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Aligning mounting holes?

kirkdickinson

kirkdickinson

Supporting Member
Feb 25, 2012
4,045
10,731
Belmont County, Ohio - USA
#1
I have a roasted maple Warmoth neck on order and am going to build the body myself. When I ordered, I checked the option for "Standard 4 bolt" mounting holes. Just got to thinking... how do I get those holes from the body to perfectly align with the mounting holes in the neck? I was thinking that I could cut a paper template that fits over the heel of the neck and mark the holes, then put the paper in the pocket and transfer the location.

Is there a better way?

What is the thinking about using threaded inserts instead of screws? I have heard that the roasted maple is a little bit brittle and thought maybe inserts might be a better way to do it?

Also, what is the proper etiquette for posting about a build here? Should I put all my questions about this build in the same thread? Or should I ask different questions as they come up?

Thanks
 
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#2
I like to clamp the neck into the pocket and use a transfer punch that’s the same size as the holes in the body which should be 3/16” give or take.

If you don’t have transfer punches clamp the neck in the body, find a drill bit that fits the body screw holes snugly without removing material, turn the bit a couple of times by hand or run it backwards with a drill and you should have divots where the screws go.

Another thing to check is to make sure the neck screws you want to use slip easily through the body holes without having to be threaded through. If they don’t slip easily through then drill the holes out to the right size.
 
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#3
kirkdickinson said:
Also, what is the proper etiquette for posting about a build here? Should I put all my questions about this build in the same thread? Or should I ask different questions as they come up?
Click to expand...

Kirk, we'd prefer that you just start a build thread. The ongoing story of your project. Show us your steps along the way. Problems that turned up and how you solved them. What worked great and what didn't work and had to be done over. Ask questions in the thread. We'll be reading along, and we'll try to answer them. Sometimes in a quick paragraph, sometimes by referring you to some other thread for more detail. Then you update your thread with how you ended up solving the problem, what you did.

That's how we're trying to build up Luthier's Corner: A reference library of project stories, each showing how one person started from scratch and eventually reached a unique completed bass.

Mixed in are some threads where we all discuss some particular subject in great detail. You are also welcome to just post your question in one of those threads, if your question directly applies to the discussion.

We try to avoid having hundreds of separate threads asking the same questions, which have been discussed many times before. We'd rather that you ask the question from within your build thread.

These two questions that you asked here are both things that we answer frequently. Most of the threads and answers are over in the Hardware, Setup & Repair section, because they are often asked by folks putting together kit instruments.
 
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#4
I am assuming that the neck will arrive pre-drilled for the mounting screws?

You could screw some short socket-head set screws into the holes so the they barely protrude from the neck, and are also so short that they only go a few threads into the neck, and then put either a dab of paint, nail polish, or any substance capable of transferring a mark to the neck pocket, and simply fit it in place and apply enough pressure to transfer the marking material to the body. This should be close enough because the holes in the body are sized to be clearance holes for the screws you will use.
 
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#6
Sorry, I misunderstood the question. I have neck screws that are cut off and I ground a point on the cut end. I screw them into the neck holes so the points stick out approximately the same then press the neck heel into the body. I usually follow that up with a center punch to really mark out the centers. I like to start the holes undersized then drill to the final diameter from each side to help avoid chip out.
 
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#10
Yep, there are plenty of good techniques for transferring neck screw holes to a neck pocket.

A variant on the pointed screw method that Matt described is to find some short (like 3/8") #8 Round head screws. Phillips or slotted. Screw them in the holes in the neck. Position the neck carefully in the pocket, and press them together with a small amount of force. You get four little round dimples in the pocket. They'll work to locate the holes.

Drill a small pilot hole (like 3/32") in the center of the dimple, down through the back of the body. Then use a brad-point, coming in from both sides, to bring the hole to the final size. 7/32" is commonly used for #8 wood screws. I usually go 9/32" with 10-32 machine screws.
 
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#11
kirkdickinson said:
I have a roasted maple Warmoth neck on order and am going to build the body myself. When I ordered, I checked the option for "Standard 4 bolt" mounting holes. Just got to thinking... how do I get those holes from the body to perfectly align with the mounting holes in the neck? I was thinking that I could cut a paper template that fits over the heel of the neck and mark the holes, then put the paper in the pocket and transfer the location.

Is there a better way?

What is the thinking about using threaded inserts instead of screws? I have heard that the roasted maple is a little bit brittle and thought maybe inserts might be a better way to do it?

Also, what is the proper etiquette for posting about a build here? Should I put all my questions about this build in the same thread? Or should I ask different questions as they come up?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Transfer punch- no other way - get a set and be done with it.
 
#12
Gorilla Monsoon said:
Transfer punch- no other way - get a set and be done with it.
Click to expand...

Explain to me how this works? I know what a transfer punch is. Where do I punch from? The neck is drilled, the body is not.

Seems to me that a transfer punch would be excellent is the roles were reversed and the body had holes and the neck didn’t.
 
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#13
A set of transfer punches will allow you to exactly align your first of the four holes…Exactly…there’s not much to deviate from that from there. Next, you can take the back end from a common drill set to fill your second hole, and from there, you’re at the mercy of whoever put the neck on. Work diagonally something will line up..
 
#14
Gorilla Monsoon said:
A set of transfer punches will allow you to exactly align your first of the four holes…Exactly…there’s not much to deviate from that from there. Next, you can take the back end from a common drill set to fill your second hole, and from there, you’re at the mercy of whoever put the neck on. Work diagonally something will line up..
Click to expand...

OK I guess I’m a little dense. If I have a body with no holes through the pocket and and it already has pre-drill holes, where do I use the transfer punch? Once the neck is securely in the pocket, there is no hole to put the transfer punch into it
 
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#20
I believe what you want are blind hole transfer punches, I’m pretty sure cabinet makers call them blind hole spotters. They are avilable in many different sizes, or you could take your neck to a local job shop and have them turn you a set.
 
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