Avoiding twist/damage to string when installing strings?

[OldSchoolFlats]

Any best practices to avoid twisting/damaging a string when installing a new string set?

I would like to think I am pretty careful, but after having an "extra zingy" string recently, I wanted to make sure I was doing it right:

• First, I run the string through my fingers to make sure it is not twisted.
• Then I carefully string through the bridge, then carefully run it under my string-tree above my nut.
• I crimp the string 90 degrees, and cut.
• I wrap the string once around the peg (so I don't have so much winding to do), then stick the crimped end into the hole at the bottom of the peg.
• Finally, I tighten to pitch, making sure I have 2-3 windings, winding down towards the head.

I have watched several videos over the years, but thought the folks here might have some tips...

 

[BlueTalon]

First of all, I don't think "extra zingy" is a symptom of a string that has been twisted or damaged during installation.

I don't bother running the string through my fingers. It's going to un-twist just coming out of the package. Now, I am careful not to re-introduce a twist during installation, but I don't see any need for that step.

I bend my strings 90 degrees twice before clipping the ends. If you look at your installed strings, they have two 90 degree bends in them. One coming out of the tuner hole and going to the edge of the tuner post, and one as it turns the corner to wrap around the post. I just put those bends in the strings before the strings do it themselves as I install them.

On my Fenders and Fender style instruments, I leave the space of two tuners for winding. For example, on my E string, I'll put the two bends in, and then clip it where the D string tuner is, and that leaves me with about two-three wraps around the post, which IMO is optimal.

First I'll stick the string end into the tuner hole, then I'll wrap the string once, maybe twice (depending) around the post before tightening. I keep tension on it with my fingers until it's most of the way tight, but before it's fully tightened, I'll make sure the ball end is free to move. That allows any twist to be released.

(Yes, I use colored strings.)

 

[LetItGrowTone]

A string actually must twist (not just bend) as it's installed, but the deformation and stress from that can hopefully be isolated to the section of the string actually on the peg if, when we...

...keep tension on it with my fingers until it's most of the way tight...

...this is done with a finger right at the peg, rather than pinching some inches away.
I tried to explain it in this post.

 

[BlueTalon]

A string actually must twist (not just bend) as it's installed, but the deformation and stress from that can hopefully be isolated to the section of the string actually on the peg if, when we... [...keep tension on it with my fingers until it's most of the way tight...]

...this is done with a finger right at the peg, rather than pinching some inches away.
I tried to explain it in this post.

I keep tension on the strings by using my thumb near the tuner to keep the string below nut level so it will wind down the post easily, while using my fingers to elevate the rest of the string and take up the slack. I understand the rationale for doing it the way you do it, but I believe I accomplish the same thing by allowing the ball end to rotate freely just before tightening the string all the way.

It's probably worth pointing out that as I give the string its first wrap or two around the post, it will twist the string if the other end is bound up. However, if the other end is able to turn freely, there's no twist. So after I wrap the string around the post and before I start tightening, I allow the ball end of the string to move freely, and untwist itself if there was a twist in it. That's how I do it, and I've never had a problem doing it that way. I can't remember the last time I put a string on and it didn't ring clear with no funkiness.

Note, after I wrap the string around the post, and as I'm tensioning the string as I tighten it, the ball end is in the bridge and pretty much locked in place. So for that period of time, the ball end can't move freely. That's why, before I'm finished tightening, I push the ball end out of the bridge and allow it to move on its own again before finishing tightening.