I did it once - not a BagEnd. I will likely never do it again. Far too much work.
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Nice. Obviously that hasn’t been my experience at all. I think I’ll try your way next time instead!Bag End uses water based glue. I took everything including the speaker off the box and used a steamer to remove the carpet. Then washed the remaining adhesive off. Maybe some light sanding? It wasn't difficult. Anyway, I took it to a pickup bed liner shop and had it sprayed. They masked the baffle board. It's way better than new.
My cab was the 2x10. I've replaced it with a Barefaced Super Compact.
So, no on this?I know of a guy that took part of a finger off on his left hand trying to remove rat fur from a PA cabinet. That ended up being an expensive project, especially since he couldn't play bass for over a year while the graft was healing. The finger never really worked right after that either. The scraper broke and ran into his other hand.
Pretty much what this post says,ive done two eden cabs and it was a task.I was a body man/painter so it wasnt a surprise to me but it wasnt simple either.After sanding i skim coated with topcoat (bondo) as it had many staple holes,resanded and gave it a double coat of catalysed bed linder out of a body shutz gun,turned out great and is durable as all get out.I have removed the rat fur from a few of these cabs over the years and it’s not a job for the weak of will. Believe me, Bag End uses the best stuff you’ll find and the job can be difficult. Here’s what I have learned so far;
Have a space where you can make a mess, preferably outside/or well-ventilated.
Put down a tarp and get some goggles, industrial gloves and a respirator.
Remove everything down to the empty box. Cut corners at wrap around points with a carpet blade. Use a stripping compound and a heavy duty scraper. ( I found a heat gun to be pretty much useless.) Re-apply as much as you think you need then re-apply more. It’s tough carpet and thicker than you’d think. It’ll take time, make a mess and seem daunting but can be done if you’re determined. After removal I use thinner to clean all residue from the cab. Let dry, then water wash. Use wood filler where needed, let dry. Sand the whole box with 120, finish with 180 grit. Then I use Duratex and let dry, sand 180 and repeat as necessary until I like what I see.
Bag End uses water based glue. I took everything including the speaker off the box and used a steamer to remove the carpet. Then washed the remaining adhesive off. Maybe some light sanding? It wasn't difficult. Anyway, I took it to a pickup bed liner shop and had it sprayed. They masked the baffle board. It's way better than new.
My cab was the 2x10. I've replaced it with a Barefaced Super Compact.
A couple days ago I sliced my finger just cutting up fruit for a fruit salad...

I took it to a Line-X place and thankfully it turned out really well, not too rough. I think they have different colors available now. My choice was black. Cost about a hundred bucks total, with renting the steamer. I already had the scrapers, etc.If you have in mind to use bedliner on the cab, be advised that carrying the cab will be like carrying a giant slab of 40 grit sandpaper. I tried that once and found that sprayed-on bedliner stuff is incredibly abrasive. A softer material like carpet is a much better choice., and if you Google it you'll find plenty of "how to" info.
And note post #20 from @MarshallAC50Stack in which he says that the Bag End carpet uses a water based adhesive. Steaming it off would be much less work than scraping carpet off.
It's a great idea, but the wood underneath isn't oil finished birch!I'm thinking of stripping my cat tattered (long story, not my cat) S15Ds and finishing the bare wood.
Waiting to hear about how bad an idea this is in 3, 2, 1 ....
Man, that is a horror story! And a PA freaking cabinet. There is no justice.I know of a guy that took part of a finger off on his left hand trying to remove rat fur from a PA cabinet. That ended up being an expensive project, especially since he couldn't play bass for over a year while the graft was healing. The finger never really worked right after that either. The scraper broke and ran into his other hand.
The bare wood will likely be pretty trashed looking when you get done stripping.
It's a great idea, but the wood underneath isn't oil finished birch!
No pix, but it's solid, clear plywood. Needs some sort of covering though.I'm hearing that my lack of ambition is really going to pay dividends here.
Plz send nudes. Srsly, I'm dying of curiosity to know what's under that carpet.
Good luck, watch out for your fingers. They are only partially replaceable...This thread is about 2 years old now but it's helped me out big time since I attempted to remove the "Deep Red" carpeting from my 2x10 and 1x15 - both of which what been in storage and are showing signs of mold on the carpeting. I remember seeing a lot of Deep Red cabs in the past that were bare wood and I always wondered why, since the Deep Red carpeting is something I've always liked the look of. Now I know. I tried a heat gun and chisel today but the carpeting just melt and they must have used all the glue in town when they did my cab because it's about as stubborn as everyone says and the carpet does NOT want to come off. So, I've ordered a steamer and hopefully that'll do the job. I'll pop out the drivers and the jack plate/crossover (2-10XD) and get at it tomorrow. I'll post some pics of the process in hope that all turns out well and the next person can benefit as I have from this thread. Thanks to all who have tread this treacherous path before me and have taken the time to convey their knowledge. More to follow....