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Double Bass AER Amp One VS Amp Two

Very cool Jacques. That's some upper frequency range on that tweeter - makes this a very good go at a full range cabinet. I'm definitely going to need someone to help do this, and to read the schematic. What is the crossover point? And was your friend kind enough to let you know the frequency response (with -3 and -10dB pints) of the combo before you did the mod? Just wondering; it may be proprietary info and not possible to discuss anyway. I have always wondered what Sica drivers were in this.

I frankly did not ask for all this info, I just asked him to design a tweeter upgrade that fits the amp he designed.
 
I don't know electronics, but are the poles on the Sica tweeter reverse-labeled in the schematic? Amp's + goes to tweeter's – .

Michael Eisenman (not the designer)

The answer from the other Michael Eisenmann

Die Polarität bzw. Phase des Hochtöners muss um 180° gedreht werden, damit die Frequenz- und Phasenverläufe der einzelnen Lautsprecher und des Filters im akustischen Summen-Frequenzgang im Bereich der Übergangsfrequenz keine Überhöhungen oder Einbrüche verursachen.

In (very) short: To obtain the best sonic result you must revert the phase of the Tweeter-
 
The answer from the other Michael Eisenmann

Die Polarität bzw. Phase des Hochtöners muss um 180° gedreht werden, damit die Frequenz- und Phasenverläufe der einzelnen Lautsprecher und des Filters im akustischen Summen-Frequenzgang im Bereich der Übergangsfrequenz keine Überhöhungen oder Einbrüche verursachen.

In (very) short: To obtain the best sonic result you must revert the phase of the Tweeter-


Hello Jaques,

I’m considering getting this mod done to my amp one. I live in Gemany and was wondering where you had the work done.

Thanks, James
 
Hello Jaques,

I’m considering getting this mod done to my amp one. I live in Gemany and was wondering where you had the work done.

Thanks, James
This is an easy modification. The connectors of the tweeter speaker have to be exchanged.
If they are soldered, you (or someone who can handle a soldering iron) need to unsolder both and then solder one cable to the opposite side and vice versa.
If the cables are not soldered onto the tweeter but connected by a removable connection (in German the connection is named "Steckschuh", also often used in cars too) then just pull them both off and reconnect them swapped.
 
This is an easy modification. The connectors of the tweeter speaker have to be exchanged.
If they are soldered, you (or someone who can handle a soldering iron) need to unsolder both and then solder one cable to the opposite side and vice versa.
If the cables are not soldered onto the tweeter but connected by a removable connection (in German the connection is named "Steckschuh", also often used in cars too) then just pull them both off and reconnect them swapped.

Thanks but there is no tweeter in the standard AER amp one. I was referring to the installation of a tweeter and whatever necessary parts come with it.
 
Ok, didn't read the whole thread.
The phase reverse for the tweeter is needed for a smoother frequency response because there is some movement of phase in the electronics to cut off the low frequencies for the added tweeter. The reversal of phase for the tweeter evens out highs and lows in the frequency response compared to a non-phase-reversed connection of the tweeter.
 
As well built and compact as these amplifiers are, I've played through an Amp One that belongs to a friend, and it

sounded like most well built high quality amps made here. For it's size and footprint the weight is a bit heaver then

I expected it to be. Definitely a nice amplifier, I've also played a Bass Cube I which had three channels. It had the

best DB sound of the AER's but was pretty heavy.