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Any tips for driving in the snow? (FWD)

G

greekorican

Mar 12, 2009
209
0
#1
Chicago got some snow today, there wasn't very much, but the roads were awful this morning. I had a scary experience today, and there seems to be a lot of guys around here that know cars. Today I was obviously being very careful, trying to drive smoothly, braking before turns, all that good stuff. I was on a side street that was particularly bad, and despite braking early, when I tried to stop at the stop sign, I lost traction and went right through the intersection. The street I crossed had no stop sign, but luckily noone was coming. It was really unsettling.

I drive a '96 Buick Riviera. It may look like a grandma car, but its pretty damn quick for how huge it is. It drives really solid when the roads are nice, but I hate driving it in the snow. This is my mom's old car, so I have a couple experience driving it in the snow, as well as several terrifying experiences like today's. Front wheels spin really easily when you accelerate, it might be a little too quick, or maybe I just want to brag about my car. Slowing that huge car down is hard to do without completely losing traction. I also completely lose control of steering, the car will continue to skid straight ahead. It's mine as of November, and I would hate to wreck that car. I need to learn to control skids and how to regain traction.

I've heard that with a FWD, you want to brake with your left foot while giving it some gas. Rear wheels are supposed to help you gain more traction, and the front wheels will be able to steer. Haven't tested this one out yet, is this decent advice?

Any other tips? Help me not wreck my car!
 
#2
I`d like to know this too. I`ve only tried to drive in snow once(I think it was 3 years ago) from my friends house back to mine and I had to turn around because I was completely unable to control my SUV.
 
#4
Where do you live? If you have snowy winters it would do well to invest in a set of dedicated snow tires and some steelies. Nokian I hear do very very well (Finnish :cool:) in the snow. That right there will solve half your problems. If you're running snow tires you're in for a very long winter, my friend. Tires are such a crucial part of driving, but we take them for granted sometimes because more often than not we think about what's under the hood.
 
#5
In short, left foot braking is a very advanced technique developed for FWD cars by rally drivers. Unless you've got world class driving skills and you've also had lots of practise DONT DO IT!!!

It will help you steer the car, but only by dint of setting up a rear wheel slide that you will then need to control with total precision by modulating the pressure on both brake and throttle. Not many people have the sensitivity to brake with the delicacy and feel required with their left foot - since it doesn't normally do anything it gets no practise.

As you've already discovered, the problems start once the wheels start losing traction. Losing traction can be caused by giving the car too much gas when accelerating - try using the merest whiff of gas, just enough to get you rolling and don't try to accelerate quickly to speed, just let the car gather pace. When you're braking, as you've discovered, you will lose all braking and steering ability once the wheels lock up - the front wheels have to be rolling in order for them to steer the car. My guess is that a '96 Buick doesn't have ABS so try 'cadence braking' this is where you brake as hard as it takes to lock the wheels then, when the wheels lock, release the brakes. Doing this rapidly will ensure that (until you come to a complete stop) the front wheels will still be turning and able to steer.

BUT...remember that you can't change the laws of physics. All of this will take much more distance to have any effect AND there will still be the chance that the grip available to the tyres will still be overcome by the inertia of a big heavy car when turning - so go very slowly and make all movements as smooth as possible
 
#7
What Jools said.

When starting off, don't give it too much gas. You have to get a feel for it, but obviously you're not on drive pavement and need to start slowly.

When stopping, you need to give yourself more distance and start braking sooner. If in a panic stop situation, don't slam on the brakes, instead pump them in a quick succession. Slamming on the brakes and you will lose control and probably wind up spinning around. Pumping the brakes will not only make you stop shorter, but you will also be more able to keep the car in a straight line.

It takes some experience, but it will come as second nature the more you drive in this crap. :D
 
#8
Jools4001 said:
In short, left foot braking is a very advanced technique developed for FWD cars by rally drivers. Unless you've got world class driving skills and you've also had lots of practise DONT DO IT!!!

It will help you steer the car, but only by dint of setting up a rear wheel slide that you will then need to control with total precision by modulating the pressure on both brake and throttle. Not many people have the sensitivity to brake with the delicacy and feel required with their left foot - since it doesn't normally do anything it gets no practise.

As you've already discovered, the problems start once the wheels start losing traction. Losing traction can be caused by giving the car too much gas when accelerating - try using the merest whiff of gas, just enough to get you rolling and don't try to accelerate quickly to speed, just let the car gather pace. When you're braking, as you've discovered, you will lose all braking and steering ability once the wheels lock up - the front wheels have to be rolling in order for them to steer the car. My guess is that a '96 Buick doesn't have ABS so try 'cadence braking' this is where you brake as hard as it takes to lock the wheels then, when the wheels lock, release the brakes. Doing this rapidly will ensure that (until you come to a complete stop) the front wheels will still be turning and able to steer.

