Ashbory (Guild/DeArmond/Fender) Club

[bajodemierda]

Fender and DeArmonds are the same beasty. Hardshell Uke cases the ones that are hard foam covered with cordura fit these very well. I put a little folded cloth beneath body to hold it level. The chance that G strings break from OEM case rubbing them is removed.

I've played Ashborys since the early '90s. The Largesound site compares them. The Dearmond Fenders have improvements. The most significant is that the pickup design is more robust.

I flip the bass around in the bag and have no problems with G breakage. Save one string but that came w/bass so I don't count it. Lol

 

[chadds]

If someone has a Guild the tuners aren't that onerous. I can see if you didn't know and just purchased it without instruction. Worked for all those banjos forever. You hold the key at pitch and finger tighten the screw. They stay put. This technique can be done with one hand. The change to geared tuners hopefully made them more accessible to all players.
I have a black one and a rare white one. Played a lot of gigs. Three times a week for a year one time. The pickup came apart was repaired and then was not repairable. I switched to the DeArmond/Fender. Studio sessions every other week.

 

[DanAleks]

I didn't know that. About the pickup. I did see a guy who used a compound bow case and fixed up the inside.
That was pretty intense.

Kinda like this?

 

[Glazenn]

I got my Fender Ashbory (see post #334) early this month and installed the original string set shown on the pictures. The strings were bought in 2006 with the bass and were still in the original bag. They looked so short that I first thought they were just left over pieces ...
I have played fretless bass guitar since 2016, but I realize my fingers are not thin enough for the Ashbory, and I'm lost past the 12th 'fret'.
I brought it to my jazz band rehearsal last week and they liked the sound. I was not happy at all with my playing, namely the intonation, even up the neck.
Unfortunately, the G-string is buzzing too strongly. Is there anything I can do with the bridge?
I was thinking of giving up, but my mates insisted it would take time to master such an instrument, which is true when I remember how hard it was with my first fretless bass guitar.
Maybe a club number would help...

 

[bajodemierda]

Kinda like this?

View attachment 4969609

View attachment 4969610

Yes, exactly like that. So you're the guy...

 

[chadds]

I got my Fender Ashbory (see post #334) early this month and installed the original string set shown on the pictures. The strings were bought in 2006 with the bass and were still in the original bag. They looked so short that I first thought they were just left over pieces ...
I have played fretless bass guitar since 2016, but I realize my fingers are not thin enough for the Ashbory, and I'm lost past the 12th 'fret'.
I brought it to my jazz band rehearsal last week and they liked the sound. I was not happy at all with my playing, namely the intonation, even up the neck.
Unfortunately, the G-string is buzzing too strongly. Is there anything I can do with the bridge?
I was thinking of giving up, but my mates insisted it would take time to master such an instrument, which is true when I remember how hard it was with my first fretless bass guitar.
Maybe a club number would help...

Suggestion lay on the couch and lay the headstock on your clavicle. Unplugged. It will sound through your body. Actually amazing. Play it without looking down. I can't speak to the buzzing. It should work. I have numerous and none buzz. Perhaps you should pluck more gently and crank your amp. "Fret" intentionally gently. Only make a note at a time. My professional violinist friends do this. They don't shred. Then they shred but with that light purposeful technique. Hope this helps.

 

[chadds]

Suggestion lay on the couch and lay the headstock on your clavicle. Unplugged. It will sound through your body. Actually amazing. Play it without looking down. I can't speak to the buzzing. It should work. I have numerous and none buzz. Perhaps you should pluck more gently and crank your amp. "Fret" intentionally gently. Only make a note at a time. My professional violinist friends do this. They don't shred. Then they shred but with that light purposeful technique. Hope this helps.

On the LargeSound site they mention to be sure your string leaves the post at the bottom as this provides the down force over the nut to prevent buzzing.

 

[Glazenn]

Thank you, it's what has been done for all 4 strings.
The E-string is reversely wound on the post.
Buzzing on the G-string occurs between 5th and 10th 'frets'.
I will check tomorrow if plucking more softly leads to any improvement.

 

[DanAleks]

Yes, exactly like that. So you're the guy...

Yep.

The case is an arrow case.
A bow case can be really expensive but an arrow case cost me about $25 (in 2015).
I used a big honkin' serrated bread knife to cut out the existing foam from the case.

A 4 X 8 sheet of egg crate foam from The Foam Factory was about $30 and I had a lot of foam left over for other projects.
If you cut the foam a little large you won't need to glue it in.

 

[bajodemierda]

If someone has a Guild the tuners aren't that onerous. I can see if you didn't know and just purchased it without instruction. Worked for all those banjos forever. You hold the key at pitch and finger tighten the screw. They stay put. This technique can be done with one hand. The change to geared tuners hopefully made them more accessible to all players.
I have a black one and a rare white one. Played a lot of gigs. Three times a week for a year one time. The pickup came apart was repaired and then was not repairable. I switched to the DeArmond/Fender. Studio sessions every other week.

That

Yep.

The case is an arrow case.
A bow case can be really expensive but an arrow case cost me about $25 (in 2015).
I used a big honkin' serrated bread knife to cut out the existing foam from the case.

