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Balance issues on a short top horn bass

Hey guys -
I got an awesome little Japanese medium scale bass today in trade from the classifieds. there are pics of it all over the boards so I'm sure you all have seen it. It plays like a champ and sounds great, but I think I know why it has changed hands a lot lately. It's uncomfortable as heck. The top strap peg is on the top horn and only extends to the 17th fret forcing the whole body way to the left. It makes the medium scale worthless. It feels like it's a mile out there to the nut. It also seems to put a bunch of weight on the shoulder. I know all basses put weight on the shoulder, but the balance is just bad making it seem excessive.

Any suggestions? I don't really want to hang one of those Steinberger Synapse Strap Peg Extender on it, but I'm not sure what else to do -
 
A wide 3-4 inch strap with suede on the bottom to grip your shirt is the first step to take. Next, if necessary you can put an extension on the upper horn strap button, maybe 2" long.

I have a 4 inch strap on it, with a rubberized shoulder pad.
neck dive isn't a problem - the width of the strap isn't really going to do anything. it just hangs weird. All the strap peg extensions I have found during searches seem to be no longer available except that Steinberger Synapse Strap Peg Extender and I really don't want to drill holes in the back of the bass
 
Here is the best way I can think of to describe it -

Take your favorite bass and put it on. The 12th fret is usually in line with the left side of your body. Now, take your right hand, and place it beside the bridge side strap button. Push the bass left until the 17th fret is in line with the left side of your body. Now take your right hand and try to reach first position.
 
It's just one of those things that Leo got right the first time. Having short arms, I need all the help I can get, and strap hanger at 12th fret like TC said just works. On short scales there's more wiggle room. I have a full scale with a medium length top horn at the 14th fret, It gets by, but I feel the difference. I'd be in misery with a Tbird or an Iceman,ergonomics of traditional design just can't be beat IMO, for comfort and balance.
 
I felt the same way with a regular scale T-bird. This took care of the problem.

2376174894_2642643d58_m.jpg


I made mine removable with a strap lock system, however you could do reletively the same with just a piece of flatstock and three drilled holes.

H
 
I felt the same way with a regular scale T-bird. This took care of the problem.

2376174894_2642643d58_m.jpg


I made mine removable with a strap lock system, however you could do reletively the same with just a piece of flatstock and three drilled holes.

H

can you get me a close up pic of how you attached the strap to that? this pic looks like you have a bungi cord stuck in it. that looks like it might work
 
Ill look for some more pics. However it is a leather strap with a carribeaner on it. The other end of the strap had a typical schaller strap lock. I used some dunlop straplocks on it to make it removeable. I wouldn't do the removeable part again, as I'm a very large fella and they rubbed on my gut. The setup did work however and moved the bass more to the right makeing lower fret access much easier.

H
 
here is how it looked from the front. Sorry I don't have any other pictures.

2375339319_4f361aa07b.jpg


I'm looking for another t-bird to do it with now.

H

If I can make one suggestion I'd say that you should put something like the nut and washer on the regular straplocks where the keychain thingy connects to the strap. As it is, the strap could get worn down and break off the hook. The nut and washer would make it more secure.

Also maybe make sure you're using the right size clip. That's a pretty small one you've got there. With today's cheap Chinese steel I wouldn't trust it.
 
If I can make one suggestion I'd say that you should put something like the nut and washer on the regular straplocks where the keychain thingy connects to the strap. As it is, the strap could get worn down and break off the hook. The nut and washer would make it more secure.

Also maybe make sure you're using the right size clip. That's a pretty small one you've got there. With today's cheap Chinese steel I wouldn't trust it.

I respect your opinion but if that nine pound bass rips through that leather strap and that carribeaner that will hold 20 lbs snaps I'm just plain screwed. Also putting the carribeaner through a nut and washer will do nothing to keep it from ripping through. Just adds hardware.

H

This system has been rocked pretty hard for two years. Works good.
 
On my DiPinto Belvedere, I made something like Ric5's extension. I drilled a hole through a dowel rod, which I painted black to match the body, and used a long screw to provide about two inches of extension. It worked well and looked pretty good, but I sold the bass anyway. I think HEADLE's solution is brilliant, and would try that next time.
 
I had a couple different variations. That one was the only one that only took twenty minutes and a drill. The last one I did was a piece of 1/8" flat steel 3/4 of an inch wide, about 11-13" long. I rounded the edges on my grinder and painted it with satin wrinkle black paint. It only makes the screws come out slightly and if you were really concerned you could pick up some longer screws while you get your steel. Now for the disclaimer. This particular version was my idea but totally based on a device you used to be able to buy for G&L asats. It was a replacement neck plate that had the extension built into it. Very cool. This was my way of being thrifty and still getting what I wanted. Thanks for the props guys,wish I still had a bird to do it again. Guess I'm gonna have to sell my Aerodyne and get another. :)

H
 
I felt the same way with a regular scale T-bird. This took care of the problem.

2376174894_2642643d58_m.jpg


I made mine removable with a strap lock system, however you could do reletively the same with just a piece of flatstock and three drilled holes.

H

Another of Rick Turner's inventions I believe, he calls it a "Dingus." I believe he developed the design for his Ren basses, which are spectacular BTW...