Are "skinny" strings easier to play?

[Dust2Dust]

I've just recently learned that the pain in my fretting hand is caused from me squeezing the neck when I play.
It was suggested that I lower my action to help with adjusting my technique.

Would it help to go thinner in the strings as well?

I'm at 45 - 65 - 85 - 105 now.

Would switching to 40 - 60 - 80 - 100 help me fret the note using less pressure?

(everything else is equal. I would be going from Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky to Hyper Slinky)

 

[red_rhino]

Empirically, yes. I moved to lighter gauge strings years ago and, in hindsight, should have done it sooner. It’s been a better “fit” for my style. I used the standard 45-105 sets for decades before that. I didn’t switch due to pain or fatigue, but it’s probably supported my playing longevity as I’ve gotten older.

Keep in mind that there is no direct corallation between string gauge and tension. There are plenty of heavier gauge strings with low tension, just as there are lighter gauge strings that run stiffer. However, if a lighter gauge makes it easier to execute what you’re playing, you may end up not working quite as hard to pull it off.

Another thing to consider is neck profile, width, scale length, etc. These have a big impact on hand and finger positioning, how far you have to stretch or frets to span. We often respond to physical moves that are difficult for us by putting more strength and force into the effort to overcome the difficulty, which will lead to problems eventually. Other changes I’ve made include going from 35” scale to 34”, and back to 4-strings from 5’s. Considering a 32” for a few things I like to play that are difficult on a 34”.

It all adds up.

 

[GwenOnBass]

Would switching to 40 - 60 - 80 - 100 help me fret the note using less pressure?

With all due respect

No.

I used to over-grip heavily. Death gripped until the finish on the back of the neck is wore through around the 2nd fret or so. It wasn't the fault of the strings.

The answer is technique.* It does not take a great deal of pressure to fret cleanly, especially on a so-called "medium light" set like .045 - .105. If death-gripping a standard set is habit, it will remain a habit until broken. Strings alone won't do it.

As an experiment, make a game out of finding the absolute minimum pressure needed to fret cleanly. Press lightly just behind a fret.

Disclaimer: I coach approximately 50 bass students.



* assuming the instrument is set up correctly.

 

[Prodigus Filius]

As strange as it sounds, a thicker neck is probably better for wrist pain than a thinner neck. A thinner neck means more palm curl which means more wrist curl which can lead to or exacerbate wrist issues. Of course all this is foggied by how strongly the grip is applied and how much tension is being exerted on the string which brings up the change in gauge. You’d have to say a smaller gauge, less tense string is easier to depress. All things being equal

 

[Dust2Dust]

As strange as it sounds, a thicker neck is probably better for wrist pain than a thinner neck. A thinner neck means more palm curl which means more wrist curl which can lead to or exacerbate wrist issues. Of course all this is foggied by how strongly the grip is applied and how much tension is being exerted on the string which brings up the change in gauge. You’d have to sat a smaller gauge, less tense string is easier to depress. All things being equal

I was wondering about that too. The pain is between my wrist and the bottom of my thumb. A thicker neck sounds like something that might help.

 

[Geepers]

The pain is between my wrist and the bottom of my thumb..

Check that your wrist is relatively flat (most of the time) too. Overall the hand needs to feel relaxed. When you get this right it almost feels like your hand is a separate entity and does things by itself with no input from you. Kinda spooky at first if you’ve been a “gripper”.

 

[Major Seven]

I've just recently learned that the pain in my fretting hand is caused from me squeezing the neck when I play.
It was suggested that I lower my action to help with adjusting my technique.

Would it help to go thinner in the strings as well?

I'm at 45 - 65 - 85 - 105 now.

Would switching to 40 - 60 - 80 - 100 help me fret the note using less pressure?

(everything else is equal. I would be going from Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky to Hyper Slinky)

I switched to GHS pressurewound 40-96 for the same reason. It helped some but nowhere near as much as lowering the nut slots.
That helped 10x as much. It also won't let you pluck as hard so you can easily develop a light touch.
it is however irreversible without a new nut.

 

[Major Seven]

I was wondering about that too. The pain is between my wrist and the bottom of my thumb. A thicker neck sounds like something that might help.

This too.

 

[JRA]

Would switching to 40 - 60 - 80 - 100 help me fret the note using less pressure? (everything else is equal. I would be going from Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky to Hyper Slinky)

sure, if "everything else is equal." but it's actually a gestalten, with many variables (strings, neck profile, setup, 'technique', hand/fingers, habits: good/bad/other, whatever, etc). edit: an over-compensating, unconscious death grip is a lack of technique --- it's an unhelpful, unnecessary habit.

so: a question asking for either vs. or answers will yield responses of the same ilk. you didn't hear it here first.

compliant string sets ("low tension") are typically easier to play if you want "easy" (less muscle) to stop a note. among specific brands/models, skinnier sets would be easier than heavier/thicker gauges.

 

[red_rhino]

I switched to GHS pressurewound 40-96 for the same reason. It helped some but nowhere near as much as lowering the nut slots.
That helped 10x as much. It also won't let you pluck as hard so you can easily develop a light touch.
it is however irreversible without a new nut.

