Advice how to repair?

[ardgedee]

Actually now that I have the tuner off it’s looking worse than I initially thought. The crack seems to extend into the hole. Might be taking it back again.

If the crack reaches the tuner hole it might not be a cosmetic problem any more.

Did the crack look different before and after you removed the tuner?

 

[Not Insane]

I should have clarified it’s definitely a crack through and not a scratch and it can be spread yes.

When I'm doing woodwork on antiques, I throw some Titebond II in and clamp it. And wipe off the excess while it's still wet. The main reason is to keep it from cracking more.

 

[Not Insane]

Actually now that I have the tuner off it’s looking worse than I initially thought. The crack seems to extend into the hole. Might be taking it back again.

Yes. The lighting on the first picture caused the crack to "disappear" before it got to the hole. It's a hassle, but I'd return it. And I HATE returning stuff.

 

[Michael Sherry]

I’d still pitch a fit for a partial yet sizable refund.

Yeah, GC screwed up big-time. The proper way to ship something like that is to wrap it up then put it in a box, THEN put it in another box. The store manager definitely needs to know about that. Shipping products is a Big part of what these places do, day-to-day. Light up the store manager and see what they can do for you.

 

[1String]

Use a stabilizing pin across the crack. Before the glue dries, drill a hole from the side of the headstock across the crack, put some glue in the hole and thread a small brass machine screw into the hole matching thread's minor diameter. Then cut the end of the screw off when glue's dry. You'll end up with a brass "spot" on the edge of the headstock and a tuning post which will be completely stable under string tension. It will NEVER crack there again.

 

[Gervais Cote]

I would return it but I had good success with the ultra liquid Superglue for such repairs.

Just open the crack a bit and insert something like the tip of a toothpick and make sure the glue penetrates fully in the crack. Then, remove the toothpick and clamp for one night.

If the crack can be opened larger, thinned wood glue also works well.

 

[Zooberwerx]

If kept and a candidate for repair, I’d blow-in some slightly diluted TiteBond and clamp…bonus points if you can fabricate conforming cauls. The fissure will self-clamp to some extent but external clamping is the trick for a truly permanent repair. The excess squeeze-out can be easily removed w/ soap & water…CA is a royal PITA if there is overflow.

 

[Water buffalo]

Your best bet is to ask about this in the Luthier's Corner forum.

https://www.talkbass.com/forums/luthiers-corner.57/

 

[Reedt2000]

Then what Jeff Scott said is the proper way.

I agree

 

[Wyvern]

Neeeh, return it, once you monkey with it it's yours.

 

[SoonerBill]

Even with the crack to the tuner hole a good Titebond repair will be fine. Just make sure the surfaces are coated well and clamp it tight.

 

[TomB]

Use a stabilizing pin across the crack. Before the glue dries, drill a hole from the side of the headstock across the crack, put some glue in the hole and thread a small brass machine screw into the hole matching thread's minor diameter. Then cut the end of the screw off when glue's dry. You'll end up with a brass "spot" on the edge of the headstock and a tuning post which will be completely stable under string tension. It will NEVER crack there again.

I like this idea. It’s very “final”. It had occurred to me that a slotted dowel could accomplish an equally final repair, but the brass pin esthetic appeals to me and the threads add strength to the repair.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I like this idea. It’s very “final”. It had occurred to me that a slotted dowel could accomplish an equally final repair, but the brass pin esthetic appeals to me and the threads add strength to the repair.

If this were truly a load-bearing member, I’d be a little more concerned re: reinforcement. I would sand the hole a tad as a too-tight ferrule may have been contributory. Seen similar with Fender E machine heads but usually traced to a mounting screw.

 

[TomB]

If this were truly a load-bearing member, I’d be a little more concerned re: reinforcement. I would sand the hole a tad as a too-tight ferrule may have been contributory. Seen similar with Fender E machine heads but usually traced to a mounting screw.

So you’re in the wait and see mode, which was my first thought. I agree nothing dramatic is likely expected, though I still think the brass pin is cool, even if unnecessary at this point. I like the idea of cleaning out the hole - a tight fit near the end of the headstock is asking for trouble.

 

[Zooberwerx]

So you’re in the wait and see mode, which was my first thought. I agree nothing dramatic is likely expected, though I still think the brass pin is cool, even if unnecessary at this point. I like the idea of cleaning out the hole - a tight fit near the end of the headstock is asking for trouble.

I’ll go one step further. I like to see the fissure fully open with the hardware in-place as I’m an opportunist. I do the glue-up and THEN remove the hardware and clamp. I hate prying stuff apart.

 

[TomB]

I’ll go one step further. I like to see the fissure fully open with the hardware in-place as I’m an opportunist. I do the glue-up and THEN remove the hardware and clamp. I hate prying stuff apart.

That would answer the necessity of repair question. Ok, OP, there you go. Have we heard from them lately?

 

[Lujon]

That would answer the necessity of repair question. Ok, OP, there you go. Have we heard from them lately?

I’m still here just taking it all in and trying to decide if I’m going to attempt a repair. As someone mentioned, once I start monkeying with it, it’s my problem.