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Ampeg PF-50T Humbuster

I don´t know. I suppose the topology would work (i.e. inserting a resistor and a cap at the back of the diode) , the values certainly would not. The 20T is 6V6 and more than likely involves a different bias voltage.
I have no 20T available or the schemo, so I do not know which values would be necessary.
 
Very many thanks to Mnats and his research, a great read over at the Invalid Link Removed and to Bertr for figuring out the quick 2 component fix. (3.3kohm resistor and 220uf 100volt min electrolytic capacitor)

The hum on my amp was unacceptable for recording and has always bugged me at home and playing live. As a bass player I think am am very sensitive to 50Hz hum!! Now with the mod its is the best and quietest valve amp i have ever owned.

I just happened to have 450volt 220uf electrolytic capacitor (a bit over spec! I may replace with a radial cap at some stage) so I used it.

Here is my 'Bertr' mod:
I carefully desoldered the anode end of diode D29 using braid to suck up the solder.
The new 3.3k resistor is soldered to the board where that side of the diode was desoldered from.
The negative of the new 220uf electrolytic capacitor goes to the floating union of the new 3.3k resistor and the now unsoldered anode end of the diode.
The positive of the capacitor to the link JMP14.
The whole mod floats nicely about 15mm above the board.

Also I echo Mnats words...dismantling - not to mention modifying - your amplifier will void the warranty. Tube amplifiers contain lethal voltages that remain even after being disconnected from power. Leave any work to an experienced electronics service technician.

Gaz
View attachment 2959747 View attachment 2959748

That looks really nice! So I have read a capacitor input filter results in higher DC voltage. Is this why the circuit needs the extra 3.3k resistor...to knock the voltage back down to the normal level? Do you know how much the voltage would increase if the 3.3k was omitted?
 
> Is this why the circuit needs the extra 3.3k resistor...to knock the voltage back down to the normal level?
Yes. As for the value at the back of diode, I can not remember. What I did was to remove the 6L6 and note the range of bias. Then, using Mnats trace and idea of an additional cap, used excel to calculate what res. would work with most of the original circuit. It was about 3,3k, so that is what I choose.
> I ordered both 1/2 watt and 1/4 watt. Would one or the other be preferable?
Does not matter. I would take 1/2: It can not hurt (I think)....
 
Thanks everyone for the advice via this thread and the various links. I got the mod done today with supervision and assist from my son who is an engineer. It works as advertised. There is now zero audible 60 hz hum and no audible degradation of the tone when playing. Also am now able to adjust the bias properly whereas I had previously set it in a position that minimized the hum. Posting pics here for anyone who had trouble seeing the detail in the bertr photo. Got the parts from Mouser.

By the way, I found the secret sauce that makes this amp sound so good - it contains a flux capacitor. Really - upper left in the first full size picture. No idea what that is doing there. Maybe the name of the company that makes the boards for Loud Tech.

IMG_1958.JPG


IMG_1969.JPG


IMG_1969.JPG IMG_1967.JPG IMG_1966.JPG IMG_1965.JPG IMG_1964.JPG IMG_1963.JPG IMG_1960.JPG IMG_1974.JPG IMG_1971.JPG IMG_1972.JPG IMG_1973.JPG
 
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Very many thanks to Mnats and his research, a great read over at the Invalid Link Removed and to Bertr for figuring out the quick 2 component fix. (3.3kohm resistor and 220uf 100volt min electrolytic capacitor)

The hum on my amp was unacceptable for recording and has always bugged me at home and playing live. As a bass player I think am am very sensitive to 50Hz hum!! Now with the mod its is the best and quietest valve amp i have ever owned.

I just happened to have 450volt 220uf electrolytic capacitor (a bit over spec! I may replace with a radial cap at some stage) so I used it.

Here is my 'Bertr' mod:
I carefully desoldered the anode end of diode D29 using braid to suck up the solder.
The new 3.3k resistor is soldered to the board where that side of the diode was desoldered from.
The negative of the new 220uf electrolytic capacitor goes to the floating union of the new 3.3k resistor and the now unsoldered anode end of the diode.
The positive of the capacitor to the link JMP14.
The whole mod floats nicely about 15mm above the board.

Also I echo Mnats words...dismantling - not to mention modifying - your amplifier will void the warranty. Tube amplifiers contain lethal voltages that remain even after being disconnected from power. Leave any work to an experienced electronics service technician.

Gaz
View attachment 2959747 View attachment 2959748

Just saw this. Nice - very clean job.
 
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I had a bit of a scare after doing my mod. All of a sudden I started hearing light crackle/static type sounds intermittently. A had a GK amp that did this and GK never could figure out the source so they sent me a new one. To narrow it down I listened with headphones from the two XLR outputs and determined that the source of the noise was the preamp or something before the preamp. Fortunately I had a couple of very quiet J&J preamp tubes that I bought when trying to narrow down the problem with my GK amp. They didn't resolve the GK issue, but did silence the Ampeg. I'm guessing the noise may have been there for some time but I just started hearing it after eliminating the hum which probably was masking the intermittent light static. Now she's dead silent. Whew!
 
Maybe you can shame Ampeg into doing it for you? :)
You really should Jimmy and then report back to Ampeg. I’d be happy to send you the parts.
Neither one of those scenarios can happen for different reasons. The Ampeg reason is obvious. The Steve reason can't happen because I can't solder worth a crap and never will. But I do thank you very kindly for the offer, Steve!
 
Not to me - would anyone care to enlighten me? If you endorse a company's products you're not allowed to ask them to fix an obvious design defect even if you can supply them the fix :wideyed: ?
I could show it to them, but I'm not about to ask them to do it for me. I'm no schnorrer. Chances are they've already seen it anyway.
 
I'm no schnorrer.
Oy vey LOL. Dunno if there's a Yiddish translation but one of my favs is "If you don't ask, you don't get" ;) . I'd think it would be to Ampeg's advantage to listen to their endorser's needs but I guess those days are gone :meh:.

OTOH I have to head down to the post office and pick up a vintage MOSFET-based B15 clone I scored for $100 :cool:. 100 watts so I could decapitate it and make it into a V4B clone :D.
 
Oy vey LOL. Dunno if there's a Yiddish translation but one of my favs is "If you don't ask, you don't get" ;) . I'd think it would be to Ampeg's advantage to listen to their endorser's needs but I guess those days are gone :meh:.
Trust me...they listen to me. But I'm not about to ask anyone there to do this mod for me.

You guys really have to stop turning off-handed comments into evil corporate plots.
 
Pretty sure that no one here knows the impact that incorporating this modification into a current production amplifier would be. Can’t we just be happy there is a fix for what is otherwise a very nice amplifier?
 
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