The pressurewounds are a great lighter gauge string. IME, they’re also a bit stiffer, so their light gauge feels similar to a medium gauge of other bass strings, but a bit bendier; great both finger style and slap. I had them on several of my basses without having to make any mods to the nut slots; just some very minor tweaks to bridge saddles and neck relief (on one bass). I still have them on my P bass going on several years now. They sound great.

 

[Pings Bass]

With all due respect

No.

I used to over-grip heavily. Death gripped until the finish on the back of the neck is wore through around the 2nd fret or so. It wasn't the fault of the strings.

The answer is technique.* It does not take a great deal of pressure to fret cleanly, especially on a so-called "medium light" set like .045 - .105. If death-gripping a standard set is habit, it will remain a habit until broken. Strings alone won't do it.

As an experiment, make a game out of finding the absolute minimum pressure needed to fret cleanly. Press lightly just behind a fret.

Disclaimer: I coach approximately 50 bass students.



* assuming the instrument is set up correctly.

I second this

You should be able to fret a note with your thumb barely touching the back of the neck. Use your arm muscles to gently pull, not your hand muscles to squeeze

This seems like something most self-taught bass players don't get, and then they end up trying to fix bad technique with setups and strings that can compromise the sound and playability of the instrument.

 

[Dust2Dust]

Use your arm muscles to gently pull,

That was the piece still missing from the puzzle!

I get it now Thanks!

 

[singlemalt]

Want to try super lights for cheap?

Last time I bought these on sale they were $14.

GHS makes a set of Boomers in .030. Super fun.

I went super light years ago. Once you get your set up, and lighten up on the touch, it’s very nice. At this point, any thing heavier or stiffer just doesn’t work for me. TI jazz flats are my stiffest set.

I buy strings from Payson in sets of 90-32.

For a taste, just tune down half a step and see what that does for you.

If you are a heavy handed player, a determined to stay that way, you’ll go back to heavy strings.

Give it shot and see the light!

 

[mambo4]

Lighter strings and set up will help a little, but mindful practice is the real fix.

This post has a good clip of Gary Willis demonstrating finger pressure exercises https://www.talkbass.com/threads/pain-in-fretting-hand-thumb.1629945/#post-27965536

 

[Dust2Dust]

For a taste, just tune down half a step and see what that does for you.

There's something I didn't think of either Thanks

 

[Carl Hillman]

How low do you wear your bass?

If it is causing you to bend your left wrist a lot, you might try raising your axe up a bit before you go changing strings. The right height should be where your left and right wrists are both bent the least when you play.

It's a "happy medium" thing.

 

[Dust2Dust]

How low do you wear your bass?

Actually, I've been wearing it pretty high. I need to lower it to get it where you say it should be. I'm cool with that.

 

[Swerve]

Not for me. I prefer some meat on the bone. Standard 45-105 works great, but I've gone heavier. Skinny strings slip under my fingers easily and just feel weird. If I want thin strings I'll pick up my guitar.

 

[GIBrat51]

I've just recently learned that the pain in my fretting hand is caused from me squeezing the neck when I play.
It was suggested that I lower my action to help with adjusting my technique.

Would it help to go thinner in the strings as well?

I'm at 45 - 65 - 85 - 105 now.

Would switching to 40 - 60 - 80 - 100 help me fret the note using less pressure?

(everything else is equal. I would be going from Ernie Ball Hybrid Slinky to Hyper Slinky)

As others have said; not necessarily. Only 3 of my 27 basses wear something other than flats; and, of those flats? All but 2 basses wear flats that are 40-100s. - or heavier. Those 2 wear 39-96 La Bella 760FX's; the basses are Danelectros, and they wear the really light flats, because I want the "Vintage Dano sound" from them. Yes, lighter gauge strings usually are more flexible, and have less pull-to-pitch tension; but that's not a hard and fast rule. What you need to do, is set your bass(es) up so that you can have the neck(s) as straight as possible - without buzzing - and, the relief as low as possible. The whole idea is to work the neck as little as possible; a light touch should be all you need to fret cleanly. If you can get your bass set up like that? Well, I had one of my Gibson Thunderbirds set up like that - with very high tension, bridge-cable stiff Rotosound RS77LD Monel Flats. My fretting hand was...very, very happy. Not quite as effortless as fretting the low tension, uberflexible TIJF's on my Alembic Epic, but... not far off. Proper set-up, and learning to use a lighter touch, is the main thing...

 

[jholling]

As someone who has struggled with arthritis for some time now, I can agree with almost every suggestion that has been listed here. My “answer” was a combination of multiple things. I’ll save you the long story, but my suggestion is to take your time and try one variable at a time. Also, borrow basses or strings to try them out if you can. You can go broke trying different combinations.

One last thing, I’ve had great luck with Labella tapewound strings. The string gauge is fairly large, but the tension is really low. When my hands really hurt, my best medicine is my thin necked Ibanez with tapes.

Good luck.