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Amp techs, what's on your bench?
- Thread starter two fingers
- Start date
)
I forgot a few things.
I use a dual trace scope, a Tektronix 465. Sig gen is a surplus Hewlett Packard. The current crop of DVMs made by firms like Fluke are just awesome. My favorite reference books in the shop are a pair of ARRL Handbooks (1967 and 1995) and a RCA tube manual.
I use a dual trace scope, a Tektronix 465. Sig gen is a surplus Hewlett Packard. The current crop of DVMs made by firms like Fluke are just awesome. My favorite reference books in the shop are a pair of ARRL Handbooks (1967 and 1995) and a RCA tube manual.
As was said already, you gotta make a lot of your own testing gear if you want to work on amps. Having lots of connectors and alligator clips is a must.
I'm a big fan of the Fluke 77 handheld meter. I've been using them for 13 years.
Get an analog scope. Unfortunately, they don't really make them anymore. The digital scopes are not fast enough and don't have enough resolution to effectively troubleshoot audio equipment. I use a Techtronics 2236 scope for most of what I do. I also have a newer Techtronics TDS2000 series digital scope that is useful for some things, but I can't rely on it all the time. I have demoed a $15,000 LeCroy touchscreen digital scope and it still wasn't as good as a decent analog scope.
Pay the extra money for a good soldering station. Weller and Hako make my favorites.
As far as signal generators, distortion analyzers, spectrum analyzers, etc.... just get a used Audio Precision system.
I'm a big fan of the Fluke 77 handheld meter. I've been using them for 13 years.
Get an analog scope. Unfortunately, they don't really make them anymore. The digital scopes are not fast enough and don't have enough resolution to effectively troubleshoot audio equipment. I use a Techtronics 2236 scope for most of what I do. I also have a newer Techtronics TDS2000 series digital scope that is useful for some things, but I can't rely on it all the time. I have demoed a $15,000 LeCroy touchscreen digital scope and it still wasn't as good as a decent analog scope.
Pay the extra money for a good soldering station. Weller and Hako make my favorites.
As far as signal generators, distortion analyzers, spectrum analyzers, etc.... just get a used Audio Precision system.
When I was contemplating upgrading my scope I looked at some PC based designs. All I looked at were unsuitable because they couldn't handle any high voltage on the inputs. sometimes you have to look at what's happening on a plate or a screen. If doing so destroys the instrument you won't get to far.
Yeah...that too.
Rigol makes some inexpensive and pretty decent digital scopes. They are clones of the Tech. TDS scopes.
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,066
- 45,996
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
I went with the 179 a couple of years ago -- it's great. Piggybacked a couple of promo deals and got it for $125 landed.
A buddy just opened a new shop a mile or so from my house. I'm really looking forward to having free access to his AP rig and his scary knowledge. He has a huge stash of NOS tubes too, which will likely be both handy and costly!
Should have mentioned analog scope. Left my monster Techtronix behind, sold my old B-K portable to a friend only to remember now how grumpy the Sencore SC61 can be 
. Like I said I was not going to be doing this anymore, help one person in a small town and you're done. 
. Like I said I was not going to be doing this anymore, help one person in a small town and you're done. 
Lots of great advice here guys.
Only one problem. This thread has not degraded into some sort of off-topic argument. If you guys don't start arguing soon, I'm going to have to throw a tomato and one of you and blame it on another guy to get something started!
Seriously though. I really appreciate your taking the time and sharing the knowledge. This will probably allow me some shortcuts you guys may have had to learn the hard way. My grandfather always said "Don't learn from your mistakes. Learn from OTHER people's mistakes so you don't make to make them."
By the way......
Fluke 87 - check good enough
Weller solder station - check (still need lots of practice making clean solders)
Working on a couple deals for possible sig generators and scopes. I have befriended a couple of old ham guys and they are looking out for me. Man, THOSE guys will just do ANYTHING for you. And they know so much about signal paths it's ridiculous!
