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Double Bass bass information
- Thread starter nickbass
- Start date
The hump heading into the neck-joint is the primary tip. Closer-up, note that the end of the side heads straight into the butt of the neck instead of curving up along the side of a neck-block. Also note no ebony filler-strip where that curving-up would be occurring. General age factors and the obvious repair to the back at the neck-joint seal the deal.
I had the same question as Fran but was afraid to ask 
Thanks for the info. But since it's on my mind and if it's not too silly of a question, Where does the "wonder" come from? It sounds kind of derogatory. Does it mean it is really wonderful, or does it mean that it's a wonder it stays glued together? Or. . . perhaps it's the name of the maker of the bass?
Thanks for the info. But since it's on my mind and if it's not too silly of a question, Where does the "wonder" come from? It sounds kind of derogatory. Does it mean it is really wonderful, or does it mean that it's a wonder it stays glued together? Or. . . perhaps it's the name of the maker of the bass?
Thanks everyone - keep talking - I'm learning! I think the 'wonder' is meant to be mildly derogatory, but this is actually a nice sounding bass, even though it's got a large buzzy crack on the front. I'm weighing up what would be involved in repair, and what sort of quality I could hope for eventually…
Nick
Nick
The problem with them from what I know is the way the neck is installed. It doesn't go into a block as Sam pointed out, which makes for a less solid connection and more prone to major damage in an accident. Many also have shallow overstands which can only be corrected, I believe, with a neck set into a block. It's costly to add a block and refit the neck.
They are usually bought for cheap prices if they are still blockless. If they are fixed, they generally go for up to $9,000.
I'd stay away if it is still blockless and the luthier says that it will be quite a bit of money to change that.
I'd stay away if it is still blockless and the luthier says that it will be quite a bit of money to change that.
Right.
If the sides are set into a slot on the butt of the neck then a sharp blow to that area is likely snap the side at or near the slot. In contrast, if it's a regular dovetail neckblock, a sharp blow might "only" break the side loose from the block.
If you want to change the neck angle or overstand on a blockless bass, you have to open the bass, remove the sides from the neck-slots, fill the neck slots, re-cut the neck slots and reassemble. (You would never do that -- you'd just install a neck block instead.) In contrast, on a dovetail neckblock, you remove the neck, "only" adjust the dovetail and reassemble. Because you don't have to open the bass the job is much "easier" and less costly.
It's costly to open a bass. And once you open it you'd be silly not to do EVERYTHING because you don't want to open it over and over.
And that stuff matters a lot! Proper overstand and neck-angle are critical factors in whether a bass really works up to its potential -- adding that extra 10% of "goodness" that makes a decent bass into a head-turner.
The good news is that yer Blockless Wonder is 75+ years old and craft-built from solid wood. If it goes to a good bass luthier it will come back with a new neck block and a great neck-set. That means it will be stable and sounding noticeably better than before. "It's a question of dollars and sense."
My Olde Tyrolean underwent serious repair after an accident, including a new neck and block. It came back sounding fantastic.
