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Anyone else into automatic wristwatches?
- Thread starter HeavyDuty
- Start date
A safe rule is to not make changes between 10pm to 2am; I go an hour more in each direction (9-3) for peace of mind.
That seem like a big loss per day, to me. If it is doing that, perhaps, the main spring needs demagnetizing. With my two modern autos, one runs about 3 to 4 seconds fast per day, the other one, about 1 1/2 seconds per day slow.
Missed this earlier - this is definitely NOT accurate by the standards of any watch movement of the last 70 years. This watch could absolutely be made to run within +-10sec/day if not better.
yep, that’s what I thought. I’ve worn it for about 6 hours again today and the time is rock solid during the worn time period. I have laid it down again now, but on it’s side instead of last nights on its back.
Ok, wore it longer yesterday and it was still going this morning - yay - and had lost < 1 minute. Again yesterday the time was rock solid against the iPhone time all day when used.
I’m feeling better about it now. I doubt it will be an everyday watch anyway. Happy to just set the date on the mornings I’m going to wear it. If I miss out on the day function working the so be it. The date is moving around properly with usage, just not with the quick push. Can deal with that as well.
I’d like a bracelet for it but in the meantime this strap will do fine - even if it is too short for me. I’m on the first hole. I’m about 7 1/2” wrist, a bit less when I lose this Covid weight.
I should have saif the balance spring may need demaging.
So, saw this thread a week ago and have been thinking about how some amp repair guys can repair old tube amps while others do it well...
With my grandfather’s Girard Perregaux, should I be being similarly picky about finding someone to rebuild/clean/repair it?
Tl;dr
It’s got several decades of solder fumes and my grandmother’s Taryton 100s smoke up in it and the winding/time setting knob’s gear seems to be having at least one tooth worn down (probably from the innards being full of gunk).
poidh:
With my grandfather’s Girard Perregaux, should I be being similarly picky about finding someone to rebuild/clean/repair it?
Tl;dr
It’s got several decades of solder fumes and my grandmother’s Taryton 100s smoke up in it and the winding/time setting knob’s gear seems to be having at least one tooth worn down (probably from the innards being full of gunk).
poidh:
Yes, I would say so. A good thing might be to check on watch forums (eg Watchuseek) to see if there's anyone reputable in your area, or failing that, someone very reputable who you'd be comfortable posting your watch to. I have a guy in Australia work on mine, because none of the local repair places have willingness to source parts for vintage Japanese watches. There are definitely bad repair shops out there, and I've seen photos of incredibly bad 'alternative' methods for fixing a watch when the correct part is unavailable.
I would send it to Girard Perregaux. They likely have the work records and certainly the ability to restore the piece to its original condition. Considering its age, parts are likely no longer available and would have to be fabricated. I wouldn’t trust just anybody to work on it unless they specialize in vintage GP.
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The Seastar is in the hospital.Ok, wore it longer yesterday and it was still going this morning - yay - and had lost < 1 minute. Again yesterday the time was rock solid against the iPhone time all day when used.
I’m feeling better about it now. I doubt it will be an everyday watch anyway. Happy to just set the date on the mornings I’m going to wear it. If I miss out on the day function working the so be it. The date is moving around properly with usage, just not with the quick push. Can deal with that as well.
I’d like a bracelet for it but in the meantime this strap will do fine - even if it is too short for me. I’m on the first hole. I’m about 7 1/2” wrist, a bit less when I lose this Covid weight.
The guy doesn’t seem phased by the issues. I did discover that the watch was jammed at an indicated 10pm when scrolling the date to Tuesday. So I think that may be most of the problem. He will service the watch and says he can get a new date wheel for about $30 Aussie if it is needed.
I decided against a new crystal. It has a few light scratches that he will buff out, and another on the edge which will stay. I’m not interested making it look ‘brand new’, I want it working well and presenting well as a vintage watch that has been used.
I also picked up another vintage watch but a hand winder, not an automatic.
An Enicar, most likely from the mid 1950s. A beautiful watch that hits the nostalgia button for me as it looks remarkably like the watch my Dad had when I was a youngster. Dad had an expansion brace on his in gold to match the case.
Enicar 25 Jewel Ultrasonic
This one isn't an automatic, but with the matching G&L JB-5 I figured y'all wouldn't mind. It's a Citizen Eco-Drive Diver's 200M in titanium, which came with a black silicone strap. I added a Hirsch Ayrton strap, which has a patterned leather top and orange rubber lining. It's completely waterproof and supposedly suitable even for diving. With the titanium case and strap, it's incredibly light, just like the empress JB-5!
BTW, the orange dial is less yellow and more lustrous than it appears in the photo. It really looks great IMO.
BTW, the orange dial is less yellow and more lustrous than it appears in the photo. It really looks great IMO.
Eco-drive is as close as you can get to mechanical. I recently saw this Eco drive at a great price. Bought it. Love it. So much so, I checked out other similar models and just bought a moon phase version on Canada ebay.
Cripes, here I am 4 years later, and still just the same two Seikos...SRP637 and SKZ329. Prices on them have like tripled, though.
BTW...my SRP637 is losing a couple minutes a day, and Seiko wants $200 to clean and adjust. Anyone have better options?
It's more than I paid for the watch, though. But, much less than it would cost to replace it.
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