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Any Rules For Mixing Cabinets?

A 350w head won't be too much of an issue with power sharing inequity. Mix merrily but be aware that taking power from a sensitive 410 to give to a relatively low efficiency 15 may not be the best idea since mixing was invented.

There is a deception at play on stage as the usual course is to put the 15 on the bottom. Having the 410 up high gives you a big earful of your tone and everyone goes yowser 410 plus 115 is the shizzle. But it isn't.
Perhaps in the Southern Hemisphere. Up here, putting a 4x10 on the bottom would sound really awful.:roflmao:
(it's gonna be a another snarkfest, so may as well have some fun with it)
 
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This is going to sound like Captain Obvious, except somehow people miss this. When you want to make changes to your gear, you first need to know what changes you are actually looking for, and then figure out the best way to get them.

It sounds like you just want to add a cab for the hell of it. Your kid is 15, he's probably not playing Madison Cube Garden any time soon. So a low/mid powered head and cheap 4x10 are probably fine for any situation he might find himself in, especially considering the probable gear of his peers (15w SS practice amps, etc...). So he's probably fine with what he has.

But if you want to be super dad and get him something with more volume/better tone, just go out and find an SWR Goliath (III or IV). They can be had for about $300-400 or so. GC will always have some that you can have shipped to your closest store. They are an industry standard for a reason. They sound great, they have high sensitivity (seriously it's like 105db or something insane like that, meaning you get a lot of volume with very little power), and they handle a bunch of power (not a big factor now, but it means it will be nearly indestructable with your kid's crate amp unless he cranks the volume and the bass, which will sound like crap anyway).

So maybe upgrade to that for his next birthday or Christmas or he does a bunch of chores. Then for the next round you can look at upgrading the amp. The field is a lot wider there so I won't make any specific suggestions right now. But that crate head should at least sound pretty decent through the swr cab. And then you just have ONE big heavy cab to worry about instead of 2.

Getting a crappy 15 to add to a crappy 4x10 is not really going to add much of anything, except stuff to carry and squeeze into the car. The benefits of "mixing" are mainly either in the economy of it, or if you are designing a highly customized system for a specific goal. It doesn't sound like either of those are what you're going for. So I would either upgrade to the SWR or something very similar, or just hold what ya got for a while (if I was the dad in this situation I would say "you can either work for it or you can get it for your birthday", etc...).
 
Honestly, for me personally, I don't drop ohmage to get more volume. Thing is, doubling the power doesn't make all that much difference. And in this case, it's not even doubling.

It's not that I think it's irrelevant. Rather, I think it is low on the priority list. The efficiency of the speakers can make a LOT more difference than squeezing out every watt via low ohmage.

Where ohms REALLY matters is when buying speakers. If I think I'll only use the one cabinet I'm buying, I'll get a 4 ohm cab. If I think I MIGHT want to add a second cabinet at some time, I'll get an 8 ohm cab. But I wouldn't just buy a second 8 ohm cab to get more "power" by dropping the ohms.
Granted increasing watts be decreasing ohms does not provide a linear volume increase; however, the increase in the surface area of the speakers moving air is noticeable. I'm not qualified to give any physical data, but that has been my experience whether adding an additional identical cab or mixing cabs. I've done a 2x10 + 1x15 for the last 20 years with good results. YMMV
 
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Granted increasing watts be decreasing ohms does not provide a linear volume increase; however, the increase in the surface area of the speakers moving air is noticeable. I'm not qualified to give any physical data, but that has been my experience whether adding an additional identical cab or mixing cabs. I've done a 2x10 + 1x15 for the last 20 years with good results. YMMV
I agree to a point. My only caveat is that it depends on the particular speakers being used.
 
But if you want to be super dad and get him something with more volume/better tone, just go out and find an SWR Goliath (III or IV). They can be had for about $300-400 or so. GC will always have some that you can have shipped to your closest store. They are an industry standard for a reason. They sound great, they have high sensitivity (seriously it's like 105db or something insane like that, meaning you get a lot of volume with very little power), and they handle a bunch of power (not a big factor now, but it means it will be nearly indestructable with your kid's crate amp unless he cranks the volume and the bass, which will sound like crap anyway).

The other plus with the Goliaths for a fifteen Y/O is the shiny chrome grill. don't discount SWR SOB's a bit cheaper, lighter and 2 of them get plenty loud
 
If I walk into a show and see mixed cabs, I instantly conclude "amateur" and demand my money back.
I, for one, don't want to waste my time listening to any bass player who would mix cabs.
I'll wave to you as you're leaving.

I use a 210XL cabinet with a Hydrive 115. Sounds great in every hall we play in. The cabinet design on the 210 is a passive crossover that rolls off dramatically at about 60hz, but it has a nice hump at about 250hz which adds punch to the 115.
 
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I agree to a point. My only caveat is that it depends on the particular speakers being used.
We agree. I just didn't go into that much detail. The combination I used was a Hartke XL Transient Attack 1x15 (aluminum cone) and an SWR Workingman 2x10 with a tweeter.
I pushed them with an Ampeg B2R using a SansAmp rackmount into the aux-in jack on the Ampeg.
The only reason I replaced it was weight and space.
 
I'll wave to you as you're leaving.

I use a 210XL cabinet with a Hydrive 115. Sounds great in every hall we play in. The cabinet design on the 210 is a passive crossover that rolls off dramatically at about 60hz, but it has a nice hump at about 250hz which adds punch to the 115.
I thought he spoke for all of us!


...I think he was kidding. ;)
 
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We agree. I just didn't go into that much detail. The combination I used was a Hartke XL Transient Attack 1x15 (aluminum cone) and an SWR Workingman 2x10 with a tweeter.
I pushed them with an Ampeg B2R using a SansAmp rackmount into the aux-in jack on the Ampeg.
The only reason I replaced it was weight and space.
This is boring. We need to find something we disagree on. :)
 
Okay. I don't know who you are voting for, but he/she is a useless fool and will destroy the world as we know it.
Will that work?
That has got to be the dumbest thing ever posted on the interwebs. You, sir, are a moron!

And your candidate looks stupid in that pants dress and comb over. He/She is also too old/young and will never get the youth/retired vote. Not to mention the white/black/red/yellow/green vote.

Wow! Now I'm getting into it!
 
That has got to be the dumbest thing ever posted on the interwebs. You, sir, are a moron!

And your candidate looks stupid in that pants dress and comb over. He/She is also too old/young and will never get the youth/retired vote. Not to mention the white/black/red/yellow/green vote.

Wow! Now I'm getting into it!
Yes, now we can have some fun.

Just curious about where you are located.