• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Alternate fret material

My security software doesn't like this site. Can you explain it in a nutshell?
"Fretgroove is a unique system created exclusively by Marco Bass Guitars. Fretgroove is, in simple terms, a hybrid fretted/fretless fingerboard. The bass' traditional frets are replaced with sunken channels or grooves that give the instrument the feel and tone of a fretless bass but with the precision of a fretted fingerboard. When you play inside the grooves you have the fretted precision and when you play between the grooves you have the fretless sound. It's a revolutionary idea that brings the best of both worlds in a single instrument."

Edit - taken from the website.
 
The simple solution to the sides that does not make a messy blob at each end of the fret slot (which the ball-plunge will) is binding. Only trick to that would be finding the match between o-ring durometer (official squishiness rating system) and ball-plunge depth so that you can actually insert/remove from the top while still capturing in the slot. You may find that the o-ring material is sufficiently elastic that it actually does not wear much/fast (again, depending on the specific durometer and the material you select) - it may repeatably deform and recover rather than wearing away. You'd need to experiment.


Yeah, it's called a profiled ball mill. It's not totally round, just in profile so, looking at it sideways it might appear as a rectangle and inserted into a premade slot.
 
Eh, didn't weigh in on the original thread but I will here. IMHO you could do better with a technique adjustment than a significant modification to your instrument. Muting with your left hand would serve better than rubber frets any day.
 
I'm not a fretless player, but from my brief experiences I always thought the difference was less about wood vs metal as it was about your finger affecting the ringing portion of the string. That is, on a fretless, the edge of your finger is in contact with the portion of the string as it comes off of the fret board (the ringing portion). This creates a damping effect. On a fretted, unless your finger is directly on the fret, it is not in contact with the ringing portion of the string. Maybe you should try some form of mute.

If you are really wanting to get fancy (it sounds like you are), you could try little mute frets directly next to each fret (on the bridge facing side). They would need to be slightly higher than the fret, but soft enough to compress and allow the witness point to be the fret and not the mute.
 
  • Like
Reactions: icecycle66
Why do you think I mind soft material wearing down quickly.
That's not a problem for me.

Alright, I will bite.

I do my own fretwork. I've bought a number of used basses that have required the frets to be levelled, re-crowned and then polished. I don't mind doing this work, in fact I enjoy doing it! I especially enjoy doing it considering the ridiculous amount of money I wasted as a teenager getting the frets on my instruments 'stoned' (might just be a UK term). I had a Strat worked on, and the "luthier" basically leveled the frets until they were flat on the top, and then never re-crowned them. He might have polished them, but I ended up with a guitar with wide, flat frets. He also decided that I needed a floating trem! I'm glad that I can do my own work, but I wouldn't want to be doing it every month, every week etc.

Frets made of anything softer than the metals commonly used, in conjunction with roundwound strings, will wear down quickly. They will also wear down unevenly. You might find that the bottom 5 frets wear out quickly. You may also find that they don't even need to wear that much before you have issues.

How do you level and crown rubber frets? Say you have to replace the first five frets after four hours of playing, frets six to ten after the next four, etc. How do you accommodate for this? You have to be able to remove these frets endlessly, then install new ones. Do you then level them as well or hope that they just all mash into their slots correctly and somehow wind up being level?

Softer frets will also compress when you fret a note, so you would need to compensate to some degree. For example if I fret the 3rd fret, the tops of all the frets may be level, but the soft material will basically allow the string to sink in slightly, and suddenly it is fretting out on the 4th fret. Do you start with a highter fret in the 1st position and a lowest fret in the 21st position, and somehow ramp through the fret heights between them? Do you simply jack the action?
 
  • Like
Reactions: lz4005 and Gorn
Alright, I will bite.

I do my own fretwork. I've bought a number of used basses that have required the frets to be levelled, re-crowned and then polished. I don't mind doing this work, in fact I enjoy doing it! I especially enjoy doing it considering the ridiculous amount of money I wasted as a teenager getting the frets on my instruments 'stoned' (might just be a UK term). I had a Strat worked on, and the "luthier" basically leveled the frets until they were flat on the top, and then never re-crowned them. He might have polished them, but I ended up with a guitar with wide, flat frets. He also decided that I needed a floating trem! I'm glad that I can do my own work, but I wouldn't want to be doing it every month, every week etc.

Frets made of anything softer than the metals commonly used, in conjunction with roundwound strings, will wear down quickly. They will also wear down unevenly. You might find that the bottom 5 frets wear out quickly. You may also find that they don't even need to wear that much before you have issues.

How do you level and crown rubber frets? Say you have to replace the first five frets after four hours of playing, frets six to ten after the next four, etc. How do you accommodate for this? You have to be able to remove these frets endlessly, then install new ones. Do you then level them as well or hope that they just all mash into their slots correctly and somehow wind up being level?

Softer frets will also compress when you fret a note, so you would need to compensate to some degree. For example if I fret the 3rd fret, the tops of all the frets may be level, but the soft material will basically allow the string to sink in slightly, and suddenly it is fretting out on the 4th fret. Do you start with a highter fret in the 1st position and a lowest fret in the 21st position, and somehow ramp through the fret heights between them? Do you simply jack the action?


Hmm, that's good feedback. This is what I was hoping for.
There are some things here that I'll have to look into and how to mitigate them. Thanks.
 
  • Like
Reactions: T_Bone_TL
Hmm, that's good feedback. This is what I was hoping for.
There are some things here that I'll have to look into and how to mitigate them. Thanks.

No worries, and apologies for being heavy handed at the start there. For leveling frets you may have some luck with something like a small rasp or something? I've only ever worked with metal and wood, as this is where basses have taken me. I've not worked with rubber at all, and only a bit with plastic. You will need to devise your own tools and methods. You might find that there are carpentry or auto trade tools out there that actually to the jobs you need really easily, or you may need to build your own.

Nobody took Les Paul seriously when he turned up at factories with a solid electric guitar, and Jaco probably raised a few eyebrows with his knife + boat epoxy combo early on. Ebay is full of cheap basses, so I dare say you should just go for it!
 
  • Like
Reactions: T_Bone_TL
I don't know the how of this, precisely, (some sort of jig or via CNC) but I think you'd ideally aim for the grooves being routed dead level (or level and to radius, but this might be a darn good excuse to go with a non-radius board as has been brought up in the LC recently with several folks going that way) so you don't have to adjust the o-ring stock.

Yeah, sure, that's not the way it's done with fretwire, but - it's not fretwire.

Fretboard, radius or flat?
 
Last edited: