I have that same spray gun!
This should look pretty slick when it's all painted; can't wait.
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Alright, attempting to build a PVC EUB!
- Thread starter Rickett Customs
- Start date
I have that same spray gun!
This should look pretty slick when it's all painted; can't wait.
We were developing a way to create "ferrules" (though may be mis-spelled
) for the strings to go through the "headstock". We ended up drilling out short threaded rods, they look alot like rivets, cut them to length and tapped them in.
Body is primed up a bit more, still have more work to do to it before final paint though
"Overall" pics:
I think I can safely say, pages 1-3 on this thread are mostly "what not to do" compared to this one.
More soon
) for the strings to go through the "headstock". We ended up drilling out short threaded rods, they look alot like rivets, cut them to length and tapped them in.Body is primed up a bit more, still have more work to do to it before final paint though
"Overall" pics:
I think I can safely say, pages 1-3 on this thread are mostly "what not to do" compared to this one.
More soon
Will you put string furrells at the bridge end too? I'd think the PVC would wear through pretty quickly without reinforcement.
We thought about that for a bit, but alas, No material found for it yet.
Might find something for it yet.
/Jason
Might find something for it yet.
/Jason
this build thread has honestly inspired me, thanks dude, it's a project that I know will be emulated for TBers for many years to come
Perhaps a layer or two of that stuff guys put on the fretless finger board...resin or epoxy or something. I forget what it's called. Anyway it might harden that area up a bit.
Yep, The guy depicted in the picture at the top of this page, Chuck, he's good at doing epoxy, it's his job to do the overall epoxy work on it once we've completed all of our parts. The entire bass will receive epoxy once it's tested and done.The fingerboard will also be re-leveled, re-surfaced and also receive a few coats of high gloss white, before it's epoxied as well.
/Jason
Noticing the fingerboard is flat against the body instead of raised at an angle like uprights and most EUBs. Why?
Why not?
(I kid, I kid)The are a quite a few EUB's that are not raised though.
So far we've been able to not have any bowing with the steel, plus the bridge is not extremely high either, turned out it wasn't necessary, also it's a bit difficult to get something that would "taper" up the body, elevating from the nut to the end of the fingerboard. It is possible to do what you are saying though, would require more work, but I don't think it would be anything that would improve on it, me thinks it would be more "aesthetic" than function or physical preference if you may.
That may be something new to shoot for when making anymore in the future.
/Jason
i'm really just guessing here, but i would think the reason that an acoustic upright bass has a tall bridge and raised fingerboard is to allow for bowing of a single string without the bow hitting the body. that would also likely be the reason for the cutouts on the sides of the body of any instrument in the violin family.
none of that is an issue for a pvc bass.
none of that is an issue for a pvc bass.
I don't think you're guessing
That would be true to the way I know it at least. However, The height of the stings @ the bridge are much like that of an upright (So it can be bowed as well), without the rest of the body, so yes, that is a very good point that I overlooked,that you have pointed out.
/Jason
Showed my dad this thread recently. He's been working with materials like PVC for ever. He was genuinely interested in your project and decided to start a page one and peruse the whole thing.
Now you have to understand my dad and his tendency to automatically see where things were not done the way he'd do them and all that, but he was genuinely interested in this project overall, which is a good thing because when I do finally decide to build one of these (and I will at some point!), he'll be helping me big time.
Thanks again for all the amazing documentation! Priceless!
Now you have to understand my dad and his tendency to automatically see where things were not done the way he'd do them and all that, but he was genuinely interested in this project overall, which is a good thing because when I do finally decide to build one of these (and I will at some point!), he'll be helping me big time.
Thanks again for all the amazing documentation! Priceless!
That's what I want to see, someone to improve the work we're doing. That's basically what we did. Just remember to tell your dad, that I proclaimed that pages 1-3 are now mostly, what-not-to-do
/Jason
That's what I want to see, someone to improve the work we're doing. That's basically what we did. Just remember to tell your dad, that I proclaimed that pages 1-3 are now mostly, what-not-to-do
/Jason
Noted.
I think the value of your trial and error pages is very high and regardless of what anyone says after the fact, simply having those pages there to see why some thing work and others don't is fantastic!
Here are some shots of the bridge I'm going to put on this one.
Used a few tools for this one. I layed rubber tape under neath where the pieces rest.
3 piezos in this one. Very, very HOT signal! Plugged it in, at one point I cranked the gain on the preamp, it became microphonic! I could talk into it!
Still not done with it yet.....
More later.
Used a few tools for this one. I layed rubber tape under neath where the pieces rest.
3 piezos in this one. Very, very HOT signal! Plugged it in, at one point I cranked the gain on the preamp, it became microphonic! I could talk into it!
Still not done with it yet.....
More later.
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
Makes sense... piezo's are more similar to a microphone element than a magnetic pickup
True,
Although the piezos in the previous ones are not as hot as this one is though. The previous ones, even with the gain maxed out, weren't as hot.
I'm also guessing, But it probably helps a lot with getting a nice sharp angle over the bridge too, which should transfer the vibrations into the top of the body better.
This bass doesn't rely on resonance of the body, so that wouldn't be as important.
Had to sand down,reshape it and taper the top of the bridge down to 3/8 of an inch.The bolts are temporary, so that I could keep it together.The highest sand paper i've reached so far is 150, It'll go up to 400 before primer and paint
It'll look 10x better when I'm finished with it. I'll have to take it back apart and do more contouring to the flat sides too.
More soon.
/Jason
It'll look 10x better when I'm finished with it. I'll have to take it back apart and do more contouring to the flat sides too.
More soon.
/Jason