I think I'm going to build a bench. I really like my work area kind of spread out and nothing seems to be big enough out of the box for me. Also, I like to be at "bar stool" height so I can either sit on the stool, or even stand at the bench if I need to stretch but want to keep going. Any thoughts? Will I regret not being at regular seated height later on?
Only one problem. This thread has not degraded into some sort of off-topic argument. If you guys don't start arguing soon, I'm going to have to throw a tomato and one of you and blame it on another guy to get something started!
Seriously though. I really appreciate your taking the time and sharing the knowledge. This will probably allow me some shortcuts you guys may have had to learn the hard way. My grandfather always said "Don't learn from your mistakes. Learn from OTHER people's mistakes so you don't make to make them."
By the way......
Fluke 87 - check good enough
Weller solder station - check (still need lots of practice making clean solders)
Working on a couple deals for possible sig generators and scopes. I have befriended a couple of old ham guys and they are looking out for me. Man, THOSE guys will just do ANYTHING for you. And they know so much about signal paths it's ridiculous!
I think I'm going to build a bench. I really like my work area kind of spread out and nothing seems to be big enough out of the box for me. Also, I like to be at "bar stool" height so I can either sit on the stool, or even stand at the bench if I need to stretch but want to keep going. Any thoughts? Will I regret not being at regular seated height later on?
1) What kind of counter do you work on?
A sheet of 3/4 ply loosely screwed to a frame made out of 2x4s.
2) What kind of light and/or magnifier do you use (if any)?
Depends on the job. Usually a regular desk lamp, sometimes a head-mounted magnifier-light combo thingy for the fiddly jobs. (Fiddly = hand-soldering TQFP chips, not something you're going to worry about on tube amp jobs)
3) What's the biggest thing you have learned about what you do need and/or what you don't need on your bench?
useful: DMM, linesman's pliers, long bench power strip with GFI, sharp knife, dental picks
not so: logic probe
With some kinds of tools/equipment, getting "the best" really matters. Others, not so much. What's an example of either/or?
important to get the good (not the "best") stuff: most hand tools
not so important: scope (get something solid, but you don't need a 5GHz DSO for audio work)
4) Where do you fall on the great tube tester debate? A lot of reading I have done simply says that the "best tester is a circuit" and that testers aren't worth the boxes they are housed in. Do you find this to be the case?
I don't do enough tube work to comment here, though I'd imagine that the answer would be "depends on how many tubes you expect going to encounter over a year"
5) What's the one thing you reach for the most? What's the one thing that has sat there for years and you rarely (if ever) need it even though you thought you would?
Most: DMM, good pair of pliers
Least: hmm, not sure. vacuum pump maybe?
6) Any other general advice?
Start small and work up. Both complexity and voltage.
A sheet of 3/4 ply loosely screwed to a frame made out of 2x4s.
2) What kind of light and/or magnifier do you use (if any)?
Depends on the job. Usually a regular desk lamp, sometimes a head-mounted magnifier-light combo thingy for the fiddly jobs. (Fiddly = hand-soldering TQFP chips, not something you're going to worry about on tube amp jobs)
3) What's the biggest thing you have learned about what you do need and/or what you don't need on your bench?
useful: DMM, linesman's pliers, long bench power strip with GFI, sharp knife, dental picks
not so: logic probe
With some kinds of tools/equipment, getting "the best" really matters. Others, not so much. What's an example of either/or?
important to get the good (not the "best") stuff: most hand tools
not so important: scope (get something solid, but you don't need a 5GHz DSO for audio work)
4) Where do you fall on the great tube tester debate? A lot of reading I have done simply says that the "best tester is a circuit" and that testers aren't worth the boxes they are housed in. Do you find this to be the case?
I don't do enough tube work to comment here, though I'd imagine that the answer would be "depends on how many tubes you expect going to encounter over a year"
5) What's the one thing you reach for the most? What's the one thing that has sat there for years and you rarely (if ever) need it even though you thought you would?
Most: DMM, good pair of pliers
Least: hmm, not sure. vacuum pump maybe?
