• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Alright, attempting to build a PVC EUB!

#41
Alright, made the decision, want to try steel flats or DB strings:eek:

Here might be a problem, the scale length is 42", not including the 3" on the tail piece or the 6" addition on the A and D string. Never though abut it before, but what is the standard length of electric strings? Don't know about spending $75 or more on upright strings (too much $!) Unless I can use the power of the carrot, to summon up a TB'er in my area that has a old set of DB strings?:p
If anyone has an old set, they can let go of for a cheap price, please PM me!:D
 
#44
Picked up the L.R. baggs preamp, made a huge difference, a little costly though, but well worth it! If you've had no prior expeirence with L.R. Baggs, the "Gig Pro" I highly suggest that model. Sound clips will be on the way once I get the time to do it.
Went on Evil bay, and ordered some upright strings (won't jynx myself, because of how much they cost, until i get my product).
Cecil ran the wiring inside the pvc and the jack is now mounted to the "body", near the fingerboard. (pics soon).
Should be starting on the "newer and improved" PVC models soon as well. Updates coming.
 
#45
Got the strings, it was a good deal for the strings $18 on e-bay.If you want the merchant's name, PM me.
Tzer, it worked, didn't have a bow unfortunately.
I believe this is the first pvc eub w/ nickel strings. It definately put some bend on it, but it's holding with a 440 tuning! Tightened the trussrod up though.

Pics for now, sound clips coming soon, need to make some improvements (like raise the fingerboard near the bridge, a little too high for my taste, very difficult to play as well).

Bass5006.jpg


Bass5008.jpg


Bass5009.jpg


Bass5010.jpg


Bass5011.jpg


Bass5012.jpg


I need run this through my protools to do it any justice.
Will be doing that shortly.
 
#47
HogieWan said:
I remember the original design having a spacer under the fingerboard.
Click to expand...

Yep, we did without that. I think that was a coupling, joining 2 pieces (I think the intent was to divert the bowing of that area, good idea on low tension strings, we added a "truss rod" to remedy the bow in the center, especially for high tension) I'm of the belief that it would have weakened the integrity besides, Beatcatcher's bass is using nylon strings, not metallic, theres a great deal more tension in comparison.

As always, if beatcatcher happens to see this, correct me if i'm being inaccurate.

***correction, was reading that Beatcatcher used square steel inside his.
 
#50
Dan1099 said:
I think I speak for everyone when I say "that thing is ****ing AWESOME!"
Click to expand...

I cannot say thanks enough.

We're now learning now what mistakes we have made and how to improve them.

Heres a summary:

1) The Headstock, we've rebuilt that. Having 3 fittings and 2 inside pieces for a headstock, 2 words "No Good", It literally weakened under stress and eventually leaned forward (still stayed in tune though). The remedy to that was making a headstock that comprised of a cap, reducer and the 3" pipe in between.3 pieces compared to 5 pieces. Much stronger.

2)The string spacing at the nut (that was my stupidity) strings were 3/4" apart at the nut (ridiculous right?) Now will be 1/2" apart. Was gonna do 3/8", which most electric and upright 4 string spacings are 3/8" apart ,felt right at 1/2".That in turn allowed us to narrow down the fingerboard

3)Redid the nut, I found that if you stack enough pieces of pvc, then grind it down with a belt sander, you can actually "sculpt" an given piece (pics to come on that), to whatever shape you like however, you will need to use polyurethane or desired chemical to put a finish on the sanded portion, to keep dirt and avoid your fingers from getting dirt on them.

4)Bridge was too high, knocked down that about 1/2".May have to take more off.:D

5)Maybe more improvements to come.
 
#54
SDB Guitars said:
This just ROCKS! That's ingenuity, right there... make a functional EUB out of plumbing parts.

I can't wait for the sound clips...

Subscribed!
Click to expand...

Good to see some subscriptions, especially a builder.

Sound clips have been delayed a bit, for some needed improvements, thanks for the patience.:cool:
 
#55
If you are reducing the string spacing on the nut (item #2) could you not also reduce the diameter of the headstock, putting less of a moment on the tuners by having a straighter string alignment and thus reduce the total stress on the headstock?
 
#56
etoncrow said:
If you are reducing the string spacing on the nut (item #2) could you not also reduce the diameter of the headstock, putting less of a moment on the tuners by having a straighter string alignment and thus reduce the total stress on the headstock?
Click to expand...

:cool:Although that would be a good idea to use a 2" headstock, it looks a bit like a "shrunken head":p. I can only theorize that no matter how much weight is dispersed in the headstock, the weight will only be pulled in that direction, regardless of the angle.One of the improvements we had done to the newer headstock, is not actually cut the bottom opening fitting on the reducer, but actually drill holes for the strings to come close to the nut width:).The second bass is also currently under way and is using a 2" headstock, besides, that headstock is extremely tight quarters with all 4 tuners inside of that 2".

Looks more like this now:

Bass7019.jpg


Compared to:

Bass5009.jpg
 
#58
Bad news on the sound clips, my computer that runs protools is giving me issues, I will do it another way.

Definite overhauls will be made:

Nut and headstock was redone

Bass7001.jpg

Bass7002.jpg

Bass7003.jpg


She's got some bow in her, plans to remedy that will happen shortly
Bass7018.jpg


Action is more tolerable:
Bass7020.jpg


Sneak preview of the nut and bridge on the second one:)

Bridge:
Bass7007.jpg


Nut:
Bass7008.jpg


When the second one is done, you'll see it is unlike the first one, in almost every aspect.But for now, we're leaving that one "under wraps".
 
#59
I am no engineer, but each time I look at your profile shots - even from the earlier ones where the action appears to be really hight, my first thought is, "What about a fingerboard that you can adjust?"

What I mean is, what if you had a mechanism under the end of the fingerboard that would allow you to raise it? Sort of like the screws under a projector. If the fingerboard were attached at the scroll end with some sort of flexible connection - hinged - and the other end had an adjustment mechanism, maybe you could just raise and lower the fingerboard to conform to the action.

In thinking about it, one thing I feel might be an issue would be stability of the fingerboard. Essentially having it 'float' as opposed to being fixed to the main pipe could make playing on it less responsive, but I don't know.

Actually - in looking back as some of the pics, I think some sort of height adjustment mechanisms along the length of the fingerboard might do the trick nicely. You would adjust the bottom one first, then adjust the ones between. Could work... What do you think?
 
#60
tZer said:
I am no engineer, but each time I look at your profile shots - even from the earlier ones where the action appears to be really hight, my first thought is, "What about a fingerboard that you can adjust?"

What I mean is, what if you had a mechanism under the end of the fingerboard that would allow you to raise it? Sort of like the screws under a projector. If the fingerboard were attached at the scroll end with some sort of flexible connection - hinged - and the other end had an adjustment mechanism, maybe you could just raise and lower the fingerboard to conform to the action.

In thinking about it, one thing I feel might be an issue would be stability of the fingerboard. Essentially having it 'float' as opposed to being fixed to the main pipe could make playing on it less responsive, but I don't know.

Actually - in looking back as some of the pics, I think some sort of height adjustment mechanisms along the length of the fingerboard might do the trick nicely. You would adjust the bottom one first, then adjust the ones between. Could work... What do you think?
Click to expand...

What we did for the time being, is wedge another piece of 4" under the fingerboard that gradually tapers as it gets closer to the nut, which seems to keep the fingerboard stabilized pretty good.

Also, I have discovered that a slight bow is becoming worse, and may worsen over time, to remedy this, we have discovered that if a piece of electrical conduit (steel) is used, this shall reduce the stress better than "all thread". Seeing as how the pvc is 2" inner diameter, that 1 7/8" steel w/ an outer layer of silicone will do the trick (silicone will kill the resonance of the steel). I will start recording sound clips later today regardless, which I will most likely post on myspace.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back