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Ampeg B2 fan direction (sucking vs. blowing)

Hi! Could someone tell me if the fan of my B2 should suck air into the amp via the fan opening? Or if it should blow through the fan opening?
Also, would anyone know the CFM this should have? I suspect the previous owner replaced it with some generic fan, and only looked at voltage and diameter.
 
You said the amp was a B2, that is a combo, available in different speaker configurations.

If you mean B2-R (the two space rackmount one) the intake for air is on the side and the fan blows out the back.

Analogeezer
 
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Hi! Could someone tell me if the fan of my B2 should suck air into the amp via the fan opening? Or if it should blow through the fan opening?
Also, would anyone know the CFM this should have? I suspect the previous owner replaced it with some generic fan, and only looked at voltage and diameter.

technically either blowing in or sucking out will give you air changes and cooling.
 
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Hi! Could someone tell me if the fan of my B2 should suck air into the amp via the fan opening? Or if it should blow through the fan opening?
Also, would anyone know the CFM this should have? I suspect the previous owner replaced it with some generic fan, and only looked at voltage and diameter.
Out
 
Stop me if I’m telling you what you already know….. this is how the average HVAC engineer selects cooling fans for transformer rooms

check the power consumption figure from the label of the amp where the power cord joins the anplifier chassis, it will probably tell you how many watts the amp draws from the wall at peak.

subtract the nominal peak watts from that figure.

the difference is the amp’s inefficiency, and is the amount of heat that will need to be dissipated.

convert that number of watts into btu per hour by multiplying by 3.4

Assume a room temperature of 75 deg F

assume a max cabinet temperature of 95 deg F or whatever @agedhorse recommends

subtract room temp from max temp to get your temperature difference

calculate your cfm by dividing your heat to be dissipated by 1.08 by the temperature difference

example:

a nominal 25 watt amp draws 75 watts from the wall

75-25 = 50 watts to be dissipated.

50 x 3.4 = 170 btu/he

95F max cabinet temp and 75F room = 20F temperature difference

170 / 1.08 / 20 = 7.87 cfm

class D amps are way more efficient than class A or B

the approach above neglects all heat dissipated from any means other than the exhaust fan and therefore is pretty conservative.
 
Expanding Josh's comments above...

The AC power consumption is (usually, and the minimum required by the safety regs), the 1/8-rated audio power AC power consumption. This assumes maximum undistorted audio.

This figure is also the average number of BTUs drawn from the wall during average use. Now, multiply this number by 20% efficiency and this is the number of BTUs that must be dissipated as heat (average) Because there are some short term thermal excursions, normally we double this number to be sure we never get into a runaway condition.

Removing the heat depends in part on the surfaces radiating the heat and this is a non-linear function because heat transfer increases as the temperature differential grows. The balancing act is that in some instances there are de-rating factors that must grow with temperature so we like to limit the temperature rise of critical areas to avoid unnecessary de-rating.

Using the Subway amp and an example, the average power is 400 watts (this is because the amp is designed to drive and support greater than the bare minimum 1/8-rated audio power, in fact the number is slightly greater than 1/3 which is a substantial difference) so the heat dissipated is roughly 400 x 0.2 = 80 watts, but we also design around an environmental temperature of ~120 deg F and though the AVERAGE temperature of the air inside the chassis may only be ~140 degrees (20 deg delta T is a good rule of thumb for air temps), and there must also be enough air passing over specific components and heat sinks to limit the surface (and die) temperatures and must overcome any static pressure drop through the system. This is where the two theories kind of diverge.

So, the 80 watts represents the average thermal energy EXCHANGED from the cabinet, or 80 watts x 3.4 BTU/hr = 272 BTU/hr and the CFM would be (272 x 1.08)/20 = ~14.5 and generally the static pressure for the Subway and is less than the rated SP for the fan so this is generally the worst case.

Now that we know the worst case conditions, measurements of critical spots are made and we will then fine tune the numbers based on the actual air flow paths and the temperatures of the critical components under these worst case conditions.

This is a good example of why just substituting a quieter fan that ends up with a lower CFM and/or rated static pressure can get you into big trouble. A lot of thought goes into a reliable cooling system.
 
I clicked on the thread after seeing the title and am disappointed at the very small number of bad jokes.

But yes either one will work, really.

And I'm always impressed at how cool my Subway D800 runs even after long, multi-band shows, probably due to the (almost) always-on fan.
 
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Yes, either way will likely work, but one might be drasticially less effective than the other one. I would guess that blowing air out would be more effective as that would create negative air pressure inside, which will give more of a flow while pushing air in my just cause turbulence instead of actually effectively recycling the air.
 
Full disclosure, I’m an HVAC engineer not an amp engineer, I have a lot of experience with heat and moving air. Everything I’m writing is me trying to apply that experience to amps which I am just a civilian consumer of.

That said I f I were designing the amp cooling, I would choose an exhaust fan for the cabinet and place it as close to the largest heat source of the internal components. I would start with the intake holes evenly distributed around the cabinet and then adjust so that other components that are bigger heat sources have more of the intake holes closest to them.

this approach will get the most heat out of the cabinet the fastest and will minimize internal hotspots
 
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The documents indicate that the airflow is into the chassis. The same fan/controller was used in multiple products. Customer service should be able to provide a specification for the fan.

5309A31A-B794-4575-95FC-A5B272D031AA.jpeg
 
Full disclosure, I’m an HVAC engineer not an amp engineer, I have a lot of experience with heat and moving air. Everything I’m writing is me trying to apply that experience to amps which I am just a civilian consumer of.

That said I f I were designing the amp cooling, I would choose an exhaust fan for the cabinet and place it as close to the largest heat source of the internal components. I would start with the intake holes evenly distributed around the cabinet and then adjust so that other components that are bigger heat sources have more of the intake holes closest to them.

this approach will get the most heat out of the cabinet the fastest and will minimize internal hotspots
The same basic principles apply, though we may fine tune around different variables.

Yes, either way will likely work, but one might be drasticially less effective than the other one. I would guess that blowing air out would be more effective as that would create negative air pressure inside, which will give more of a flow while pushing air in my just cause turbulence instead of actually effectively recycling the air.

Doesn’t really work this way.
 
The documents indicate that the airflow is into the chassis. The same fan/controller was used in multiple products. Customer service should be able to provide a specification for the fan.

View attachment 4680226

Yeah my original reply was incorrect, not sure why I said air flows into the side, the B2-R has the same venting at the bottom of the chassis. So the air gets pulled into the lower part and exhausted OUT of the far left (looking at the back of the amp).

The B2-R chassis is slightly different but the innards and cooling seem to be the same.

Analogeezer
 
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