6) Any other general advice?
Start small and work up. Both complexity and voltage.
Mr. Foxen
Commercial User
Oh yeah, what solder do you use? I picked up some new old stock stuff, its great, but before I used some tin/lead on a pink spool, it worked fine too. I find the lead free stuff disagrees with remnants of lead on most stuff I work on, so better to go like with like.
I've got a little junction box on my bench, like an effects loop. On the "send" side, a switch chooses between a bass hanging on a hook (old de-fretted Fender Mustang), or a signal generator. On the "return" side, it sends the signal back to an amp on my shelf (old GK MB150E combo) and has a mute switch. It's quite handy for testing devices such as preamps with the bass, or if I want to measure something, I can mute the output and start poking around with DMM and scope.
As important as it is to check things out with test equipment, I think nothing beats our ears for hearing and recognizing problems. I'll bet that every tech learns the audible "signature sound" of specific things that can go wrong with gear.
And with that said, make sure you have some good industrial strength hearing protection.
Solder? You will want to own the major types so you can use the same type when repairing things, if possible. However, my opinion is that the old fashioned lead-tin still wins hands-down for reliability and ease of use. You probably have a better chance of learning with lead-tin before graduating to the lead-free stuff. This only applies to the US. Other countries have pretty strict regulations pertaining to the use of lead solder.
The lead-free solder containing silver is horrid evil nasty stuff.
I'm using Kester K100LD lead free solder in the preamp factory, and am quite happy with it. With practice, you can get a nice joint. Techni-Tool has the thinner gauges.
Of course you know never to use any kind of plumbing solders, fluxes, pastes, etc.
As important as it is to check things out with test equipment, I think nothing beats our ears for hearing and recognizing problems. I'll bet that every tech learns the audible "signature sound" of specific things that can go wrong with gear.
And with that said, make sure you have some good industrial strength hearing protection.
Solder? You will want to own the major types so you can use the same type when repairing things, if possible. However, my opinion is that the old fashioned lead-tin still wins hands-down for reliability and ease of use. You probably have a better chance of learning with lead-tin before graduating to the lead-free stuff. This only applies to the US. Other countries have pretty strict regulations pertaining to the use of lead solder.
The lead-free solder containing silver is horrid evil nasty stuff.
I'm using Kester K100LD lead free solder in the preamp factory, and am quite happy with it. With practice, you can get a nice joint. Techni-Tool has the thinner gauges.
Of course you know never to use any kind of plumbing solders, fluxes, pastes, etc.
I'll second that.
I like the lead/tin/silver solder that Radio Shack sells. Otherwise I use Kester 44 (60/40).
Important soldering "tips".
Solder is not glue, it provides an electrical connection not a mechanical one. Don't overdo it.
Flux prepares the connection to accept solder under heat.
Always start with a clean tip (damp sponge cleans tips).
SMALL dab of solder on the tip just before applying to joint (pad and component lead or tinned wire and terminal) .
Feed the solder from the opposite side of the joint from the iron so solder will only flow when the joint is hot enough to accept it.
Don't move the joint or blow on it as it cools, let it cool on its own.
Clean off the flux residue after cool to inspect the joint(s).
Solder is not glue, it provides an electrical connection not a mechanical one. Don't overdo it.
Flux prepares the connection to accept solder under heat.
Always start with a clean tip (damp sponge cleans tips).
SMALL dab of solder on the tip just before applying to joint (pad and component lead or tinned wire and terminal) .
Feed the solder from the opposite side of the joint from the iron so solder will only flow when the joint is hot enough to accept it.
Don't move the joint or blow on it as it cools, let it cool on its own.
Clean off the flux residue after cool to inspect the joint(s).
All that you've ever wanted to know about Link Removed*, ( * but were afraid to ask).
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Mr. Foxen
Commercial User
Tin both things to be connected together. That way if one is not accepting solder for whatever reason (some pots having a coating is a classic) you know before you are trying to assemble.
