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Ampeg SVT 7 Pro Club

Good question as I wondered if I could fit mine is such a rack. According to me it's not a problem. But if anyone can confirm that would be great.
I decided to call Gator cases today. The shallow molded cases are 13 inches from front rail to back lid. The rail-to-rail depth turned out to be 11.75 inches.

The SVT-7 Pro’s manual says it’s depth is 11.5” with the rear feet still attached. My amp’s at a practice space or I would’ve measured the depth without the feet but I’d guess they add maybe 1/2 inch or less.

Hope that helps.
 
I decided to call Gator cases today. The shallow molded cases are 13 inches from front rail to back lid. The rail-to-rail depth turned out to be 11.75 inches.

The SVT-7 Pro’s manual says it’s depth is 11.5” with the rear feet still attached. My amp’s at a practice space or I would’ve measured the depth without the feet but I’d guess they add maybe 1/2 inch or less.

Hope that helps.

I bit longer than 1/2" IMHO.
images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT8_r9QVo4L39bgyerZ8WEyozQWIS50Ix7D6g&usqp=CAU.jpg

Here they are moved to the bottom.
images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSyJtHrA4UUE82znm7lxw1IwvS6guLZIE0MSQ&usqp=CAU.jpg
 
I decided to call Gator cases today. The shallow molded cases are 13 inches from front rail to back lid. The rail-to-rail depth turned out to be 11.75 inches.

The SVT-7 Pro’s manual says it’s depth is 11.5” with the rear feet still attached. My amp’s at a practice space or I would’ve measured the depth without the feet but I’d guess they add maybe 1/2 inch or less.

Hope that helps.
May we have some pictures?
 
May we have some pictures?
So, they sent the wrong direction angled cable but, the clearance worked out great.
1st pic: Wrong way.
2nd pic: Red lines are where the rail is, green is back of the plug. (Camera as even with rail as I could get for perspective)
3rd pic: Front view
The coil in the back is the 15 foot jumper coming out of the Tripp-Lite. Short cord would stay connected to both, long cord does not disconnect and is long enough for most applications.

ACCC8944-9597-4D40-B5F1-888E2BAE25C1.jpeg
2F1A0BB8-AC59-4C28-9301-5C51D8757CD6.jpeg
0BC06B83-7618-467D-9B32-284EFBDEFD14.jpeg


If you’re interested in this rack case, it’s a Gator G-Pro-3U-13. Obviously replace “3U” with however many U height you would need. I’m not affiliated with Gator cases btw either, just happy I found a good fit. Cheers!
 
Hey guys have a somewhat urgent question. Decided to di with my amp at my church tonight and no matter what we tried, there is a hum. Gets worse when engaging the ground lift. What needs to be adjusted? Usually run a bddi with level at noon and drive at 1oclock and 20dB pad engaged. Playing with a precision. Gain on amp set to 1-2oclock.
 
Hey guys have a somewhat urgent question. Decided to di with my amp at my church tonight and no matter what we tried, there is a hum. Gets worse when engaging the ground lift. What needs to be adjusted? Usually run a bddi with level at noon and drive at 1oclock and 20dB pad engaged. Playing with a precision. Gain on amp set to 1-2oclock.
Have you ever gone DI to this mixer before? It could be hum from phantom power from the board, bad ground to the board/BDDI, or single-coil hum? You’d hear single-coil hum all the time though and know it well by now.
 
Just to clarify, you use the BDDI straight to mixer most times and this time you went straight to the amp and used the amp’s DI out to the mixer? Just curious about what the full signal chain was each time.

yes. Normally I run a bddi to the board. Brought in my 7pro to di with instead. Full chain for bddi is bass>tuner>big muff(which stays off 90% of the time)>bddi>board. Chain for amp is bass>amp>board.
 
yes. Normally I run a bddi to the board. Brought in my 7pro to di with instead. Full chain for bddi is bass>tuner>big muff(which stays off 90% of the time)>bddi>board. Chain for amp is bass>amp>board.
Well I’m certainly curious what you figure out because when gigging is a normal thing again, I was hoping to use my DI the same way.

