• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Ampeg SVT 7 Pro Club

It's not in a rack, just on top of the cabinet, and it start happening after 15 minutes playing..
Should I put it in a rack?
Playing at bedroom levels works fine, but I have to raise the volume in the band.

However o would like to point out that I am using the same volume since the beginning and it used to work just fine at same gain/volume brand new.
 
I just went through the owners manual to look up exactly what sends the amp into protective mode and couldn’t find anything.

i don’t have the bandwidth to do a search for it at the moment (it’s 2am here), but i’m guessing protective mode shut down has been covered on the forum before. for my own curiosity, is like to give you a better answer than “just turn down.”. your levels sound fairly normal to me for the cabs you’re running through. if anything, your gain is a little high, but if the threshold light isn’t going wild it shouldn’t be a problem. did you say where you’re running the compressor? i would start with adding compression into your signal and engaging the -15db pad, which i think someone else recommended.

also, my last band played a lot of crust punk kinda stuff, so i was running a ton of dirt in my signal path. i thought having the gain cranked past noon made sense, but i wound up much happier with my tone with the gain backed off to about 9’oclock. with a super loud drummer and a guitarist with a dimed JCM 900, i found that the best way to raise volume was just to keep the mids at or above 3 o’clock.

anyway, see what happens if you back your gain off and raise your mids until you can pinpoint what’s threatening to blow your fuse. good luck!
 
Never tried the active pad, playing a passive rick 4003. It is not hot at all when it happens...guess I was just unlucky...
Maybe you are unlucky. Try the pad, I'm curious if it could change things or not.
Also, could you reproduce the same issue only with you 115 cab?
Do you have any other bass to try?

I use my SVT7 with my two Sadowsky basses. I engage the pad (hot signal from the basses). Gains set at 3, bass and mids set at 9, treble set at 10 and I adjust the master according to the venue. However I could never set it past 12 nor death might occur! I could feel my guts being kick by the low end.
 
Never tried the active pad, playing a passive rick 4003. It is not hot at all when it happens...guess I was just unlucky...
Well, after playing for about an hour at a very high input and very hight output (50%) I managed to make the amp to cut off.
When slapping the amp would suddenly cit off for like 5 secondes and the come back. All I did was rolling of the input a little and the issue didn't come back.

My guess is you amp might not be faulty but there might be something wrong in your signal.
 
Just received a used one from GC. Plugged in for 5 minutes and just shuts off and on. Even when nothing plugged into it. Ridiculous.
 

Attachments

  • 20201224_211501.jpg
    20201224_211501.jpg
    546.1 KB · Views: 42
GC would resell an amp they pulled out of a lake. I’m sure that SVT 7 had a rough life before you got it. Also, i’m probably going to word this incorrectly, but these amps are designed to bypass your input if you’re at risk of blowing the fuse or overheating the unit. it’s a safety mechanism like a circuit breaker. if you read through this thread, there’s a few people that have some great advice on troubleshooting this issue. your amp might be totally fine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DaveDeVille
:jawdrop: Nooooooooooooooo:eek:. Say it isn't true :nailbiting:. Nothing makes sense anymore :unsure:. How can I be sure the sun will continue to rise every morning without your Titan powering the universe :atoz:.

Seriously, this blows my mind!
LOL! Well, I heard from many sources, also here, that parts for the amp were getting harder to find. And my nightmare was to face a huge issue one day that could be beyond any repair. So between two nightmares, I chose the least painful.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wasnex
I have a 7pro. I bought it when they first came out. Mine has been in the shop three times. Its fixed now (took a min. for Loudtec. to figure it out) I use it on four different cabs. And I drive it hard. Just stuff it in a backpack and off to the next gig/practice. Been solid (now). The problem they had has been fixed. Seems as though their are just ALOT of older REVs. still out their having problems and giving the 7Pro a bad rep.
 
LOL! Well, I heard from many sources, also here, that parts for the amp were getting harder to find. And my nightmare was to face a huge issue one day that could be beyond any repair. So between two nightmares, I chose the least painful.

Yes I believe it's pretty much impossible to source authentic power MOSFETs for the output section on the open market. Mesa has a stockpile of the required part, but pretty sure they are reserved for in-house repair.

My solution was to finally send my Titan to Mesa for the reliability updates before all the parts are gone. They did a lot of work on the amp, but the only proprietary part they replaced was the power transformer. To my surprise, they left all of the original power MOSFETs in place.

IMHO no other amp has the massive presence of the Titan; that's why it's so hard to believe that you let yours go.
 
  • Like
Reactions: baxter_x
@Wasnex your input is 100% accurate! And as you mentioned , the biggest problem was the MOSFESTs. When one of my two Titans failed, the tech who repaired it warned me about it. This was confirmed by Mesa and AgedHorse too. The simple fact that this fantastic amp could one day turn into a brick was worse than selling it. Letting it go is still a PITA. I never found any amp that sounded like it. Maybe the M9 came the closest. But I felt it was pretty much impossible to control and was hissing a bit too much for me.

If you have in your mind an amp that comes close, just tell me! ;)

Still, I have to admit the first time I tried the SVT 7 I thought it had to fill big shoes. So I cranked gain and master hard and I simply got really impressed with it. I immediately had to lower it a bit to make sure I wouldn’t blow the cab.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Wasnex
Has anyone got their SVT-7 Pro in a shallow-ish case? Can I see (the back really) if you do?

I want to get the Gator 3U shallow molded case but, their site says “13-inch rackable depth” and the SVT measures about 11.5 deep. Idunno if “rackable depth” means rail-to-rail but, I just want to make sure the power cord isn’t going to get jammed crooked when I close the case...? Anyone?
 
Has anyone got their SVT-7 Pro in a shallow-ish case? Can I see (the back really) if you do?

I want to get the Gator 3U shallow molded case but, their site says “13-inch rackable depth” and the SVT measures about 11.5 deep. Idunno if “rackable depth” means rail-to-rail but, I just want to make sure the power cord isn’t going to get jammed crooked when I close the case...? Anyone?
I bought a wood/tolex rack box for my 7 PRO that is 12" deep. The power cord does stick out past the back a bit, but the back of the box is open and I just remove the power cord when transporting. If you needed a little more room to close the case you could just remove the power cord.
 
  • Like
Reactions: xI Jonathan Ix
Has anyone got their SVT-7 Pro in a shallow-ish case? Can I see (the back really) if you do?

I want to get the Gator 3U shallow molded case but, their site says “13-inch rackable depth” and the SVT measures about 11.5 deep. Idunno if “rackable depth” means rail-to-rail but, I just want to make sure the power cord isn’t going to get jammed crooked when I close the case...? Anyone?

Sounds like you haven't factored in the depth of the lid. Just my opinion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: xI Jonathan Ix

Latest posts