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Ampeg SVT3 Pro PREAMP OUT Balanced or Unbalanced? NEED A DEFINITETIVE ANSWER QUICK!!!

#102
NickFromNY said:
I have the same Crown xls 1002 (and also the 1502) and the input sensitivity is switchable to .775v. That is how I run mine, bridged mono, into either a berg cn410 4 ohm cab or an Ampeg SVT 212-av 4 ohm cab. I have used an Ampeg SVP-Cl preamp, a PF350 and a GK MB200 to drive those power amps using both the preamp out and the xlr out. It can be done, and works well. I have gigged successfully many times. It does not pin the input monitor as far as signal goes, but it gets plenty loud. I posted something about it a while back. either the 1/4 or xlr will work

edit... i do run a Broughton HP/LP pedal between the preamp and power amp when using xlr and can boost the signal through the pedal.
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I ordered the Crown XTI 1002 NOT switchable... constant 1.4v

Still going through posts guys. bbs
 
#103
rickdog said:
The 3Pro output stage is... unique*. It has a tube driver stage (in a configuration that I believe is called a White cathode follower) that drives the gates of the output MOSFETs. The MOSFETs provide no voltage gain, just current gain. There's no AC feedback in the output stage (there's DC feedback to prevent DC offset at the output). There's a variable B+ supply to the driver tubes, controlled by the "Tube Gain" knob. This allows controlling the saturation characteristics of the driver.

So it has some character that is entirely independent of the load on the output.

However, in my experience with my 3Pro, the magic is in the preamp, not the power amp (frankly, I don't like the "tube gain" saturation characteristics). So I think the OP's idea of providing massive clean power to reproduce the preamp signal accurately isn't so crazy.

* There's a schematic for the 3Pro, or at least a link to it, floating around here somewhere. If you can't find it, I'll dig up my copy.
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This dude has the idea. The Preamp is to DIE FOR... the "Tube Gain" on the Power Amp doesn't do as much as some may think. The GAIN in the TUBE PRE AMP will get as close to a CL as you'll find... and as someone else said... yes, a little clip light on this thing is more MAGIC or SIGNAL rather than clip...

Getting closer to the end of posts. bbs
 
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#104
agedhorse said:
Not for bass guitar, but that's only my opinion. Good luck man.
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Check out the B&C website for yourself... believe me, I DID.

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#105
That's ^^^^ just getting on the ridiculous side of their drivers. Thanks for the input everyone!

PS They are pretty much kevlar lined, highly efficient and waterproofed on both sides and with a frequency response of 35k to 20khz (The ones I got at least). Peace.

OH and 3 inch voice coils.
 
#108
agedhorse said:
I might know a thing or two about drivers. One number doesn't describe a driver as you think it does.

Never mind, carry on.
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:facepalm:

Honestly this came across a little garbled to me earlier, but somehow it makes perfect sense now.
agedhorse said:
I deal with this when helping players troubleshoot their problems and listen to them arguing how great the very idea that blew their amp up and telling me that "I just don't understand". Common sense ask how I can't possibly understand the products I designed, but common sense doesn't seem to matter as much these days ;)
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#109
Wasnex said:
:facepalm:

Honestly this came across a little garbled to me earlier, but somehow it makes perfect sense now.
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Blew the Amp or speaker? The above pictures are just for proof that a 12" LF driver can be as high as 1000w rms... That's not MY particular drivers...
Anyways I'll let you guys know how bad either the Amp or Speaker blew.

PS Custom drivers can carry different "numbers" wattage and frequency.

We Ain't talkin' Celestion anymore...
 
#110
BassYerFaceoff said:
Blew the Amp or speaker? The above pictures are just for proof that a 12" LF driver can be as high as 1000w rms... That's not MY particular drivers...
Anyways I'll let you guys know how bad either the Amp or Speaker blew.

PS Custom drivers can carry different "numbers" wattage and frequency.
Click to expand...


With great power comes great responsibility. I am sure you cab is awesome and will sound great with the big amp. But there is a huge difference between a speaker's RMS power rating and its mechanical power handling ability. I am not saying you will blow your drivers. But I am quite confident you have enough power to blow them if you don't use a bit of discretion...so please be careful :thumbsup:.
 
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#111
Wasnex said:
With great power comes great responsibility. I am sure you cab is awesome and will sound great with the big amp. But there is a huge difference between a speaker's RMS power rating and its mechanical power handling ability. I am not saying you will blow your drivers. But I am quite confident you have enough power to blow them if you don't use a bit of discretion...so please be careful :thumbsup:.
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I will be using the limiter on the amp and also input the ohms on it. As I said though... it has a peak rating at 2400w... YES these speakers do exist. Time to juicify some innards. lol
 
#112
Peak numbers mean absolutely nothing to power handling, it's jus a math conversion describing exactly the same thing.

The more you say, the more some of us realize that you don't understand.

Out of curiosity, since you already know it all, and we are collectively so stupid, why did you ask us your question again?
 
#114
agedhorse said:
Peak numbers mean absolutely nothing to power handling, it's jus a math conversion describing exactly the same thing.

The more you say, the more some of us realize that you don't understand.

Out of curiosity, since you already know it all, and we are collectively so stupid, why did you ask us your question again?
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Never said I did.
The original question is at the beginning of the thread... ???
Thanks for the input on the output/input stuff though everyone!

Happy Holidays!
 
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#117
Waltsdog said:
The simplest solution would really be to add more speaker area to get more from what you have and not mess about with any complicated power amp stuff. Or just buy a second matching amp and cab for 900watts if you must :)
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Right. I have 2 410s at home that I use frequently for rehearsals and it works super fine like that - at 4 ohms load.

Problem is that all my 410s are 8 ohm and here sometimes I lack the headroom for some super clean sound scenarios but it is on a very rare occasion. I was thinking about selling all my gear (cabs - the gk410 and aggie db410) and probably opt for 2 ampeg cabs, one being an 810 and the other one a 4 ohm 410. That should do the trick.

Oh and the 2nd amp would be neat :D
 
#118
S.F.Sorrow said:
I'm sure it would be possible with the right equipment but every gain stage adds noise. So amplifying, then attenuating and then amplifiying back up again might give you an unacceptable signal to noise ratio.
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Yeah makes sense. Perhaps a tight voltage regulator would help ease the pain? One will obviously never carry a regulator to the gig but theory-wise this might work?
 

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