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Double Bass Baby Bass megathread
- Thread starter nil
- Start date
- May 6, 2003
- 5,272
- 160
- 64
- Disclosures
- Proprietor Fifth Avenue Fret Shop. Technical Editor Bass Gear Magazine
I think Jan-Al has made a few, so they should have the dimensions on file. www.janalcase.com
Azola isn't taking anymore orders, but I really like this one: Link Removed
Who are you touring with???
You should be able to lower them to under 1/4" off the board with no buzz. I'm not convinced that the bridge is the issue. If the bass is stock, then at one point it was most likely set up with lower action.
Do the strings get higher off the board toward the end? Can you measure how far the end of the board is from the top of the bass? Maybe the neck angle is off and can be shimmed.
Thanks - From the top of the fiberglass body to the bottom of the end of the fretboard is 4.4 cm. I did adjust the neck with the allen wrench per the manual, but that's as far back as it would tilt. To check to see if the neck/fretboard was straight, I fretted a G on the Es tring, then also fretted the Octave and then slid to the end of the fingerboard and it looks OK. Seems as if the neck just wont tip back far enough.
@Nickbass- I'm going out with Eddie Palmeiri to Cancun Mexico.. I had a flight case but then gave it alway cause I was traveling so much without it
( haahhaaha Now, I'm looking for one to stay with..
( haahhaaha Now, I'm looking for one to stay with..
My guess is that it is more the neck joint than the bridge. A new bridge might solve the issues, but shimming the neck might be another option to consider.
Anyone else have any thoughts???
That is one awesome looking Ampeg BB4. And as was stated before, it is an early one for sure! It even has the rubber damper. Personally I would'nt go messing around with modifying the electronics or putting that ugly Schaller pick up. It is what it is. Anything you do to 'improve' upon the sound is not an improvement, but a differant sound entirely and will destroy it's originality and value. That's just my opinion. As far as the action, if none of the oem adjustments help then any good luthier can handle that problem and make it playable. But you may have to buy a new bridge.
Once the fingerboard or neck is cut to repair a bow, the bridge may no longer be usable. I suppose one may be able to file down the foots of the aluminum bridge by an 1/8" if it's do-able. I think the two are about a 1/4" in height and all you'll have to do is center a dimple in the foots to fit over the dimpled disc. But if that won't lower the action then a new wooden bridge is in order.
On mine I dropped the bass on stage back in the 80's and I cracked the fingerboard. I had a new fingerboard made but the aluminum bridge was useless since the adjustments were now differant. I had to have a new bridge made from quatersawn hardwood maple. I lost the original aluminum bridge as the years went by.
Good luck and enjoy that gorgeous instrument. Play the heck out of it. It was meant to be played and not stored!
By the way were you get that cool ruler you measured with? I'd like to get one too but in English scale.
That is one awesome looking Ampeg BB4. And as was stated before, it is an early one for sure! It even has the rubber damper. Personally I would'nt go messing around with modifying the electronics or putting that ugly Schaller pick up. It is what it is. Anything you do to 'improve' upon the sound is not an improvement, but a differant sound entirely and will destroy it's originality and value. That's just my opinion. As far as the action, if none of the oem adjustments help then any good luthier can handle that problem and make it playable. But you may have to buy a new bridge.
Once the fingerboard or neck is cut to repair a bow, the bridge may no longer be usable. I suppose one may be able to file down the foots of the aluminum bridge by an 1/8" if it's do-able. I think the two are about a 1/4" in height and all you'll have to do is center a dimple in the foots to fit over the dimpled disc. But if that won't lower the action then a new wooden bridge is in order.
On mine I dropped the bass on stage back in the 80's and I cracked the fingerboard. I had a new fingerboard made but the aluminum bridge was useless since the adjustments were now differant. I had to have a new bridge made from quatersawn hardwood maple. I lost the original aluminum bridge as the years went by.
Good luck and enjoy that gorgeous instrument. Play the heck out of it. It was meant to be played and not stored!
By the way were you get that cool ruler you measured with? I'd like to get one too but in English scale.
I found the ruler with the slider thing in my girlfriends sewing kit
lolA friend of mine gave me an old cello bridge that I cut down and used just to see if a new bridge would fix the action issue (allowing the neck to be properly adjusted) and it worked. So, now that I know it will work - I'm going to see about getting a wooden BB bridge since the cello one obviously wont work due to width. Hopefully this will get it out and playing again!
It even has the rubber damper. Personally I would'nt go messing around with modifying the electronics or putting that ugly Schaller pick up. It is what it is. Anything you do to 'improve' upon the sound is not an improvement, but a differant sound entirely and will destroy it's originality and value.
Stupid question - what is the "rubber damper" ? Is that the thing between the bridge and the tail piece? Looks like a string spacer?
I dont plan to alter the current electronics at all, or make any mods to the bass that can't be 100% reversed. Problem I have with it is that I play a P-bass in my oldies band, and when I switch over to BB, the diaphram pup just doesnt work that well. Sounds great for bowing - but I never use a bow.
I was thinking of trying to rig up some kind of magnetic pup, that doesnt alter the bass permanently and running that into ch. 1 of my B15, and then run the diaphram pup into ch 2 of the B15 so I can blend both together as needed.
I'm sure you're tired of hearing this but Steve Azola made compatible pick-ups that had a pre-amp on them. They are BB pick-ups modified to upgrade the sound. It gave you the option of keeping the traditional sound, changing, or blending it, and used on the later re-issued ABB's. I'm purty sure those easily drop into the instrument for a perfect fit if they can be found, (write Ampeg?). Another alternative is to have Steve wire it up for you. That is if you can find him.
