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ANOTHER SVT7 thread: Replace ICE2A265 chip or entire board?

foulmouthbass

foulmouthbass

Jul 27, 2012
18
44
Bloomington, IN
#1
A brief history for context:
My backup amp for years was an older SVT7 pro. I rarely used it and when I did it wasn't for very long. In recent weeks, I've used the SVT7 more while my main amp was in the shop. You can already see where this is going.

So, yeah, my older rev: D board is cutting out. I've searched this forum and other places on the internet but I haven't been able to come up with a conclusive answer to this question: Is it necessary to replace my rev: D board completely or can I just replace the ICE1A265 chip with the ICE2A265?

I went ahead and purchased a brand new rev:H board because I assumed (maybe naively) that other changes were made to the PCB to address the issue. Plus, things rarely work out that simply for me. Peace of mind is worth a $250 board but cheaper than a new amp.

Ideally, I'd like to sell the old board but I don't want to if replacing the chip doesn't fix the issue. So, is replacing only the new chip necessary to make it functional?
 
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#4
I would replace the whole board. Once you start having issues who knows what else has been damaged or taxed.

With my older 7pro, I proactively replaced the problematic chip. I have a fair amount of electronics repair experience including medical devices. It's not a complex repair but it takes a lot of care to do it right and you can definitely cause more damage while you're in there. Most boards in amps aren't very robust and are pretty easy to damage.

it's a shame they didn't fix this sooner. The SVT7pro is a really great sounding powerful amp.
 
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#7
The ICE1A265 is a known weak point on the older boards and for an electronics tech, replacing the chip is a fairly easy job. What I have seen (even on talkbass ) most people think they can solder, but they cant, and more than one board has been ruined by people who think they can desolder - if you haven't got the proper tools and skills to properly desolder and replace the chip then get it done by a tech. who can.
 
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#8
Hmmm just an 8 pin DIP? That shouldn't be too hard even with little more than a basic small iron and either a deloldering bulb or wick and some decent cutters. Clip the leads on the old chip to remove it, and then take out the remaining leads one at a time using minimal heat (most damage is done trying to get all 8 hot enough to remove at once. The chip is dead, so why even try?) Clean the holes with wick or a suction bulb (my preference), and then insert and solder the new chip, making certain of orientation. Done! It (I'll note that by "small iron" I mean 25 watts or so max, with a fine tip (1/8" or less), not some huge club like tool . . . and if anytning I said does not make sense, then likely this job is more than you are good for . . . )

If this is like most stuff, getting access to the board will likely take more time and effort than the chip replacement.

The trick at this point, though, may be finding the part. The major suppliers I use list the ICE2A265 as obsolete and not available (but was pretty cheap when it was - like $10 or less . . so little riskmin tryingnif you were prepared to spend hundreds on a board anyhow.)

Hmm . . . Looked at the chip mfg's tech notes . . . looks like the ICE3A2065ELJ is what they are calling for to sub the ICE2A265 . . . but be sure to verify and not take my word for it! :)

(Mouser also shows the ICE5AR0680BZSXKLA1 as a sub . . . in stock, $3 . . .)
 
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#9
tadawson said:
... That shouldn't be too hard even with little more than a basic small iron and either a deloldering bulb or wick and some decent cutters.
Click to expand...

Desoldering is a skill most people havent got. - I prefer the Soldapullt ( Link Removed ) - bulbs dont have enough suckage.

I'd also be tempted to use a mill-spec socket - with machined pins. Even though heat cycling can make some chips work their way out of a socket, I think getting some air under the chip by use of a socket would be a good thing.
 
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#10
pgpete said:
Desoldering is a skill most people havent got. - I prefer the Solderpullt - bulbs dont have enough suckage.

I'd also be tempted to use a mill-spec socket - with machined pins. Even though heat cycling can make some chips work their way out of a socket, I think getting some air under the chip by use of a socket would be a good thing.
Click to expand...


The soldapult is my jam!
 
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#11
pgpete said:
Desoldering is a skill most people havent got. - I prefer the Soldapullt ( Link Removed ) - bulbs dont have enough suckage.

I'd also be tempted to use a mill-spec socket - with machined pins. Even though heat cycling can make some chips work their way out of a socket, I think getting some air under the chip by use of a socket would be a good thing.
Click to expand...

I've had both . . . At the end of the day, I prefer a good bulb by a large margin, exceeded only by my vacuum pump driven desoldering station. That is also why I recommended clipping the leads - it makes the process a *lot* easier.

Looking at the power specs for this decice family (the only diff between *165, *265, and *365 is dissipation, so that is clearly a factor in the initial problem), I'm not certain that a socket would dissipate adequate heat.
 
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#12
***UPDATE***

So, simply paying a real eletronics guy $40 to replace a $3 chip seema to have resolved the issue. If you find an SVT7 with an old revision you may want to start there.

Last night, we played at a smaller bar with a miserably hot stage and it had zero isssues. I hope this helps someone save $250 and 8 months waiting by not needing to buy a new circuit board.
 

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#13
foulmouthbass said:
***UPDATE***

So, simply paying a real eletronics guy $40 to replace a $3 chip seema to have resolved the issue. If you find an SVT7 with an old revision you may want to start there.

Last night, we played at a smaller bar with a miserably hot stage and it had zero isssues. I hope this helps someone save $250 and 8 months waiting by not needing to buy a new circuit board.
Click to expand...

:woot: AWESOME! :thumbsup:

Since the recommended chip is supposedly obsolete, which chip did you have installed?
 
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#16
Update:
Sad news. After about a year the amp started dropping power again. It seems there's more going on than just a chip issue. It worked flawlessly for 3 and hour hour stints up until last week. Going to sell it as defective on reverb in February if anyone is interested. Bummer. Time to find an Eden WT800 or Ampeg SVT-4. I'd love an all tube head but I don't have roadies


1968-jack-cassidy-bass-guitar-for-jefferson-airplane-john-william-F67XP4.jpg
 
#19
pgpete said:
Have you considered the Ampeg V12 ? - more watts than the 7 pro .....
Click to expand...
I haven't yet. I don't have a dealer near to try them out and form my own opinion. There's lots of misinformation and strong opinions about the class-d stuff but we'll save that for the gazillion "class-d sucks, bruh" threads. Truth be told, I know I wouldn't hear a difference but my gear choices are seldom rooted in reason and logic. I admit it.
 
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