Ampeg 810: is this one real?

[hyp.spec]

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

I'm going to go check this out at the music store.

I just talked to the guy on the phone and he's not 100% sure its an Ampeg, but I was wondering if anyone here can give me any pointers on knowing if its real or not.

The picture shows its obviously been carpeted, but the dimensions look right

 

[coreyfyfe]

I think ampeg had a series with the fur cover instead of tolex, BSE maybe? Maybe the wooten sig stuff?

 

[blendermassacre]

that looks like a 410/15 to me, but the angle on the picture is kind of weird.

 

[JimmyM]

looks like a 610 of some sort.

 

[johnk_10]

it doesn't look like an 8x10 to me. judging by the size of the logo compared to the cab, it might be a 610 (or it might not).

IMO, it would be alot easier to tell what it is if they removed the grill panel.

 

[hyp.spec]

It's definitely an 810.

Looks like the top 2 speakers have been replaced, with what I don't know...

The other 6 look original.

It has been carpeted. No more tolex.

No casters, and and the cloth grill still sports an original metal Ampeg logo.

Best of all, it sounds KILLER.


I do have one question though... We ran an ohm meter through it at the store and it came up as 6.5 Ohms.... I'm assuming that the replacement speakers are not the right ohmage. Am I going to run into issues? My GK 1001rb-II can handle 4 or 8 ohms so I don't see it being a problem...

 

[jastacey]

Looks like a 6x10 ... notice the old style Ampeg badge!

 

[NineSpine]

Weird, that picture looks exactly like a music store here in NY.

 

[johnk_10]

yep, its an ampeg. the first photo's closeup wide-angle shot made it look like a 610.

 

[coreyfyfe]

I do have one question though... We ran an ohm meter through it at the store and it came up as 6.5 Ohms.... I'm assuming that the replacement speakers are not the right ohmage. Am I going to run into issues? My GK 1001rb-II can handle 4 or 8 ohms so I don't see it being a problem...

6.5 ohms sounds close to right for 8 ohm. The measured value is different than the actual impedance (AC vs DC or something like that). Pull the bottom six speakers, that looks a lot like the vintage cabs. Is it square or is it tilt-back?

 

[hyp.spec]

Square back, so I know its older... the back input panel has been replaced so I can't put a date on the cab... i'm gonna try pulling a speaker out to see if I can figure it out...

On old ampegs were the speakers screwed in with hex screws?

Edit: they aren't hex screws but some funky rectangular ones...

 

[Burlington]

The first and second pic look liek different cabs to me... look at the thing going across in the first pic, under the top 4 speakers.

 

[hyp.spec]

The first and second pic look liek different cabs to me... look at the thing going across in the first pic, under the top 4 speakers.

I assure you its the same cab... it's sitting in my computer room

 

[coreyfyfe]

Square back, so I know its older... the back input panel has been replaced so I can't put a date on the cab... i'm gonna try pulling a speaker out to see if I can figure it out...

On old ampegs were the speakers screwed in with hex screws?

Edit: they aren't hex screws but some funky rectangular ones...

You scored a hell of a cab. How much did you pay? Those are clutch head screws, you can pick up a screw driver for them at a hardware store or at www.fliptops.net or if you go slow with a wide flathead you should be able to get them out. The only way to date would be by the speaker code which should be 137 YYWW (CTS code, year, week). Those cabs were only made 69-73ish, and sell for decent money when people know what they have. I got mine for $400 from a friend who picked it up for $250, but I've seen them selling for much more, and fliptops makes a repro for $1000.

 

[hyp.spec]

Scored it for 349.97 out the door

I'm going to try to get me one of those screw drivers and try to find out the date... and figure out what the top 2 speakers are.

Any idea what the power rating on these cabs were back int he day? I know the new ones are rated at 800w.

 

[JimmyM]

Scored it for 349.97 out the door

I'm going to try to get me one of those screw drivers and try to find out the date... and figure out what the top 2 speakers are.

Any idea what the power rating on these cabs were back int he day? I know the new ones are rated at 800w.

ampeg claimed 250w back then, but i think that's conservative. i've cranked a markbass lmii at 500w into my straightback. don't know exactly what it takes, but i have to think it does better than 250w. certainly won't do 800, though.

as for replacements, since you have most of the cts's in it, i'd just look for a couple more on ebay. they do pop up fairly often.

 

[hyp.spec]

well i certainly hope I can crank it... (people sleeping in my house at the moment), but I've got a GK 1001rb-II to run into it.

I hope it can handle it lol.

 

[southshoreconor]

i wanna say 400w? i think they're 50 watt drivers, the new ones have 100 watt drivers. last i checked 8 x 50 = 400. great score btw, even with the two mismatched speakers. there are tons of good replacements out there if you ever want to change it up, i had two torn speakers on mine reconed by fliptops and it sounds amazing.

 

[johnk_10]

IIRC the original 32 ohm SVT 10's were rated at about 30 watts each, making the cab handle 240 watts.

 

[JimmyM]

well regardless of whether it takes your 1001rb cranked full (it won't), it's still the very best sounding cab ampeg ever made, and that's worth something. but if you're looking for high power handling, a non-osb 810e would be your best bet. you could put those new eminence legend b810's in it, but then it's not as cost effective.