassembled the existing version, and for some reason, it appears that the existing top may be just slightly too narrow up by the top. I can't imagine how that can be, as both shells were made from the same body, and there's even another layer on the first shell. I was hoping to save some work but it doesn't look like that's going to happen. Thinking about it, I seem to remember that when I laid down the layers of cloth originally, there was a portion that extended beyond the shell, where I stapled it down. I used some of that extra length to increase the size of the body, thinking that it may offer a bit more bass response. So that's likely why the top is just slightly too small.

I also realized while looking over the existing parts, that I sanded off the center line on the new shell. So yeah, I have some work cut out for me. The good news is I get to go wood shopping :) I'll have to see if they have any spruce.
 
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#168
mapleglo said:
Thanks!

I disassembled the existing version, and for some reason, it appears that the existing top may be just slightly too narrow up by the top. I can't imagine how that can be, as both shells were made from the same body, and there's even another layer on the first shell. I was hoping to save some work but it doesn't look like that's going to happen. Thinking about it, I seem to remember that when I laid down the layers of cloth originally, there was a portion that extended beyond the shell, where I stapled it down. I used some of that extra length to increase the size of the body, thinking that it may offer a bit more bass response. So that's likely why the top is just slightly too small.

I also realized while looking over the existing parts, that I sanded off the center line on the new shell. So yeah, I have some work cut out for me. The good news is I get to go wood shopping :) I'll have to see if they have any spruce.
Click to expand...

Hey Mapleglo

Yes, sounds like a little more work ahead. I did find this on the Sweetwater site:

Spruce
Spruce is a standard material for tops, the most commonly used species being Sitka. Its high rigidity, combined with the lightweight characteristics of most softwoods, makes it a natural for high velocity of sound. Sitka spruce also has a powerful direct tone capable of retaining its clarity when played forcefully.

Good luck with the next phase!
 
#170
Thanks for the info! Doesn't look like the Woodworkers Source carries it. It keeps bringing up Cypress. I can order the AA grade big enough for the top from StewMac for $22.06 plus shipping. There are no local sources according to Google. Hmmmm.

Sollie7 said:
rustoleum also makes filler primer.
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I think the shell may be smooth enough at this point where I'll not need to fill it. But I'll have to do a bit more sanding to see for sure. Thanks for the tip!
 
#173
Sollie7 said:
Could you just brace the top really good and use a couple plywood-ed veneers for the top? Then you could use whatever kind of wood you want and itd still be light, prob cheaper too.
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Funny that you mention that. I was just looking at my scrap pile and I do have some 1/4" plywood big enough for the top. I understand they use plywood for upright basses for some of the entry level models. I also have some maple veneer that I could use to cover it.
 
#175
So I spent about an hour and a half sanding so see how smooth I could get the shell. I was right about those white spots, being areas where one layer didn't adhere well to the layer below. When I got to a few of them, that white area just peeled off, sometimes leaving a crater as deep as 1/8". So I mixed up the smallest batch of fiberglass resin I've ever mixed, likely less than an oz, and did my best to fill some of them.

2zqx9xs.jpg


21cgp4x.jpg


I started thinking that knowing what I know now, I could make a better shell for as little as say $25.00, but stopped myself. I didn't want to turn into my friends dad, who spent his retirement making better and better letter openers. After a few hundred, he was still making newer and better ones. At some point, I just have to stop, and do the best i can with what I have. This was supposed to be a low budget, exploratory concept build.

Anyway, I think I'll go over to Home Depot, see about that Rustoleum filler/primer, or bondo, and get some of that textured spray paint. And then start on the plywood top. I've been thinking I could make a maple frame/brace to which the neck, pickup, and bridge will attach, and lay the plywood over that.

Then I try to start up Illustrator, to make an illustration of what I'm thinking, and apparently, since "upgrading" my Mac to Yosemite Sam, I need to "upgrade" my Java. Why do all these "upgrades" seem to make everything run slower?
 
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#176
mapleglo said:
So I spent about an hour and a half sanding so see how smooth I could get the shell. I was right about those white spots, being areas where one layer didn't adhere well to the layer below. When I got to a few of them, that white area just peeled off, sometimes leaving a crater as deep as 1/8". So I mixed up the smallest batch of fiberglass resin I've ever mixed, likely less than an oz, and did my best to fill some of them.

2zqx9xs.jpg


21cgp4x.jpg


I started thinking that knowing what I know now, I could make a better shell for as little as say $25.00, but stopped myself. I didn't want to turn into my friends dad, who spent his retirement making better and better letter openers. After a few hundred, he was still making newer and better ones. At some point, I just have to stop, and do the best i can with what I have. This was supposed to be a low budget, exploratory concept build.

Anyway, I think I'll go over to Home Depot, see about that Rustoleum filler/primer, or bondo, and get some of that textured spray paint. And then start on the plywood top. I've been thinking I could make a maple frame/brace to which the neck, pickup, and bridge will attach, and lay the plywood over that.

Then I try to start up Illustrator, to make an illustration of what I'm thinking, and apparently, since "upgrading" my Mac to Yosemite Sam, I need to "upgrade" my Java. Why do all these "upgrades" seem to make everything run slower?
Click to expand...

Hey Mapleglo - I sympathize with the computer thing - that is why I stay with Snow Leopard. Until Apple merges the iPad/iPhone/Computer into one OS and you know they will when the technology allows it - I want nothing to do with these intermediate OS's. And yes, it's upgrade city - the only way they can make dough and keep the third party vendors happy at the expense of the customer base.
 
#177
BassHappy said:
Hey Mapleglo - I sympathize with the computer thing - that is why I stay with Snow Leopard. Until Apple merges the iPad/iPhone/Computer into one OS and you know they will when the technology allows it - I want nothing to do with these intermediate OS's. And yes, it's upgrade city - the only way they can make dough and keep the third party vendors happy at the expense of the customer base.
Click to expand...

I didn't upgrade to the previous version,but when Yosemite came out, I didn't want to be too far behind. So I installed it. What a mistake. I'm still trying to find this "Legacy Java SE 6 Runtime" thingy.

Well, it's still better than Windows. Small consolation.
 

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