BUT...remember that you can't change the laws of physics. All of this will take much more distance to have any effect AND there will still be the chance that the grip available to the tyres will still be overcome by the inertia of a big heavy car when turning - so go very slowly and make all movements as smooth as possible
Click to expand...
i find that if you can move over to the less travelled part of your lane and get the tires on the snow instead of the ice......when stuck or in deep snow keeping the wheels straight will resist less and help to get going......and getting out and clearing snow a little in front of the tires beats trying to push it...backing up to gain momentum works..spinning just heats up the snow and digs a nice icy rut......never use snow tires on my f 150 just all season radials .... i never get stuck and rarely need fwd
 
#9
Number27 said:
make sure you break as late as possible, and when accelarating be sure to jam the pedal to the ground as quickly as possible. the extra torque digs through the snow to the pavement and gives you traction.
Click to expand...

WOW!!:scowl: In addition to this info, the car you plow into will also help stop your momentum. Seriously though, investing in a half decent set (of all 4) dedicated winter tires will make a world of difference. You also have to apply some common sense. Snow and ice automatically means: slow down, allow plenty of extra time, and be prepared to be slightly late to your destination.

+1 for my fellow 'Pegger Jim Campbell about travelling on the snow rather than the ice if there is a choice on your roadway. If faced with a lane of black ice, or a lane of hard packed snow, take the snow.

One general fact that Number 27 got right is that a (straight line) skidding tire will build up resistance in front of the tire to help aid in slowing down quicker. This is the reason I remove the ABS fuse from my Suzuki 4x4. (Unless you really know how to drive in winters, this is highly NOT recommended):hiding:
 
#10
You can travel at a very high rate of speed on a smooth sheet of ice so long as you don't try to steer, accelerate, or brake. Snow does give you better traction. Snow on top of ice = forget about it and stay home.

Stop start and turn slowly, and most importantly; Don't be an *** ****!

I like to honk my horn and wave when I pass the stunningly intelligent individual that blew past me doing 80MPH 10 miles back in a blizzard sitting on his side in a ditch.
 
#13
When driving on snow or generally slippery surfaces (ice, sludge), just slow everything two notches down. The best way to avoid dangerous situations is just to take things slower. In Norway you need to go through a day of driving on a raceway with moveable obstacles you had to try and manouver away from (not so much as a raceway really, don't know how else to explain it though), the raceway being made of made of iron plates (not asphalt) covered in oil to make it slippery as hell to be allowed a driver's lisence. Slowing things down is what I learned was the most important there. In 60 km/h it took nearly 65 metres to break, when driving in 50 km/h it took about 50 metres. Very vague numbers, but it illustrates my point.

Also remember that breaking and turning will not work well on slippery surfaces. If you break on snow, nearly all of your cars grip on the road will be used to break, though ABS-breaks of course helps that, making it more possible to steer while breaking. If you want to do a turn, you will have to let go of the breaks somewhat so that more of the wheel's traction can be used to turning. I use to think that if the wheels' grip equals 100%, and I slam the breaks on a slippery surface, 90%-100% of the traction will be used to breaking, meaning that even if I turn the steeringwheel, manouvering becomes nearly impossible. Then it is better to let go of the breaks a little and free more of the wheel's grip then use that to steer (you will need to let go of the breaks, THEN turn the steeringwheel, if the wheels are at an angle when you let go of the breaks, you will just float along because the wheels won't start turning).

If you don't have ABS breaks, pushing the breaks steadily so the wheels don't lock is a good idea (I guess the will eventually lock whatever you do?). If they do lock, you will, as stated have to let go of the breaks to use the grip on steering.
 
#14
greekorican said:
I've heard that with a FWD, you want to brake with your left foot while giving it some gas. Rear wheels are supposed to help you gain more traction, and the front wheels will be able to steer. Haven't tested this one out yet, is this decent advice?
Click to expand...


DO NOT DO THIS! There are little tricks that high performance, competition drivers can pull off after years of practice but this isn't for Joe Public to start trying out in rush hour traffic in a snowstorm.


The best advice is to practice driving in the snow under conditions that won't be risky to you or other drivers. Go to sparsely traveled roads and carefully experiment with turning, braking, accelerating, etc. in the snow. With experience, you'll get a feel for what the car will do and how you can best control it. Also, all cars behave differently and the type of tires you have will make a huge difference.
 
#15
I recently read something that went like, "98% of Americans say, "Oh crap!" before going into a ditch on a slippery road. The other 2% are from West Virginia and they say, "Hold my beer and watch this!"

Seriously, all of my friends and family have 4-wheel drive vehicles, chains and come-alongs....
 
#16
As others have said, the most important thing is tires.

I used to get a good laugh back in high school, when I was comfortably getting around in my Ford Taurus with winter tires, while goons in their SUVs were sliding all over the place because they had wide rims and low profile sport tires.
 
#17
I try to slow down - this is especially true if you have 4-wheel or all-wheel drive. The reason is that while 4-wheel drive makes it easier to get going in the snow and ice, IT DOES NOTHING TO STOP YOU. It is easy to get overconfident once you are in motion. Another thing to watch is the weight of the car - heavy car = harder to stop.

Best is to only drive when you absolutely have to when it is slippery out.
 
#20
Live in the UP for a few winters.
When you skid steer into the skid and accelerate
Stop sooner
Keep your distance from the other idiots that don't know how to drive in the snow.

Ebrakes aren't for stopping they're for doughnuts

When in doubt stay home and drink
 

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