Thanks Jon, I was about ready to buy the 1/4" but, read some reviews about people breaking them, but maybe they beat on them. "I used it to hog out ebony and it broke! It's crap!"
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I've been using it on purpleheart and maple; no issues. I looked at some guidance from Amana about using the min speed on the router etc. I suspect a lot of the negative reviews come from misuse.Thanks Jon, I was about ready to buy the 1/4" but, read some reviews about people breaking them, but maybe they beat on them. "I used it to hog out ebony and it broke! It's crap!"
Ok... get this board coated so we can move on to the other fun mods this bass is getting.
But first...
Time to geek out (again) about my favorite materials for this process.
I like CA. Have no aversion to the odor at all. It's just a little spicy... turn on a fan... problem solved. The odor of any epoxy however literally makes me wanna hurl. So there ya go.
Q: What kind of tape do you use with CA to isolate the board & mask off the neck so you don't have spoogey dripping crusty hell everywhere?
Well... any kind will "work"... but good luck getting it off!.
CA kinda soaks in to masking tape and when you try to peel it off... it breaks into shards of torture.
(Think bamboo shoots under the fingernails).
Also... masking tape doesn't leave a crisp line at the edges.
This stuff though?... High temp polyethylene terephthalate (PET) w/silicon adhesive. Typically used for powder coat masking. ...works a treat.
CA does not soak in... it barely sticks to it at all.
Pulls off clean ... crisp lines... so good.
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Here's a link.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCMDVXD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_B4J0XVJT8CEY5QKCZJ46
I'm also geeking out on these fantastic towels for application.
I used to use blue shop towels (roll). They work well. These work way better. No lint whatsoever. And there's something about their composition that doesn't immediately smoke the CA ...like kitchen paper towel does.
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Can't have enough light for this... the patient is ready.
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Seriously though... these rags!!!And this CA!
View attachment 4237557They allow an application almost like wipe on poly.
....you don't have to be as quick with the wipe before flashing... more control.
I used up about 3 oz on this board. A lot of that soaked into the rags... but I got a very healthy build on the board too.
.... level, level.... polish, polish... cut & rub...
Done.
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This piece of ebony has a couple of natural gray "ashy" streaks ... at first I thought they were deep scratches that I buried... but no... there's also some reddish brown in there. It's all good.
...Actually one of the better coating jobs I've done... if I do say.
I use sandpaper stuck to a leveling beam with spray adhesive.How do you level sand and polish the fingerboard after CA application?

Right? ... & Now... with the new ebony board?Hopefully the new truss rod will never be called upon to bend the neck of iron!


Personally, I hate it when the poop gets hairy. That's when I put on the bunny suit and double rubber gloves, and grab the heavy tools.
Strangely ...this bass changed hands again during the mod process.New owner, or the same guy Born Again Fretless?
I have a favor to ask, full length shot of the back of the body? I am shamelessly stealing that heel carve detail for my Hossenfeffer III Fauxlembic build. I only steal from the Best.
Do you start carving the heel and body before the wings are glued on, or after?I think this is how Alembic does it... as far as I can tell from pictures. I stole it from them.
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I did both. I carved some of it before, after a lot of measuring to know where the wings would "live", sort of a "rough carve". Then I finalized it after. I don't think you could ever do it without the wings in place for how I did mine. But @Rôckhewer's may be different.Oh yesss.....this is why I love neck-through....
Do you start carving the heel and body before the wings are glued on, or after?
That requires some next level precision and planning. That lined up perfectly.Yeah both... this is how it looked right after the wings were glued up...and I level sanded the back of the neck beam flush with the wings.
It just needed some minor blending and rounding from here.
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