Sad thing is that Steve is going through some personal changes and I'm not sure were he stands. I think he updated his web site to reflect on that. He repaired my pick-ups back in 2003, (I swear this gentleman and his wife were geniuses with hearts of gold). I, along with so many others will miss his craftmanship dearly. He's the only one I know that delt specifically with the ABB. All the others I've read about here make their own type of EUBB and may be a hit or miss.
The rubber damper/spacer, (1965/66) is in place of the Ampeg tailpiece that came with the later ABB's. Quick favor, can you note the exact dimensions of the aluminum bridge, (height, width, length), and post a pic? I lost my oem bridge years ago and I'm kind of an info ratpacker.
Attached is a pic of my ABB's tail piece....the later ones..
Sad thing is that Steve is going through some personal changes and I'm not sure were he stands. I think he updated his web site to reflect on that. He repaired my pick-ups back in 2003, (I swear this gentleman and his wife were geniuses with hearts of gold). I, along with so many others will miss his craftmanship dearly. He's the only one I know that delt specifically with the ABB. All the others I've read about here make their own type of EUBB and may be a hit or miss.
The rubber damper/spacer, (1965/66) is in place of the Ampeg tailpiece that came with the later ABB's. Quick favor, can you note the exact dimensions of the aluminum bridge, (height, width, length), and post a pic? I lost my oem bridge years ago and I'm kind of an info ratpacker.
Attached is a pic of my ABB's tail piece....the later ones..
Attachments
Independant channels on the Portaflex? If it is that's so freakin cool! I have a Peavy amp that I just found out does the same thing, (A/B channels are independant and each have their own gain). Back in the day I had a B-15 but was'nt aware of that capability. The only thing I dug or understood was the flip top lol!
I remember I also attached a barcus-berry #3150 transducer on my bridge. Did'nt work for me, (it sounded as it was, bridge plucking...that's strickly for a traditional 3/4 bass). But now that I know I have blending capabilities on my amp.....wow! I think I'll try out the transducer again!
I'm curious...you're going from a Precision to an Ampeg in an oldies band. It is a drastic change in sound, what are you trying to achieve with the BB? An acoustic upright sound?
Yes, I had seen the Azola site and saw that they were no longer in business. That was part of the reason I had considered the Schaller pup. In the oldies band, I could use the P-bass for everything - we just thought it would add visually to the "fun factor" to use the BB since no one in our area uses an upright/double bass in live settings. As far as sound, if I could get the BB to sound like an electric with flats - that would be fine with me, and it would be more consistent for the soundman. I know that's not what a BB is all about - but it would really enhance the "show" aspect to use the BB on certain tunes.
The Portaflex I have is a '63 B-15N. All of the tube B15 Portaflexes ('60 - '80) had two independant channels, each with a volume, treble, and bass control. Later ones had ultra hi/lo switches added. You can set each channel up for a different bass, or you can run an effects signal into one, keep the other dry, or you can even jump/bridge the channels like on old Marshall guitar heads. The Baby Bass manual even has a suggested setting for the Portaflexes: Treble = 9:00, Bass = 3:00, Volume as needed.
The Portaflex I have is a '63 B-15N. All of the tube B15 Portaflexes ('60 - '80) had two independant channels, each with a volume, treble, and bass control. Later ones had ultra hi/lo switches added. You can set each channel up for a different bass, or you can run an effects signal into one, keep the other dry, or you can even jump/bridge the channels like on old Marshall guitar heads. The Baby Bass manual even has a suggested setting for the Portaflexes: Treble = 9:00, Bass = 3:00, Volume as needed.
The bridge is 4 1/8" at it's tallest, 3 3/8" at it's widest, and 1/8" thick (main part), and the round "feet" are 12mm in diameter. The measurement in the pic looks a little off but that's just because of the perspective. This is the view of the bridge that would be GDAE, L-R
Great! What are the measurements for the string spacing on the bridge? You can make your own bridge you know. Funny how you used a cello bridge. Accordingly, Everett Hull wanted the ABB to be the size of a cello.
Use the top form of the aluminum bridge and string spacing as the foundation for a new bridge. When making a wood bridge, cut it down in size to the height which is most comfortable for you. Years ago I was told that the bridge matches and conforms to the fingerboard curve.
Another suggestion, remove all the stings and remove the allen bolt in the back of the body. At this point the neck should wiggle back and forth. Again, use this as a way of measuring how high you want the bridge to be. Push the neck back, (be gentle!), and measure the distance from the body to the top surface of the fretboard. This would be the max height of the bridge. Now you can drive the aluminum pin on the neck out and remove the neck.
Inspect it. Make sure were the allen bolt pushes up against is'nt bare wood. There should be a small aluminum penny shaped object that is nailed into the bottom of the neck's tail. Probably worn a little but should'nt be a problem.
Use the top form of the aluminum bridge and string spacing as the foundation for a new bridge. When making a wood bridge, cut it down in size to the height which is most comfortable for you. Years ago I was told that the bridge matches and conforms to the fingerboard curve.
Another suggestion, remove all the stings and remove the allen bolt in the back of the body. At this point the neck should wiggle back and forth. Again, use this as a way of measuring how high you want the bridge to be. Push the neck back, (be gentle!), and measure the distance from the body to the top surface of the fretboard. This would be the max height of the bridge. Now you can drive the aluminum pin on the neck out and remove the neck.
Inspect it. Make sure were the allen bolt pushes up against is'nt bare wood. There should be a small aluminum penny shaped object that is nailed into the bottom of the neck's tail. Probably worn a little but should'nt be a problem.
