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Another 5- to 8-String Conversion

I've been talking and posting and replying about it frequently enough for what seems like the past 67 years. It's time I actually started doing something about it. So last night, I did start.

This is a project to convert a kit-based Ibanez-inspired 5-string bass into an 8-string. While the bass as-is was *okay,* that's about as far as it got. I have a 5-string that I absolutely love, and this bass, after I got past the initial "I just built a bass" shine, wasn't the greatest of instruments. So as a novelty bit, I wanted to convert it into an 8-string, which I'd wanted for a while, but only to play one song from my old band's repertoire.

So rather than spend $800 - 1000 on a one-trick-pony-that-literally-only-does-one-trick, let's convert and modify a bass that I already wasn't happy with in the first place.
 
To start, here's the bass as it stands as a 5er.
2024-04-30 20.08.53.jpg


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2024-04-30 20.09.08.jpg
 
Confirm the scale length to determine placement of the new bridge. It's a kit based on an Ibanez 33¾" bass.

2024-04-30 20.21.53.jpg


2024-04-30 20.22.05.jpg


That's where the front edge of the saddles should be....but wait. Trying to take intonation potentional in mind, I estimated with best-guesses (and some measurement) where the edge of the bridge should go.
 
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Scale length - you do know the bridge saddles should be located where they were with the original bridge, right? You can't change scale length and use the same neck.
 
Scale length - you do know the bridge saddles should be located where they were with the original bridge, right? You can't change scale length and use the same neck.

I'm placing the new bridge where the saddles match up with the saddle placement of the original. That's what the pencil line on the side represents. So yes, I do know that.
 
Before I left the workshop today, I grabbed the measurements of the original tuner holes, the thickness of the headstock, and the dimensions of the existing nut. I also traced the headstock onto some plain paper so that i can digitize it and work out placement of the bass and treble tuners once I plug the headstock with some maple chunks and re-drill new holes.

The nut might be a challenge, in finding a blank of close-enough dimensions. But since this instrument was from an import kit, I can't imagine it'll be that difficult in finding a replacement part.
 
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Before I left the workshop today, I grabbed the measurements of the original tuner holes, the thickness of the headstock, and the dimensions of the existing nut. I also traced the headstock onto some plain paper so that i can digitize it and work out placement of the bass and treble tuners once I plug the headstock with some maple chunks and re-drill new holes.

The nut might be a challenge, in finding a blank of close-enough dimensions. But since this instrument was from an import kit, I can't imagine it'll be that difficult in finding a replacement part.

This looks like a fun and worthwhile project. That Ibanez frame should work out well as an 8-string. Convert it into something more useful to you.

I recommend making the nut from aluminum. Making an Octave Bass nut from bone can be a frustrating experience, breaking off the little blades between the octave pairs. Aluminum won't do that. And it's not much harder to saw and file than bone. Plus it will add a little more clarity to the high end.
 
This looks like a fun and worthwhile project. That Ibanez frame should work out well as an 8-string. Convert it into something more useful to you.

I recommend making the nut from aluminum. Making an Octave Bass nut from bone can be a frustrating experience, breaking off the little blades between the octave pairs. Aluminum won't do that. And it's not much harder to saw and file than bone. Plus it will add a little more clarity to the high end.

To support Bruce’s statement, I started a 6x2 string ages ago. I have finished at least half a dozen basses since I started it. The reason? I lost the prefabricated Warwick nut I had bought and after a few attempts to cut my own, I gave up. Octave nuts are a PITA.
 
Before I left the workshop today, I grabbed the measurements of the original tuner holes, the thickness of the headstock, and the dimensions of the existing nut. I also traced the headstock onto some plain paper so that i can digitize it and work out placement of the bass and treble tuners once I plug the headstock with some maple chunks and re-drill new holes.

The nut might be a challenge, in finding a blank of close-enough dimensions. But since this instrument was from an import kit, I can't imagine it'll be that difficult in finding a replacement part.


I think I stuck this video up in my thread but here’s one on slotting multi-course nuts. He has another on the same thing. You could look at both. I wouldn’t have thought of using feeler gauges to set the distance between the pairs.

 
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This is a project to convert a kit-based Ibanez-inspired 5-string bass into an 8-string. While the bass as-is was *okay,* that's about as far as it got. I have a 5-string that I absolutely love, and this bass, after I got past the initial "I just built a bass" shine, wasn't the greatest of instruments. So as a novelty bit, I wanted to convert it into an 8-string, which I'd wanted for a while, but only to play one song from my old band's repertoire.
If you don't mind my asking, what kit is this, and where did you get it? It's a shame it didn't work out for you but it sure looks nice.
 
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I have an 8 string bridge (the same that Schecter and ESP use) waiting for the right 5 string bass to do a similar conversion. I'd really like to do it with a short scale, but finding a bass with a big enough headstock and wide enough nut for my liking has proven to be challenging. The current #1 options is an Ibanez TMB35.

Will be following along to see how you tackle the project!
 
I have an 8 string bridge (the same that Schecter and ESP use) waiting for the right 5 string bass to do a similar conversion. I'd really like to do it with a short scale, but finding a bass with a big enough headstock and wide enough nut for my liking has proven to be challenging. The current #1 options is an Ibanez TMB35.

Will be following along to see how you tackle the project!
Firstly I absolutely love this. Isn’t the TMB35 a short scale bass? Also, I am curious how the headstock works for the 5/8 conversion. I have done 4/5 but never thought of a 5/8. Now I want one
 
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Firstly I absolutely love this. Isn’t the TMB35 a short scale bass? Also, I am curious how the headstock works for the 5/8 conversion. I have done 4/5 but never thought of a 5/8. Now I want one
Yeah, the TMB35 is basically the perfect bass for what I want:
  • 30" scale
    • Easier to use guitar strings for octaves if I want.
    • Easier to play, maybe.
    • I don't need longer scale for more tension for more clarity because the octave strings naturally bring clarity.
    • Less leverage so slightly less likely to neck dive.
  • 1.75" wide nut
    • More space for more strings.
    • I kind of want to make a 12 string, actually.
  • Big ol' headstock -
    • More space for more tuners.
    • I've seen people convert a TMB35 to a Bass VI by putting on another full size tuner.
    • I have some Steinberger gearless tuners that I plan on using for the octaves.
    • See above about maybe doing a 12 string instead.
The TMB30 has a narrower neck, otherwise I'd just get one of those because they are plentiful, cheap, and the headstock looks like it's the same size. Whenever I get around to the project, I'll be plugging the original tuner holes and redrilling anyway. A big headstock is better because I'm not tooled up to graft more wood onto a smaller headstock.
 
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If you don't mind my asking, what kit is this, and where did you get it? It's a shame it didn't work out for you but it sure looks nice.

It was from The Fretwire. I don't know if they still exist anymore, but overall, the kit was distinctly average to slightly below average. ;)

The instructions were pretty miserable (and this was only my 2nd build in my life, so was still very much a beginner and needed the instructions to be a lot more accurate than they were). That experience probably added to my dissatisfaction with the overall instrument.
 
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