I’m no professional on these topics but, did you try the pad button too? If you had the -40 engaged and/or the pad on the front engaged it could be a volume vs. noise issue?

In the SVT’s manual it says the tube direct output is not affected by the master but, maybe it is controlled by the gain? Just thinking it could be trying too hard to amplify too little? The manual also doesn’t tell me if phantom power feeding back would be an issue but, the BDDI even has the output labeled w/ “phantom power” so it’s likely got circuitry to protect from that being the cause.

Anyway, just brainstorming, maybe somebody else can chime in with ideas about what it could be.
 
I DI out of mine a lot at church. I never have a hum unless one of my pedals like Vintage Microtubes is already on with a high gain. The only other thing I can think of maybe the ultra high is engaged and you already have high gain and lots of treb going in?
 
curious if anyone here has switched from the 7 to something like the Bergantino Forte or the Mesa TT-800. new amp is really at the bottom of my list, but i’m wondering if either amp is a worthwhile upgrade (considering i don’t really have any issues with the SVT 7 as is).
I'm planning to buy another amp in the next 3 months. Tired of carrying my 7 back and forth every Sunday with my pedal board and a bass or 2. I am debating buying another 7 or buying the TT800 as a 2nd head. I like that it can grind like my 7, but also has another channel.
 
Well I’m certainly curious what you figure out because when gigging is a normal thing again, I was hoping to use my DI the same way.

I’m no professional on these topics but, did you try the pad button too? If you had the -40 engaged and/or the pad on the front engaged it could be a volume vs. noise issue?

In the SVT’s manual it says the tube direct output is not affected by the master but, maybe it is controlled by the gain? Just thinking it could be trying too hard to amplify too little? The manual also doesn’t tell me if phantom power feeding back would be an issue but, the BDDI even has the output labeled w/ “phantom power” so it’s likely got circuitry to protect from that being the cause.

Anyway, just brainstorming, maybe somebody else can chime in with ideas about what it could be.

I DI out of mine a lot at church. I never have a hum unless one of my pedals like Vintage Microtubes is already on with a high gain. The only other thing I can think of maybe the ultra high is engaged and you already have high gain and lots of treb going in?

went in today and boom no hum. At all. Who knows what it was. Life is good
 
I did have some noise one time. Turned out it was the XLR to the snake. I called Ampeg (actually Yamaha) and they said if I have clean signal in my cab, then there is no way I have a DI problem since it is in the same path as the speaker output.

So for any future troubleshooting, if you have clean sound in your cabinet but dirty sound to the FOH, something is wrong external of your head.
 
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I did have some noise one time. Turned out it was the XLR to the snake. I called Ampeg (actually Yamaha) and they said if I have clean signal in my cab, then there is no way I have a DI problem since it is in the same path as the speaker output.

So for any future troubleshooting, if you have clean sound in your cabinet but dirty sound to the FOH, something is wrong external of your head.

Sorry, but having dealt with dozens of bass rigs in my PA life, that’s a crock. It’s not very common, but problems with a line out of an amp can be a factor on its own. I don’t believe that’s Ampeg’s official position, but the position of a tech that simply has it wrong.

The SVT 7Pro I owned at the time had a dead-quiet line out, I’m happy to report. But I’ll never leave out a part of the signal chain when diagnosing a noise problem. If for no other reason, so there’s no doubt about anything.
 
Sorry, but having dealt with dozens of bass rigs in my PA life, that’s a crock. It’s not very common, but problems with a line out of an amp can be a factor on its own. I don’t believe that’s Ampeg’s official position, but the position of a tech that simply has it wrong.

The SVT 7Pro I owned at the time had a dead-quiet line out, I’m happy to report. But I’ll never leave out a part of the signal chain when diagnosing a noise problem. If for no other reason, so there’s no doubt about anything.

Well, they were right. Crock or not. I bought a new XLR and replaced the one I used every week for more than a year from my head to the snake and no more issue. Perfect again; just like they said it would be. I believe them and if I have this problem again, I fully expect it to be the cable or something upstream of that side again.