Any reason that couldnt be used to cut fret slots too? Bit too fragile maybe. All Hail Sir Nutsalot! Will the remainder beyond the nut get "scalloped" like a Fender board, tapering down to meet the headstock?
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No. I designed it to cut a 3/16" slot with an 1/8" bit. Two passes per depth stepped pass. Climb cut both cuts.Any reason that couldnt be used to cut fret slots too? Bit too fragile maybe. All Hail Sir Nutsalot! Will the remainder beyond the nut get "scalloped" like a Fender board, tapering down to meet the headstock?
Yes.Will the remainder beyond the nut get "scalloped" like a Fender board, tapering down to meet the headstock?
Indeed.All Hail Sir Nutsalot!


Yeah, Sir Nutsalot sounds a little too pr0n for the suits upstairs.The marketing department in me wants it to be Sir Slotsanut
I love reliable jigs, fixtures and templates...simply divine![]()
Yeah, might as well call it Ron.Yeah, Sir Nutsalot sounds a little too pr0n for the suits upstairs.
As in Jeremy.Yeah, might as well call it Ron.




I'm sure somebody's done it before me.Are the maple shavings and CA a new trick, or old?
How'd it work out?
Is that an ebony board? Did you stain it, or is that natural?
Aye... there's the rub. I didn't do that for a couple reasons... but I'm sure it's possible.to make a jig for a finished neck that will allow me to route it off perfectly level without removing even a 1000th of the neck or hitting the truss rod.
It's ebony... not stained. And it's currently raw and only sanded to 100 grit... so it's still kinda "ashy".Is that an ebony board? Did you stain it, or is that natural?
And did you make it thicker than the first board? (Basically the height of the frets on the first board?)
Fantastic! That's the Rock we know and love![]()
Thanks ...good to be back.