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AG700 - Clipping like crazy!

It sounds like when you have the "attack" parameter on a synthesizer all the way down, like a click/pop type of sound. I play synth bass a lot and I will usually match the volume of my moog to my bass - when the filter envelope would pulsate the amp would POP so loud that I thought it was the synth patch, but it was just extreme clipping.

I think the amp is probably fine and I just need more speakers to get to the volume I need, lol.
I don't use a synch myself so am not sure exactly what you mean but I agree completely that, as I said previously, you need a second (matching) cab to get the most out of this amp and the volume you want.
 
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Use that pad switch and start with the gain all the way off. Aguilar amps are a little different in that they will still work with that al
oh yeah. even with my passive basses, haha!

Sorry did see that mentioned. Aguilar amps will function with the gain rolled all the way down. If you start with it down all the way does it still clip? If so I'd do what other suggested and look for a messed up gain stage on a pedal or something. Kill the deep and bright for troubleshooting as well. They are adding a lot of gain, especially the deep which is +6db from 250 hz on down
 
That is the case - I think the answer here is more speakers. As for the high-pass filters, the idea is to remove boomy frequencies before it hits the amp - so you can make the most of the power let the amp do the work.

Wow. OK, IF you’re happy micro-adjusting the preamp down around the 9-11 o’clock range to eliminate that clipping and all’s well other than the rig’s max volume, then yes you simply need more cones.

IF you’d rather have more range on the preamp to avoid clipping, then we’re back to the start no matter what cabs you add.
 
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Wow. OK, IF you’re happy micro-adjusting the preamp down around the 9-11 o’clock range to eliminate that clipping and all’s well other than the rig’s max volume, then yes you simply need more cones.

IF you’d rather have more range on the preamp to avoid clipping, then we’re back to the start no matter what cabs you add.

Understood and much appreciated. I think it does have more to do with max rig volume and I'll likely add in a second cab at the next show. A 4ohm cab for single-cab affairs might also be a sensible way to go.
 
Use that pad switch and start with the gain all the way off. Aguilar amps are a little different in that they will still work with that al


Sorry did see that mentioned. Aguilar amps will function with the gain rolled all the way down. If you start with it down all the way does it still clip? If so I'd do what other suggested and look for a messed up gain stage on a pedal or something. Kill the deep and bright for troubleshooting as well. They are adding a lot of gain, especially the deep which is +6db from 250 hz on down

Another key thing I've learned today is that the deep switch adds 6db from 250hz... all the way down. I assumed it was just a sensible bump, not a full-on shelf! Will definitely keep that in mind.
 
Understood and much appreciated. I think it does have more to do with max rig volume and I'll likely add in a second cab at the next show. A 4ohm cab for single-cab affairs might also be a sensible way to go.

You’re gigging with a single 2x10 … with or w/o PA and stage monitoring (with bass in it)?, what’s the band configuration?, and in what type of genre/venues?

If you don’t mind saying.

Basically if an 8 Ohm version of a given cab won’t work for you, especially a cab with just 1 or 2 drivers, then neither will a 4 Ohm cab of the same type w/ same number of drivers.

Put another way, an 8 Ohm 4x10 will eclipse the same cab/drivers in a 2x10 4 Ohm config.

Still another way; you need 2x watts for a 3db increase in volume (3db being accepted as lowest amount of change in volume humans can reliably discern) and 10x watts to double perceived volume, all else such as EQ, placement/reinforcement, etc. equal.
 
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You’re gigging with a single 2x10 … with or w/o PA and stage monitoring (with bass in it)?, what’s the band configuration?, and in what type of genre/venues?

If you don’t mind saying.

Basically if an 8 Ohm version of a given cab won’t work for you, especially a cab with just 1 or 2 drivers, then neither will a 4 Ohm cab of the same type w/ same number of drivers.

Put another way, an 8 Ohm 4x10 will eclipse the same cab/drivers in a 2x10 4 Ohm config.

Still another way; you need 2x watts for a 3db increase in volume (3db being accepted as lowest amount of change in volume humans can reliably discern) and 10x watts to double perceived volume, all else such as EQ, placement/reinforcement, etc. equal.

Great to know! I don't even know of any 4ohm 210s that can handle 700 watts... I'd probably grab another 210 or get a 4ohm 410 for a 1-cab scenario. Really appreciate your insight.
 
Some people use a compressor at the end of the effects chain to even out the signal going into the amp. Good place to put it IMO.

Interesting idea - I have a compressor up front (after the thumpinator), I just wouldn't want to amplify the noise created by drive/fuzz/chorus/etc. Then I use a second HPF at the end of the chain (usually set no higher than 40hz) to get rid of any super-low end re-introduced by pedals.
 
Are you using the Broughton Low and High Pass Filter?

I used to use a HPF on one channel when I would split my signal. But it didn’t “tame” the peaks, it would completely cut them off.
It also could have an audible pop that I guess could be the sound hitting the threshold and coming through before the limiter would engage.

If your pedals are putting out bass peaks into the Broughton L&HPF, it could be doing something like that.

How does it sound without the Broughton?
 
CatDaddy plays their butt off...so it's probably just that the amp can't handle the extreme funk.....

Hey my friend! Those Aggie cabs sound amazing, but they don't generally push a lot of volume, and I would agree that you need more cones to get the job done....but I would also say to try eliminating the pedals and start from there. That amp slays. Definitely a favorite of mine.
 
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...Truly the whole setup is odd. TWO low-pass filters, then a 6db bass boost engaged? Seems quintessential TB to me, and very unecessarily complex. Take @RichSnyder ‘s advice to plug in directly and go from there. Less is more.

Very typical to use a hpf and then boost the bass freq's you want. The idea is to cut the sub lows you don't want and boost the lows you do. Sound techs have been doing this for years.

That said, the Broughton hpf/lpf can produce alot of gain by itself. My thought would be to trim that (if that is the Broughton you are using), disengage the deep switch and engage the input pad.
 
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I scanned through most of the thread and didn't see this question asked, apologies in advance if this has been answered and I missed it:

Have you tried plugging the bass straight in to the amp and setting a reasonable tone/level FIRST, and then re-introducing your effects? I'm curious if you are just adding a ton of cascading gain stages via incremental output level increases throughout the chain.
 
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I scanned through most of the thread and didn't see this question asked, apologies in advance if this has been answered and I missed it:

Have you tried plugging the bass straight in to the amp and setting a reasonable tone/level, then re-introducing your effects? I'm curious if you are just adding a ton of cascading gain stages via incremental output level increases throughout the chain.
Have you tried running you bass directly into the amp? If that solves the problem, re-introduce one pedal at a time until you find the culprit. Process of elimination.

Oops! someone beat me to it.

This is the place to start...you can't effectively troubleshoot anything if every possible cause is kept in play.