this, with the added step of
4) bring in your bass that doesn't buzz to let the tech compare the setup.
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ANNOYED. 2 diffrent techs and my strings still buzz HELP!
- Thread starter emericaSKATER22
- Start date
4) bring in your bass that doesn't buzz to let the tech compare the setup.
I have the same issue
just got my fender J set up last week. 90% of it plays perfect but the D string buzzes between frets 12-15 & 19 but is completely unplayable on frets 16-18. The G string, heh g string, buzzes on the higher frets too. the tech told me that the neck has a twist that's causing the issue. he did what he could with the truss rod and bridge (babicz full contact) but he couldn't get it 100% he did assure me tho, that any additional tweeking would be free. I use an ernie ball hybrid slinky (105, 85, 65, 45).
today i found it very difficult to play Rock The Cashba cleanly (woo-hoo CLASH)... so I'm taking it back to him tomorrow. I didn't even think about a new nut...may try that, may try different strings. i will update this post if there is an imrpovement.
just got my fender J set up last week. 90% of it plays perfect but the D string buzzes between frets 12-15 & 19 but is completely unplayable on frets 16-18. The G string, heh g string, buzzes on the higher frets too. the tech told me that the neck has a twist that's causing the issue. he did what he could with the truss rod and bridge (babicz full contact) but he couldn't get it 100% he did assure me tho, that any additional tweeking would be free. I use an ernie ball hybrid slinky (105, 85, 65, 45).
today i found it very difficult to play Rock The Cashba cleanly (woo-hoo CLASH)... so I'm taking it back to him tomorrow. I didn't even think about a new nut...may try that, may try different strings. i will update this post if there is an imrpovement.
a new nut or strings have nothing to do with it. a less-than-perfect fretboard means that until you get the frets leveled or even replaced, the only fix is to raise the action.
good idea to bring it back, and good on the guy for offering "follow-up tweaks".
good idea to bring it back, and good on the guy for offering "follow-up tweaks".
Being a person who does setup work for fun and profit, I will share this with you. Good communication with your repairman is a must. Do NOT be shy about telling your tech what you want. Be very objective, and informative when he asks you what you want him to do. If you just tell me to "set it up nice", I'm going to set it up how I like it, which is as low as humanly possible.
For the record, I watched your video, and I find that amount of buzz to be acceptable. It's not a bad setup, just not what you want. I say take it back to the guy you paid, and ask him nicely to raise your action slightly.
For the record, I watched your video, and I find that amount of buzz to be acceptable. It's not a bad setup, just not what you want. I say take it back to the guy you paid, and ask him nicely to raise your action slightly.
A guitar (or bass guitar) string vibrates between (usually) two node points with one being the bridge saddle and the other being either the nut or a fret. The shape of the string as it vibrates is a big, long, flattish oval, with the ends of the oval obviously at the node points. Anything that falls within the oval area in which the string vibrates will cause a buzz or rattle. To remedy this, you can:
1. Find a high fret or frets and bring it (them) level with the other frets. Sometimes a fret is loose and sitting up out of its slot, and needs to be glued down. This can be tricky to detect. You mentioned that you get buzz all the way up the neck, so I think we can rule this one out for the most part.
2. Loosen the truss rod to allow the neck more relief, creating a larger space for the string to vibrate. This will have the effect of raising the action, at least over the adjustable portion of the neck.
3. Raise the bridge saddles to allow the string more room to vibrate. This of course raises the action.
4. Decrease the size of the oval in which the string vibrates, by installing lighter gauge strings, or flatwounds, or semi-flats. Roundwound strings are the most likely to rattle. You can accomplish this same end by playing lighter.
When I set up a Bass for a customer, in the absence of specific instruction otherwise, I set the action so that the instrument plays with little to no buzz when played "normally". The strings will of course begin to rattle when the player starts digging in. If a customer wants no buzz whatsoever, up comes the action. If a customer wants a very low action, he's likely going to have to put up with some buzz. I consider buzz that can't be heard through the amp to be a non-issue. If my customer was complaining about strings buzzing, I would ask him if he usually plays with his tone full up, and if not, if he likes a slightly mellower sound, perhaps a set of semi-flats would help. Of course, the customer always has the last word.
I should mention that the whole reason I started working on guitars for people is the result of a "setup" that I paid for, which was significantly worse than the setup that I had already done on my old five-string. I figured, why should I pay someone to screw up my guitar- I can do that for free.
1. Find a high fret or frets and bring it (them) level with the other frets. Sometimes a fret is loose and sitting up out of its slot, and needs to be glued down. This can be tricky to detect. You mentioned that you get buzz all the way up the neck, so I think we can rule this one out for the most part.
2. Loosen the truss rod to allow the neck more relief, creating a larger space for the string to vibrate. This will have the effect of raising the action, at least over the adjustable portion of the neck.
3. Raise the bridge saddles to allow the string more room to vibrate. This of course raises the action.
4. Decrease the size of the oval in which the string vibrates, by installing lighter gauge strings, or flatwounds, or semi-flats. Roundwound strings are the most likely to rattle. You can accomplish this same end by playing lighter.
When I set up a Bass for a customer, in the absence of specific instruction otherwise, I set the action so that the instrument plays with little to no buzz when played "normally". The strings will of course begin to rattle when the player starts digging in. If a customer wants no buzz whatsoever, up comes the action. If a customer wants a very low action, he's likely going to have to put up with some buzz. I consider buzz that can't be heard through the amp to be a non-issue. If my customer was complaining about strings buzzing, I would ask him if he usually plays with his tone full up, and if not, if he likes a slightly mellower sound, perhaps a set of semi-flats would help. Of course, the customer always has the last word.
I should mention that the whole reason I started working on guitars for people is the result of a "setup" that I paid for, which was significantly worse than the setup that I had already done on my old five-string. I figured, why should I pay someone to screw up my guitar- I can do that for free.
