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Alembic Balance K "inspired" (semi-replica) build

#61
Gilmourisgod said:
I'm hoping you will tone down the typical Alembic "knob-itus" shown on the cocobolo example. I think once you get beyond 4 knobs and a couple switches, you have crossed over into Phil Lesh territory
Click to expand...
So, then I guess this might be a bit....excessive?
78281.jpg
 
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#62
If that's not photoshopped, the owner needs to seek the help of a Licensed Professional for help with OCD issues. Personally, I like master volume, treble, bass, and pup blend. Switches for active/passive and coil tap, and thats it. There's a video on Youtube of Lesh demonstrating his be-knobbed Guild Starfire, and he can't remember what half the knobs do. Silly stuff.
 
#63
^ I kind-of agree. There's a point when there are too many controls onboard. I like a master volume, pickup selector (either switch or blend), bass, treble, and mid. My thompson will have that, plus a mid-sweep on a concentric pot with the mid control, and coil taps for both pups. So 5+1 knobs and 2 switches. It's almost overboard to me, but I do have this +25dB gain toggle...
 
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#64
Hammer
That's a reasonable layout, sounds similar to what you find on an Ibanez SR series bass, which I think is about the high end of perfect. I once saw Geddy Lee's double neck Ric up close and in person, a sticky mess with all the knobs taped down at specific settings with gaffer tape! It looked like the knobs hadn't been fiddled in years.
 
#67
Jonny5bass said:
Man, this looks cool. Where do you find a resaw fence like that Rock?
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Sears I guess....my boss must have bought it years ago. it's actually a cheapo tennon cutting jig. I clamp it in place to use it as a fence.
2015-11-05 08.39.32.jpg

but you can buy tall fences made for band saws.
Google "tall bandsaw fence" or rip fence or some such. ....
 
#68
Dang! Thatt's a great idea. I have a Delta tenoning jig I could use for the same purpose. Never occurred to me. I have never tried re-sawing on my crappy Sears 12" bandsaw, always done the terrifying "saw half way through each edge of board on tablesaw" trick, then cut the remaining web with a handsaw.
 
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#69
Gilmourisgod said:
Dang! Thatt's a great idea. I have a Delta tenoning jig I could use for the same purpose. Never occurred to me. I have never tried re-sawing on my crappy Sears 12" bandsaw, always done the terrifying "saw half way through each edge of board on tablesaw" trick, then cut the remaining web with a handsaw.
Click to expand...
I've used the slightly less terrifying slot with slot-cutter on the router, then cut the remainder with a handsaw.
 
#70
I have a fairly large bandsaw at my disposal, but I have been largely unsuccessful at resawing. I watched a bunch of videos and I think my problem is using blades that are too small - It looks like you should use a 1" wide blade, minimum. I'm going to try that next time I try resawing.
 
#71
Jisch said:
I have a fairly large bandsaw at my disposal, but I have been largely unsuccessful at resawing. I watched a bunch of videos and I think my problem is using blades that are too small - It looks like you should use a 1" wide blade, minimum. I'm going to try that next time I try resawing.
Click to expand...


Seen this yet?



Alex Snodgrass bandsaw clinic.

For blades, I am told a Woodslicer 1/2" thin kerf resaw blade is good stuff for resawing.
 
#72
it really helps to have a band saw with some ballz.
Jisch said:
I have a fairly large bandsaw at my disposal, but I have been largely unsuccessful at resawing. I watched a bunch of videos and I think my problem is using blades that are too small - It looks like you should use a 1" wide blade, minimum. I'm going to try that next time I try resawing.
Click to expand...
I use a 3/4" blade (4 tpi) and have been having excellent results re-sawing everything I put through it:
hard maple, wenge bubinga, figured walnut...etc....
BUT... it wasn't always happy like it is now.
I couldn't manage a resaw to save my butt... THEN, I replaced all the guide wheels (bearings), and made sure they were aligning the blade properly, tightened the blade, squared & aligned the table/fence to the blade.... you'd be surprised how little a mis-alignment can completely trash your ability to cut straight resawing
 
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#73
Rôckhewer said:
it really helps to have a band saw with some ballz.

I use a 3/4" blade (4 tpi) and have been having excellent results re-sawing everything I put through it:
hard maple, wenge bubinga, figured walnut...etc....
BUT... it wasn't always happy like it is now.
I couldn't manage a resaw to save my butt... THEN, I replaced all the guide wheels (bearings), and made sure they were aligning the blade properly, tightened the blade, squared & aligned the table/fence to the blade.... you'd be surprised how little a mis-alignment can completely trash your ability to cut straight resawing
Click to expand...

Exactly. Aside from having the bearings set right, having the gullet/valley/bottom of tooth curvy on blade lined up on the crest of the upper wheel is critical.
 
#76
ok back to the build. ... (well, sorta)

I'm planning on using wenge for my fretboard.
What would be ideal from a structural standpoint would be a quartersawn piece. ...but with wenge, that would also be incredibly boring from a visual standpoint.
So the next best option is A piece that's exactly flat-sawn.
The only piece I have that fits that criteria, is only 2" wide. I was gonna use it for neck stringers .... (I still can), But here's another option. ... glue it together for a bookmatch fretboard.
problem is, there is too much movement & the grain didn't line up too well:
20151105_163208.jpg

I probably just have to find another plank for the fretboard, but I'd rather not use one with the end grain running at an angle :sour:

Heaven forbid I have to actually go & buy a board!:eek:
I guess I've gotten somewhat spoiled getting most of my woods for free, due to where I work;)
 
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#78
Jisch said:
I have a fairly large bandsaw at my disposal, but I have been largely unsuccessful at resawing. I watched a bunch of videos and I think my problem is using blades that are too small - It looks like you should use a 1" wide blade, minimum. I'm going to try that next time I try resawing.
Click to expand...

What bandsaw do you have access to exactly?

I have a Delta 14" with a 6" riser block that came stock with a 3/4 HP motor. After installing the riser, it became very apparent that that motor was not going to cut it, so I bought a 1.5 hp motor. Other than that a good fence and making sure your blade is perpendicular to the table are the two main things you have to get right.
 
#80
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