A 4 X 8 sheet of egg crate foam from The Foam Factory was about $30 and I had a lot of foam left over for other projects.
If you cut the foam a little large you won't need to glue it in.

Thanks much. I'm just getting back to gigging and I have a cheapo lucite Dan Armstrong looking thing. So I'm bringing the Ashbory with me for cool sound and back relief.

 

[chadds]

Here is a Uke case. The fit is ideal. Notice E string is reverse wound to pull straight. These are the EBay silicone strings. They are a bit better than OEM Fenders. To me.

 

[chadds]

Baritone Uke case.
Since this is Talk Table, that table is a century old. Lay a soft towel on it and place an Ashbory on it. It roars. Were it portable I wouldn't have to bring an amp. Holding it and reaching around it has discouraged me from giving birth to the actual Talk Table site.
The possibility of discussing vintages, tone woods and finishes is seductive however.

 

[bajodemierda]

Baritone Uke case.
Since this is Talk Table, that table is a century old. Lay a soft towel on it and place an Ashbory on it. It roars. Were it portable I wouldn't have to bring an amp. Holding it and reaching around it has discouraged me from giving birth to the actual Talk Table site.
The possibility of discussing vintages, tone woods and finishes is seductive however.

I have a 110 year old flip down lid desk. I second that on Talk Table.

 

[chadds]

I have a 110 year old flip down lid desk. I second that on Talk Table.

Is this flip down lid desk good for metal?
Is 100+ years really vintage?
Is oak the best tone wood?
My 1980 Ikea table is as good as your 110 year old specimen.
Veneered sawdust and glue press board is as good as 100 year old mahogany.
Cherry, Oak or Walnut best for funk.
Four legs. Does anyone really need Five?
Do you perform with a Table Cloth or Place Mats?
Does size matter? How many Leaves in your table?

 

[chadds]

You know about the blue dyed strings?

Tell us about the blue dyed strings please.

 

[chadds]

I absolutely agree. Nothing is as good. I didn't bring them up as I'm still in mourning. The way I play which is in an upright position and tuned B-D I've gotten some okay results with other types. I have some prototype silicones from a major distributor. My Ashbory looks funny with orange and white strings. They are near but not close. They are different so I use them on a different bass for different effect.

I just ordered some "Highs" so I'll post a review.

I received the High strings.
I tried to reach them but it bounces questionably to my own email.
I have owned a small business and don't want to nay say but I must be honest.
I've said previously I've tried every Uke and Ashbory string available. The Urethane and the Silicone. I have even tested some samples of silicone cord that are the correct "shore." Those are 60% there toward being musical.
I gig the Ashbory professionally live and studio. I have since the early '90s.

So the Highs. Not so good. They are inconsistent up and down the same string. They are inconsistent string to string. Greater volume of tone production. They have a warble unclarity on one note and clear a fret space up. This for me makes them useless.

Recognizing how good the OEM Guilds were all else is a big drop down. The strings sold on Ebay are the closest but not the same. OEM Fenders are next but barely good. These, were they consistent, would be beneath OEM Fenders in actual note production. The demo on their site is some guy who doesn't play and says he has the Ashbory for a photo shoot. It is obvious to me that you just can't run some gauges of silicone and say you made strings. They should be played by a player and critiqued from a musician' perspective.

It is completely possible that I have a bad run. Yet I can't reach them. I would have preferred to keep this private until they had a chance to respond, investigate my findings and to extend some form of customer service.
I wanted a great string and to write a glowing review.

 

[Glazenn]

Thank you Chadds, very useful to know

 

[charl39]

Suggestion lay on the couch and lay the headstock on your clavicle. Unplugged. It will sound through your body. Actually amazing. Play it without looking down. I can't speak to the buzzing. It should work. I have numerous and none buzz. Perhaps you should pluck more gently and crank your amp. "Fret" intentionally gently. Only make a note at a time. My professional violinist friends do this. They don't shred. Then they shred but with that light purposeful technique. Hope this helps.

I second this. I also have large hands and so I just don't play above the 12th fret. If you're into high-pitched soloing, perhaps just use a standard bass. It's hard playing intentionally softly when you've been a rock bassist for 40 years, but all it takes is some practice (like everything else in life). Practice playing scales, slowly at first to get used to the intonation of the guitar, then faster and faster, but keep your touch as light as possible. And it really works. I don't look at my left hand any more, my eyes are on the chart and on the MD all the time.

 

[charl39]

A question about batteries. I've had my Ashbory for about 15 years and have never changed the battery. It's still working fine. How long are they supposed to last? I'll change it anyway as I'm gigging it every week at the moment, but 15 years seems a long time for a 9-volt battery!

 

[mongo2]

If someone has a Guild the tuners aren't that onerous. I can see if you didn't know and just purchased it without instruction. Worked for all those banjos forever. You hold the key at pitch and finger tighten the screw. They stay put. This technique can be done with one hand. The change to geared tuners hopefully made them more accessible to all players.
I have a black one and a rare white one. Played a lot of gigs. Three times a week for a year one time. The pickup came apart was repaired and then was not repairable. I switched to the DeArmond/Fender. Studio sessions every other week.

I have a couple of old Guild Ashborys and what you say about the tuners is spot on. I also have one in white but it has a wonky pickup and early one in black without binding and a single digit serial number.