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Ampeg B-15nf blowing fuses

My experienced guess is that probably 85% of all parts replaced are perfectly good for many more years of service.
...especially in an era where "remove and replace parts until it works again" repair approaches have replaced advanced troubleshooting skills by technicians with expert level knowledge of both the system and their profession. My apologies in advance to those professionals who are still keeping the standards high, but you have to know you are in the minority IME.
 
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...especially in an era where "remove and replace parts until it works again" repair approaches have replaced advanced troubleshooting skills by technicians with expert level knowledge of both the system and and their profession. My apologies in advance to those professionals who are still keeping the standards high, but you have to know you are in the minority IME.
It’s a troubling trend indeed
 
Ive Heard of Oscillating, Rumbling and doubling ..... never heard troubling lol

What is the sound that amp is making?

Oh its just troubling

Ironically usually when guys have amp problems and " they recently had some work done by Mr Amazing etc etc etc"

just ask what was done on the amp or open it up and obviously see what recently been done...and blamo you find the problem right were the new work has been done.

Not bagging the OP im saying since you know work was done previously on the amp before owning sometimes that is areas to look at first and find problems.
 
Can you rule the new speaker out, bit of a coincidence in timing here?
It’s not the speaker because amp worked for a week with new speaker. Working on this amp is definitely a pain compared to pre circuit board Fenders. Clearly it’s engineered to look cool rather that be serviceable. It does not appear that the circuit board would need to come out to replace either the power transformer or the 40/40/40 MFD cap. I certainly won’t be able to test capacitance @500V so that cap is coming out regardless. Hand to put everything back together when the kids got home but tomorrow I will solder the new cap in. If that does not work i will replace the power transformer. It looks like I can just unbolt it an pull on it and solder the wires onto the new one. Look I would love to take this thing to a “qualified tech” but let’s face it it’s not 1958 anymore. How much work of this type is really out there? Doing it yourself is a way to assure knuckle head doesn’t ruin your amp.
 
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OK it took me 2.5 years to do it but I ordered a new power transformer from the the guy that sells these and the new caps that he recommended. I installed everything and we are up and running again. I had to make the holes in the circuit board bigger with a drill bit because they did not line up over the bolt holding the transformer in but aside from that everything was straight forward. The guy from fliptops.net who sold me the new transformer and caps had me remove the wires from the power transformer thereby isolating it and then turn the power on to see if the fuse blows and it did so that told us I needed to replace it.
 
OK it took me 2.5 years to do it but I ordered a new power transformer from the the guy that sells these and the new caps that he recommended. I installed everything and we are up and running again. I had to make the holes in the circuit board bigger with a drill bit because they did not line up over the bolt holding the transformer in but aside from that everything was straight forward. The guy from fliptops.net who sold me the new transformer and caps had me remove the wires from the power transformer thereby isolating it and then turn the power on to see if the fuse blows and it did so that told us I needed to replace it.

Good news. The transformers that fliptops sell are made by Heyboer. The spec is better and performance is very good.
 
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IMG_20200305_112141_646.jpg

Do you have one of these? How about an ESR tester? Cause I'll tell ya if you do not, and further more if you think a cap is shorted and don't know how to figure that one out, you might wanna start with some electrical theory first.

Know how to discharge capacitors and know to always 100% of the time check their voltages before proceeding, and why.

Other tools you'll need, a fused variac and current meter on your power inlet, and ideally a current limiter there as well. You'll need a good scope and I'd say at least three multi meters. Also a couple mA meters for the output stage.

Does any of this make sense? I know some folks here may come off as jerks in that we don't want ya to mess with your amp, but it's only because we A, don't want you to kill yourself and B, don't want you to make a future Tech's job a royal Peta.

If ya really want to learn to work on your own gear, it's all good, but there's right ways and wrong ways to go. Also just like learning to do fretwork I always recommend starting somewhere cheap, cause odds are as we learn we make mistakes.

That said with amps first things first you need basic electrical theory, and if ya didn't get it in highschool some basic algebra prior to that. If you don't understand the basics, it's like trying cut a board with a cheese grader.
 
It does hold true. I see more perfectly good parts replaced because of a lack of understanding of troubleshooting and electrical theory.

I watched a "tech" replace part after part because an amp wouldn't power up... I just didn't have the heart (or sense of humor) to tell him that the power cable he had plugged in didn't even go to the amp he was working on!

Yeah, with logical skills and focus like this, he probably shouldn't consider skydiving as a sport to try... ;)
 
It does hold true. I see more perfectly good parts replaced because of a lack of understanding of troubleshooting and electrical theory.

I watched a "tech" replace part after part because an amp wouldn't power up... I just didn't have the heart (or sense of humor) to tell him that the power cable he had plugged in didn't even go to the amp he was working on!

Yeah, with logical skills and focus like this, he probably shouldn't consider skydiving as a sport to try... ;)

Holy moly that's a doozy! I've fumbled about wondering why there wasn't power before but ya tend look at things like the power source before turning on your iron lol.
 
Very good thread! Btw, i have a 67 Ampeg Gemini II which i know the tech i bought it from repaired the tremolo circuit...this chap was a good tech (too bad he moved away).

Finding a competent 'troubleshooting tech' can be dicey.....The 67 Gemini II has all original guts otherwise, sounds excellent, the power tranny never gets hot (actually luke warm even after the amp sits idling for hours) it runs 7591's though the chart says 6L6GC....weird and makes me wonder what on earth was going on with that?

Btw, my 67 Ampeg Gemini II has a solid state rectifier which im guessing is at least partly why the PT never gets hot?
 
I am in same boat...just got my 1965 B15N and was playing great until I turned volume up to a smidge over 12 o'clock position. Then it went click and stopped working.

I didn't know warming it up for 30 minutes on standby was needed. Guess I need to learn more about these 60-year-old amps.
 
I am in same boat...just got my 1965 B15N and was playing great until I turned volume up to a smidge over 12 o'clock position. Then it went click and stopped working.

I didn't know warming it up for 30 minutes on standby was needed. Guess I need to learn more about these 60-year-old amps.
You don't need to warm it up for 30 min on standby.
 
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